kingr
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| posted on 25/10/02 at 01:45 PM |
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Hi Findlay,
Sorry to take so long to reply. If I remember correctly, the best quote I got was from Adrian Flux, which is particularly amusing since they gave me
an absolutely appaling quote on my dub only a few months ago.
Willie - I was aware that insurance in Ireland is an absolute pig, I seem to remember Citroen did a similar offer of several years insurance "free"
with their saxo, which resulted in them selling like hot cakes in Ireland. Sadly there's not a lot that you can do about expensive insurance, if
it's expensive then it's expensive, simple as that, kit cars should be cheaper than normal cars though, even if they're still expensive in
comparison to English prices.
Kingr
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Vaux2.0L
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| posted on 11/11/02 at 12:57 PM |
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I've been thinking a lot about insurance (being 17 and building a 2.0 vaux locost). I also have a 998 mini (£400 FC, cheap as chips), If i'm insured
fully comp on the mini then i can drive any other car 3rd party, so i get my dad to insure the locost in his name (i.e. full no claims, over 25 etc.
etc.) and pay him however much it costs, then i can drive it under 3rd party. I might let him have a go for a discount on the insurance too!
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JohnFol
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| posted on 11/11/02 at 03:25 PM |
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Isn't there the catch that you can't be the owner? You'd have to register the car in his name as well.
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Vaux2.0L
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| posted on 11/11/02 at 03:46 PM |
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not necesarily, my mini is in my dads name but im insured fully comp on that.
IAN
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Cousin Cleotis
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| posted on 11/11/02 at 08:03 PM |
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Vaux, £400 FC on for a mini seems cheap, is the insurance in your name? i am 17 and have had a quote for a 993cc nova for £1800 without pass plus and
£1100 with pass plus.
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Vaux2.0L
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| posted on 11/11/02 at 11:42 PM |
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yeah but its a nova and they have a reputation! Whos it with? a lot of companies quoted about £900 to £1000 for my car but Norwich Union were just
over £400.
If its still high get one of your parents to insure it and put you on as a named driver, far cheaper.
IAN
[Edited on 11/11/02 by Vaux2.0L]
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kingr
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| posted on 12/11/02 at 11:34 AM |
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It's not always the case that you're allowed to drive anything 3rd party if you're fully comp on another, you'd have to check with your insurer.
Basically outside of actually insuring you on your car, it's up to them, and I would suspect given the price of the quote, you wouldn't get that
option. Less money = less flexibility is generally the rule. Secondly, you're heading for rather murky legal water doing what you propose, insurance
companies have the rather nasty habbit of happily taking your money under the appearance that you're being insured until you make a claim, at which
point, they "discover" that perhaps you haven't been entirely truthful about how you're representing yourself and boom you're so deeply in
trouble you don't know which way is up. You can go to prison for driving a car without insurance.
The place where they would get you would be that (in my understanding) the primary driver is the person who does the most driving. This clearly would
not be the case.
Could be I'm wrong, and all this is perfectly legit, it is a rather complicated situation with different people being owner/insurer/driver.
I know I wouldn't mess around with insurance.
Kingr
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Vaux2.0L
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| posted on 12/11/02 at 12:33 PM |
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Fair comment, my insurer does let me drive other cars 3rd party I've already checked. I think it mite be so cheap cos everything in my Family is
Insured with the same company, even my Grandads properties. We might get sum special deal.
IAN
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mathew
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| posted on 17/12/02 at 08:00 PM |
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Hi
Ive been a bit slow replying but i need some help and pointers. How much would the insurers do me for with a blade engined locost at 17 and newly
passed driving licence
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Findlay234
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| posted on 18/12/02 at 11:20 AM |
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seriously, you can never tell.just ring around.... no more than 1000. better than all your mates driving round in 1.1 fiestas.
cheers
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bob
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| posted on 18/12/02 at 04:18 PM |
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I just got my first off the cuff quote form adrian flux,MK indy 2 litre 3000 miles a year fully comp at £185.
