jeffw
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 05:34 AM |
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Master cylinder rods
Is it possible to shorten the rods out of the master cylinders (I have two seperate MCs)? I'm trying to move the brake pedal further down and
have run out of adjustment.
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whitestu
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 06:51 AM |
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Mine is just made out of some threaded rod, so I should think shortening or making new ones should be pretty easy.
Stu
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foskid
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 07:16 AM |
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Why not just get a die on them to increase the thread length on the existing rods.
Cheers John.
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 07:38 AM |
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my only concern would be side loads on the first piston if the rods were really short which could cause much more wear. Try to get the lever force as
close to the center line of the MS as you can
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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jeffw
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 08:41 AM |
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I was only thinking about reducing the length by 5mm or so. Maybe threading it is the way to go, although the balance bar fitting only has a limited
thread depth. I'll give it a go.
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Peteff
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 09:13 AM |
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Get a bolt something like the length you need and cut the head off, round it off and viola
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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HappyFather
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 10:37 AM |
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I have done it, if I understood correctly what you're asking. If I hadn't done it, the brake peddle would tilt towards my feet.
I didn't use the proper tools, but my blog post from that day shows what I have cut of, if it may be of any help.
http://happyblade.blogspot.com/2010/09/brakes-and-lhd-specificities.html
Have fun!
HappyFather
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 4/4/11 at 11:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jeffw
I was only thinking about reducing the length by 5mm or so. Maybe threading it is the way to go, although the balance bar fitting only has a limited
thread depth. I'll give it a go.
I've done it on my pedal box install in an RX7. If I didn't shorten them then the pedal is sat too high. Try to retain the supplied rod as
it's got a dome shaped end in the MC which spreads the load to the back of the piston and keeps the rod in the MC!
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britishtrident
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| posted on 5/4/11 at 07:10 AM |
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A few caveats.
(1) The pedal angle of the pedal and line of action of the pushrod should be carefully considered.
(2) Best not to thread the whole length of the rod -- it greatly weakens it in compression.
(3) If making a new pushrod the mushroom end must allow the piston in the master cylinder to come fully back --- even 0.5mm can lead to brakes
binding on due to hydraulic locwhen the fluid expands due to heat.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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