Just
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 11:19 AM |
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Type 9 - removing rear oil seal
I bought a pre-built Tiger and the previous owner didn't think replacing the input seal was worth it (or they replaced it with a poor one).
Anyway the result is a completed car with a (very small) oil leak from the rear seal.
Is it a real pain to replace the seal now the car is complete or can I unbolt a UJ somewhere and do it fairly easily?
If not how easy is it to get to the filler point and just top the gearbox up from time to time (the leak is that small and only just after it has been
out)?
[Edited on 29/7/06 by Just]
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Danozeman
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 11:43 AM |
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I take it by input seal you mean the rear seal where the propshaft goes in??
If so u can unbolt the prop from the rear diff and slide it out of the way. Lever the old one out and use a punch to knock the new in. The only cost
a couple of quid so well worth doing as its an arse to fill the box if u havent got a pump.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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Johnmor
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| posted on 22/7/06 at 05:22 PM |
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Had to repllace my oil seal just last week, remove prop and prise out the seal, watch and not damage the housing, i would also use sealer around the
out side of the seal as this is where my problem came from, not the joint between seal and propshaft but the external of the seal housing.
Took about 1hr , no big deal just awkward.
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Just
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| posted on 23/7/06 at 11:50 AM |
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Thanks guys, sounds easy enough then, does oil come out when the prop is out? If so and anyways can I squirt some more in while it is out?
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grusks
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| posted on 23/7/06 at 06:46 PM |
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Jack the back up higher than the front, and none should come out.
Need More Money
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Just
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| posted on 29/7/06 at 11:13 AM |
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I have been hitting the seal from the outside towards the inside with a hammer and a screwdriver. I can only do this on about a third as the tunnel
prevents me from doing it all the way around.
Even so, I can't get a screwdriver between the seal and the casing - is this what I am trying to achieve?
I have slid an old bike tyre-puller between the spindle and the edge of the seal but it won't even budge.
Is the seal meant to be this hard to remove?
[Edited on 30/7/06 by Just]
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Just
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 11:38 AM |
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Can anyone give me any more guidance to getting the old seal out?
Is there a tool somewhere that can be 'wound' to pull the seal out nice and easily?
[Edited on 30/7/06 by Just]
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DIY Si
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 11:43 AM |
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Hope this makes sense, but you're aiming to get a screwdriver or similar tool on the inside of the seal so you lever one edge of it out. Not
sure what type of seal it is, but it may be quite tight and require some effort.
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Just
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 01:16 PM |
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Thanks Si, unfortunately the prop-shaft 'spindle' is in the way to get across the seal with a screwdriver.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 02:49 PM |
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You could try something like a spare spanner. It may have enough curl on the end to reach round the shaft. Or two screwdrivers if you can get them
either side of the spindle.
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Just
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| posted on 31/7/06 at 07:01 PM |
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Got it out in the end - got a very long screwdriver into the groove, and pushed it forward while hanging out of the side of the car - took a few
attempts and a few turns of the screwdriver to keep it straight-ish (that won't be used for screws again that's for sure) and eventually
it popped out. The spring was left behind so good idea to check that has come out with the seal.
Now I have to get the new one in, but a 33mm impact socket should do that!
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DIY Si
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| posted on 31/7/06 at 09:03 PM |
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See, told you a screw driver would do it!
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Just
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 11:47 AM |
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Yep, good call on the screwdriver - in the end the 99p shop furnished me with one long enough and thin enough to get in at it.
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Just
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 05:27 PM |
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Now I can't seem to get the new one in!
I am using a large socket and a decent sized hammer and with a fair amount of swinging, the seal just pivots one way them the other. I can't
get the whole thing to go in level - and with one side in, the others won't budge.
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Just
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 05:27 PM |
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Now I can't seem to get the new one in!
I am using a large socket and a decent sized hammer and with a fair amount of swinging, the seal just pivots one way them the other. I can't
get the whole thing to go in level - and with one side in, the others won't budge.
Do I need to hit it quite hard or should it just tap in evenly?
[Edited on 1/8/06 by Just]
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 05:48 PM |
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Did you get the whole of the old seal out including the metal outer casing? Just wondered as you said the spring came out?
Anyway, if you did, yes the new seal usuall tips up as you try to tap it in, basically get the big socket squarely on it, get it resting gently and
squarely in place on the end of the gearbox, then BATTER it one straight and hard with the hammer!!! not a job to be timid with, but you need to keep
it square as you hit it!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 06:00 PM |
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A smear of grease on the outside of the seal often helps if they are especialy tight.
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Just
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 06:43 PM |
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Thanks, the problem is I can't get a really good swing at it - do I need to get the rear end up quite high perhaps?
The seal just pivots no matter how hard I manage to swing at it, the little rubber edging on the back of the seal is get scuffed off too.
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Just
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| posted on 2/8/06 at 06:44 PM |
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Well, managed to get it in tonight quite easily using a 4lb number one tool!
Put some blue gasket sealant all round the edge too to make sure.
In the end, the lessons I learnt were;
To get it out - get a long thinish screwdriver around the spindle and into the seals inner edge (enough to catch the metal casing of the seal from the
inside). Then swing on it as hard as you can to pop the seal out.
To get it in - a bit of oil or grease on the outside of the case, and the inside ready for the propshaft. Large socket as a drift (34mm Halfords
Impact I used) with an extension bar to help get at it with the hammer and then wack it straight in with a 4lb baby sledge!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/8/06 at 10:50 PM |
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.............well I did say "BATTER it"!
LOL, as long as it stays square and you don't slip a good whack won't hurt it!
well done mate!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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