I reckon i can get this down a bit with flux or by shopping around,i was hoping for £150 tops so its looking good
[Edited on 18/12/02 by bob]
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 18/12/02 at 07:37 PM |
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Sorry bob but mi eyes have just gone all misty on me. price aint toooo bad i suppose.
back in1980 I asked for a quote on my Mk1 cortina, just turned 21 'n' told everything Id done to it. he went out the back did some figures then came
in and said £325 Fully comp me the ONLY driver, I thought steep but not bad,
The he said " A QUARTER"
Nuff said I thought made my excuses as you do & left
(payin £400pa tpft for doggy old sierra at mo, must start buildin)
[Edited on 18/12/02 by jollygreengiant]
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thetankwad
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| posted on 19/12/02 at 03:03 PM |
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Jammie bastards the lot of you. I tried one company and nearly died. Cheeky swines quoted 1790 quid for a MINI! That was direct line though. Dread to
think what a 1400 turbo locost might cost... tried Adrian Flux, but im still awaiting the reply...
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Findlay234
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| posted on 19/12/02 at 04:19 PM |
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worst quote i got for 1600 16v locost was £750. and im only 19 with no no claims.
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johnston
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| posted on 24/12/02 at 07:47 PM |
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quote:
insurance companies have the rather nasty habbit of happily taking your money under the appearance that you're being insured until you make a
claim
yeah they even have on my certifacite i can drive other cars but yet i was told you cant drive any other cars cos ur under 25
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 29/12/02 at 01:12 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bob
I just got my first off the cuff quote form adrian flux,MK indy 2 litre 3000 miles a year fully comp at £185.
Just a quick question, but is there any point in getting Fully Comp insurance on a car you built yourself?
/me waits for the obvious replies 
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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johnston
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| posted on 29/12/02 at 07:48 PM |
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well they could take the veiw that the book says "for £250" and to get a pro to fix anything ie the insurance approved bodyshops would prob cost
more than 250 theyll prob right the thing off
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StuartA
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| posted on 27/1/03 at 06:59 PM |
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quote:
Just a quick question, but is there any point in getting Fully Comp insurance on a car you built yourself?
Ummmm, hit a fast moving tree and if you walk away is the tree gonna pay for the damage?
The way I understand it Fully Comp means that the insurance company will pay out even if the accident doesn't involve a third party. Just because you
built the car in the first place doesn't mean you can afford to rebuild it.
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Findlay234
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| posted on 27/1/03 at 07:49 PM |
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yes,stuart, that is true but as johnston said, if the claim made is more than the car is worth then they will write the car off.
an example..... i drive a fiat tipo at the mo. the interior is velour and in tip top condition, the bodywork is in perfect condition(the chassis was
galvanised in the factory like all cars should be) no rust at all. the car runs like a dream etc etc etc...... but by the parkers car price guide its
only worth about £500, no where near its value as a good car to us, but if we were to have damage done to the car more than 500 then the insurance
company will write it off. its cheaper for them to give us the £500 than to pay £600 for the damage repair.
cheers
fin
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 27/1/03 at 10:25 PM |
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Its a little more complicated than that. There a 4 categories of BER (beyond economic repair)vehicles, A,B,C&D.
a, This is a total loss (T/L) with no salvage value, typically a burn out. The salvage companies are contracted to remove these fre of charge and
store them until cleared for disposal (ie the owner gets the dosh and signs the car to the insurance company)
b, a vehicle which is sufficiently damaged that it must never go back on the road, salvage value usually about 5% of retail
c, significant damage but not repaired cos the cost exceed the value, salvage pay typically 15-17.5% of retail
d, constructive total loss, usually a stolen recovered where the total repair cost are unknown (engine faults 600 miles later may be blamed on the way
the car was driven whilst joy ridden), or any damage on an older car which exceeds the value but do not relate to any safety issue whilst being driven
on the road eg a dented door on an '87 metro, repair costs £400, vehicle value 30p. salvage have to pay 20% of retail.
your Fiat Tipo worth a retail of £500 would get salvage of £100, less admin cost of the repair (£50) means any repair costing more than £350 woulf
write it off as a category D.
