Fishface
|
| posted on 23/4/13 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
zetec timing - no marks
Help!!!!
Im trying to set up my nodiz electronic ignition and it has a cool feature where you can do a basic set up with the timing by pressing the buttons on
it. However ive just realised i dont have any markings on my zetec 
How can i set it up??????
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
big-vee-twin
|
| posted on 23/4/13 at 03:43 PM |
|
|
I was looking at this for my Duratec.
I was going to stick onto the crank pulley a timing disc showing the angles, by downloading one and printing onto sticky paper.
Set engine to TDC on No 1 and then make a pointer to point at the disc at TDC mark with coat hanger wire etc.
You can then run the engine and use a timing gun to view the angle read off the wheel.
Duratec Engine is fitted, MS2 Extra V3 is assembled and tested, engine running, car now built. IVA passed 26/02/2016
http://www.triangleltd.com
|
|
|
Fishface
|
| posted on 23/4/13 at 05:20 PM |
|
|
Sounds good. How do you know when it's at TDC?
|
|
|
dave_424
|
| posted on 23/4/13 at 05:34 PM |
|
|
You can make a dead stop for your number 1 piston from an old spark plug.
Tap out a spark plug and thread in a bolt enough so that it contacts the piston near TDC, have a crank degree wheel on your crank and rotate the crank
clockwise until the piston hits your bolt stop, note down the number on the crank degree wheel. Rotate the crank the crank anticlockwise until it hits
the stop again, note down the number on the crank degree wheel.
Half way between these numbers is where TDC is, set a pointer at that number. Rotate the degree wheel (Not crank) until the TDC mark lines up with the
pointer and tighten the degree wheel to the crank.
Or if your pointer is within a bendable distance of the TDC marker, bend it to suit, or put the pointer in a different location for it to point to
TDC
The same can be done with the head off and a dial indicator on piston 1 in a similar fashion.
|
|
|
redturner
|
| posted on 25/4/13 at 05:27 PM |
|
|
You might find it more useful and accurate if instead of having a solid stop you have a rod which will touch the piston , say halfway up, then a
controlled rotation until piston is almost at TDC, then put a dial gauge on the rod and you can find absolute tdc without any lag...
|
|
|
Fishface
|
| posted on 7/5/13 at 01:00 PM |
|
|
thanks. I tried at the weekend with a dial guage and a steel rod and it worked a treat. Still couldnt get engine to run well. I was just wondering if
i hadnt actually got the TDC. I marked it at the top of the stroke but then i thought on a four stroke it raises twice???? Have i marked it on the
intake or exit? How can I check. It does tickover ok so maybe its just the bike carb balance that makes it sound so rough?
|
|
|
redturner
|
| posted on 7/5/13 at 01:13 PM |
|
|
If you have used the rod and DTI to get rid of the dwell ,that's fine. Check cam's can be locked in this position with the slots at the
rear and the timing will be right. However as you say, it does run so I would suggest that the carb's could be out. If you are using the Ford
Eddis unit, and as I am, Megajolt then make sure that it isn't in limp mode. We got one wire wrong on the Eddis and it wouldn't rev. The
R1 carbs were fitted fitted with Weber 180 jets at the outset and air corrections are plugged and re drilled. It now revs to just shy of 7k and it
flies....
|
|
|
