scutter
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 posted on 1/10/05 at 12:00 PM |
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Crossflow sump parts
Greetings folks, I've just modified a second sump for my engine with a little more capicaty and the sump i got appers to be from a pre-crossflow
engine, alls well except for the fact that the bigends tap the sump(now cleared with a ball pien hammer) and the crank has removed the channel that
lives under the No.2 piston. I've circled the part in the photo(pic taken from Dave J website hope you don't mind)
The question is what is the channel for and can i live without it?
Could do with fiinding out before tomorrow as i'm doing my first long run down to the london boys for breaky.
ATB Dan.
[img][/img]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 01:33 PM |
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Is it a 1300 crossflow sump you are using? believe this can cause a problem if used on a 1600 because of the longer stroke crank . Can't help
with the part you mentioned though. If you need a 1600 sump send me a U2U , have a spare with a dent in the lower section but not a problem if you are
modifing.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 06:51 PM |
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Yep - been there, done that... 
Modified a sump, fitted it, got a fearsome knocking when it ran. It was a 1300 sump on a 1600 block. 
There's no way round it - the channel is designed to hold some oil that gets splashed up into the bores under the pistons. The 1600 sump is
around 1/4" deeper in this area.
I sold my 1300 sump to someone else who needed one, and started again...
David
BTW: no problem with the picture... 
[Edited on 1/10/05 by David Jenkins]
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ernie
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 07:03 PM |
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I baught that sump for 750 race car
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scutter
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 07:24 PM |
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Cheers David, do you think that i'd get away with a 200 mile trip before I mod the original sump? (great site by the way )
ATB Dan.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 1/10/05 at 08:27 PM |
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Dan,
If you mean "keep the original 1600 sump for 200 more miles" then the only worry is hitting it against a speed bump or similar - just keep
your eyes open!
If you mean "keep the 1300 sump..." then the answer is no - you'll be scraping shavings of steel into your oil. It was amazing how
much my 1300 sump got scratched in that area after a couple of minutes of running.
Have fun!
David
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scutter
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 04:36 AM |
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Well the original sump has been modded, only took 3hrs start to finish including fitting, then spent 2hrs trying to find out where all my oil
pressure had gone turnout that the relief valve had stuck open.
Home at 2 in the morning feeling good about today only for the wife to start contractions at 3
ATB Dan.
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 09:17 AM |
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Oh sh*t, sorry to hijack the thread but that would explain the horrid scraping noise I've just found. Same problem, 1300 sump on a 1600 block.
What are the modifications needed on a 1600 sump? and has anyone got a 1600 sump loafing about I could buy.
Was quite chuffed when I got the engine running, till I heard the noise!
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 2/10/05 at 11:47 AM |
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flyingkiwi you have U2U
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 06:28 AM |
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Stupid question time....... Can you remove and fit the sump with the engine still fitted? I've got a sneaking suspiction that the rear bolts on
the sump are hidden by the fly wheel cover.... Any tricks to get around this?
Cheers
Chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 07:15 AM |
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Oh yes... it can be done... but not a pleasant experience...
Here's what I did, after I found out that I had the wrong sump fitted:
Put the front wheels on ramps (the front MUST be 100% safe and supported - you'll be under the engine if it fails!);
Took the weight of the engine with my hoist;
Undid the bolts holding the bellhousing to the engine block;
Wired up the bellhousing so it can't drop after the next stage;
Wiggled the engine forward so there was a gap of about 1" between it and the bellhousing;
Wriggled over the hoist wheels and under the car, and undid all the sump bolts - yes, you are right, there are two that are normally obscured by the
bellhousing;
Swapped the sump, then reversed the whole procedure.
It's an unpleasant, awkward task, with a fair chance of wrenching your back. In fact, it's debateable whether just heaving the engine out
is easier.
Of course, if you have access to an inspection pit or car hoist then life becomes a little more rosy!
David
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 11:14 AM |
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hmmmm, about what I figured out this morning. Might just be easier to whip the engine out.
Cheers for the help
Chris
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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scutter
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 02:52 PM |
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I'd agree with David, ripping out the engine is easier, luckly for me I've not fitted the dustplate .
ATB Dan.
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flyingkiwi
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 05:37 PM |
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its not an issue not fitting the dust plate then? Will look into that too, also thinking of using that bit of titanium I've got loafing in my
shed for a sump guard.....
It Runs!!!!! Bring on the SVA!
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Marcus
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 06:55 PM |
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Had a similar sump problem the day before SVA. Decided to change the oil, but couldn't get the plug to seal. Heaved on it and - yes you've
guessed it - 'twisted' a hole in the sump
I pulled the engine and box apart, removed the sump and welded it up just in time. It's a pig of a job and yes I would probably take the engne
out next time.
Marcus
Marcus
Because kits are for girls!!
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 3/10/05 at 07:37 PM |
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Flyingkiwi you have U2U.
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Locost82
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| posted on 4/10/05 at 05:14 PM |
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The old trick of cutting the dust plate in two (from side to side) allows it to be fitted and removed when the engine and box are about 1/2"
apart, and importantly while still bolted together so they can't fall out.
I no longer fit the dust shield as I need to be able to get to the bottom end as soon as possible. I fit an adapted dust cover plate using just the
two holes at the bottom of the gearbox.
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