I've just done similar with a 47kg cylinder. I opted to weld a boss in the bottom as having filled the bottle with water to purge it, I found
the boss for the valve protrudes into the cylinder and trapped water so it would never fully drain.
I see you've put a ball valve on to isolate the cylinder, but do you still have a pressure relief valve? The calor bottles have a 26bar PRV
built into the valve body but as I've junked the original valve body, I've put a 10bar valve in a T to mitigate the risk of explosion in a
fire. The bottle thread is 3/4 BSP should you want to use pipe fittings if you do another one.
How do you find the smell of the air after it's been in the propane bottle? I haven't used my 47kg cylinder in anger yet, but the 19kg one
I did before still had enough stenchant in it to make the air smell bad for quite a while. I chucked some gravel in this big one and rolled it round
the lawn for a bit so I'm hoping it's not quite so pungent.
For others copying this project the thread in the propane tank is a standard BSPT thread and it costs only a couple of quid for a BSPT to compression
adaptor from toolstation/screwfix and saves you a lot of machining plus having a larger bore. IIRC 22mm pipe has a higher burst pressure than 15mm.
Also I find thread sealing fluid is more reliable than PTFE tape.
Is the polythene tube connector OK? I can't be arsed googling it but I guess you've done the homework.
In the past I used a similar technique to make a vacuum chamber to suck oil out of dry sump tanks - any other uses for old propane tanks apart from
heaters that is
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
Just to state the obvious and ensure tank has (as in this case) been purged - we had a local chap kill himself a few years back trying to make a bbq
from an oil drum/gas cylnder that exploded when he cut into it.