Also any car with a retail of less than £2000 will not be recorded as a total loss on the HPI system, and will only carry a PNC warning on the V5
(police national computer)
If a locost were to be damaged, because the retail value would be a little vague (look in Glass's guide under L for locost!!), and the salvage value
would be nil to a salvage agent., the insurance company would rather repair, pay you a CIL (cash in lieu) rather than write it off. I have heard there
is a bit of a market developing for T/L kit cars which can be rebuilt without using any of the original parts (work that one out for yourselves!!) to
avoid the SVA.
If any locost owner has an accident, drop me a line, before you negotiate wilth an insurance assessor (this is short for crafty devious .... ), who
may leave you in a less than perfect position. Remember your insurance should leave you in the same financial position as you were BEFORE the
accident.
Hope it never happens
Mark
PS Dealing with all this boring poo 50 hours a week pays for my locost build!!
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Findlay234
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| posted on 28/1/03 at 09:12 AM |
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cheers for clearing that up.
all i was trying to say was that the situation was bad............. but its actually even worse than what i thought. ouch. my poor poor tipo. the last
accident to happen to it (i think it was last year BTW) was 400 damage, the whole fibreglass tailgate was damaged. The guy who went into the back of
me paid up himself, it was he who didnt want the insurance involved, i look back now and im glad he did.
cheers
fin
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 28/1/03 at 07:11 PM |
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Fin,
Its even worse than that, out of the £500 payout, they would also deduct your excess, usually £120 now, but they do let you cash in the unused part of
your Road Fund Licence!!
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 28/1/03 at 07:34 PM |
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The best one is when the insurance company asks you for the value of thew vehicle so that they can work out the value of the insurance premium on a
fully comp insurance. ( T reg 3.5 sd1, 5 year old vehicle, then) Car gets stolen 1 week after fitting £260 jvc stereo (receipt to proove) and 5 new
tyres (£350 had receipt) also had my tools in the boot about a grands worth, and the car was worth on the street £1500.
Insurance company offer £500. reason "we only pay out on bottom book value".
"so why did you ask me the value of the vehicle." I said.
"so that we can calculate the value of the premium."
"so pay me the value of the vehicle then"
"Sorry but we only pay out bottom book value."
And Round ANd round AND...................
Wont use Bishopsgate now on principal.
5 months after settling the car turned up. But thats another story.
Enjoy.
Don't like Norwich Union either for similar reasons. (agreed Value Classic policy, they didn't pay out & it wern't even my fault)
[Edited on 28/1/03 by jollygreengiant]
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 28/1/03 at 08:47 PM |
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They are legally obliged to pay "current market value", but it is up to you to PROVE what the current market value is!
A good tip is to take advantage of their tightfistedness. If they think that the cost of settling the claim will be greater than the difference
between what you have been offered and what you want, they will settle higher, but remember, they are skilled negotitors and use time (letters going
back and forth) to wear you down.
1, Get adverts out of autotrader, freeads, ebay, local paper to back up your value.
2, Get the garage where you get the car serviced to vouch for its condition (or your mate the mechanic to lie)
3, Hire a local independant assessor to fight your case, the usually cast £50 a go, but insurance companies usually buckle very quickly when they get
involved, because you can also claim back the costs if he proves them wrong
4, Dont lose your temper over the phone, they do psycological profiling and and angry policyholder is usually close to settling (end of tether) and
they will just clam up and dig their heels in, knowing you will settle shortly.
5, Always get the names of claims handlers BEFORE you start a conversation, and try and record the conversation if possible, the initial calls are
taken by juniors, and they can and do say the most stupid things at times, which can be VERY useful later on in the proceedings
6, Talk to me before you claim, I can point out the potential potholes before you fall in them. Knowing what to say is important, but not as important
as what NOT to say!
Hope my advice will not be needed, but if it is............
Mark
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auzziejim
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| posted on 28/1/03 at 09:15 PM |
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mark you seem very wise on the insurance side of things! in fact you are just like my dad who was in the insurance game for 35 years before this sept
decideing he was going back to uni to allow him to earn big bucks as a claims investigator! however you have said almost everything my dad has ever
told me about insurance companys so i just want to tell everybody here that this guy knows what he is on about and he speaks the truth about those
b@stard insurance companys!!!
if anybody has any insurance worrys and cant get hold of mark then just ask me and i will get my dad to help out
James
Talking crap is my speciality btw!!!
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