Hi there, this is my first post here, my name is Mike. I saw a small article in Car&Driver magazine today at the place I was getting my oil changed about the book by Ron Champion called "Build Your Own Sports Car for 250" and was immediately interested.

Right now we have a 68 Chevy Camaro SS in the garge being restored, body painted, interior completely redone, waiting for the 350 to arrive from my uncle's place so we can put that plus the Muncie in and get it rollin'. Really exciting. The we have a 65 Ford Mustang coupe to do, it's in really bad shape though so I'm thinking we'll have quite a bit of time in between these two cars to do a Locost.

I did some research, and found out that there are variants on the different styles of Locosts, as well as different donors to choose from. I really want to do this as I've always wanted to do a Shelby A/C Cobra kit car but never got around to scrounging up the cash for such a vehicle. This seems like a really good alternative, and it's not bad looking either!

I have two styles in mind, that I want to blend. Here are two pictures that I'm using for reference:



and



The second picture is what I want the overall exterior to look like. I want the seats in the style of the first one, as well as the exhaust (can't see the exhaust on the second picture). I'm wondering if anyone knows where I can find specific info on the second car, like who made it, if there's a page somewhere dedicated to it, where I can find the mirrors and headlights used on it, etc. Also, the first picture, where the seats came from. I know the first pic is from MK Engineering in the UK, so I'm sure I could e-mail him.

Moving on...I'm in the United States, Texas to be exact. What kind of donor car should I look for? I want my car to be a daily driver, but still have great performance if I want to goof around or show off or anything. I'm a speed demon at heart, but a law abiding citizen on the outside, haha, so I have my moments every now and then.

Also, what is the general cost to do one of these? How much is it typically to have someone weld the frame together for you? That's the only thing I can't do, is weld. Everything else, peice of cake, we have tons of tools for putting together cars, we've done quite a few here in the garage.

Wow, that's a long post, haha. Hope to get one started and join the ranks here soon

~006

Welcome.................

1) I'm sure a builder from your side of the duck pond will be along to advise on a typical donor for you too build around.

2) In the UK an "book" car can be built from 1-2 Ģk too a good standard, there is no upper limit really its down too sourcing parts and what parts used.
Most people over here would either build and weld there own chassis or buy a chassis already built, it wouldn't really be cost effective too cut the steel yourself then have it welded as a built chassis is pretty cheap over here anyway.
There of plenty of very nice looking cars over here built by builders whom like you couldn't weld, they can now.

All a bit vague maybe answer wise but your on your way with a little food for thought.

cheers J.

"properties" on the second pic says it's a Dax 7. Try www.daxcars.co.uk.

Best of luck

I'll try to answer several questions.

I can't do electric welding due to a pacemaker/defibulator. With several projects I have had someone come over to my shop to do the welding, I have a fairly large Lincoln stick/TIG/MIG welder, and now the 7 and have generally paid them $10 hr.

My build is a bit OTT basically Fox based with a little MN12, Explorer, F150, and Cobra thrown in for good measure. The basic specs are roller 392(351), T5, MII front, 8.8 IRS rear, Cobra brake system, 95 R 17s 9" front and 10.5 rear using 25540 and 315 35. It will have power steering, hydro boost (possibly ABS), cruise control (ticket avoidance), a hart top (eventually, and Air. The chassis will be based on a 96" wb and probably +6 width. Shooting for about 1600 lb.

A probably more reasonable car could be built using the MN12 Tbird Super Coupe and nearly everything should be able to be taken from the same donor car which with a bit of looking should be able to find around $500 and you should be able to Ebay some of the leftovers. The SC has a blown steel block alloy head V6, T5, 8.8 IRS, 4WDB, and you can find nice wheels for reasonable. If you drive in a spirited manner this build should be less likely to get you in jail or dead.


Check out http://locostusa.com/forums/index.php

Their was a recent article in a UK Kit Car magazine about a lotus 7 style manufacturer in the US creating very low weight hi spec seven kits.

If you can find them and utilise your small block chevy experience you should be onto a winner.

Very satisfying if not expensive.

Here is a link on Amazon to a book about buiding a Locost in America using a mazda Miata as a donor. It is a very helpful addition to Ron Champion's book and has a lot of useful contacts for you.
linky

Caber

One of the problems with the book built car is the lack of castor in the top front wishbones.
Do a search here for the solution

That would probably be the Stalker. It uses a 3.8 blower Buick and S10 fruck bits. A car built on the MN12 would be higher spec and much less expensive.

BTW the car I'm building by being frugal/cheap should come in at $3000 by using everything from the MN12 you should be able to do better.

[Edited on 9/7/06 by locostv8]

Was just reading about these in the mag this morning www.wcmultralite.com too.

The second picture is very like the car that Busarush on here has just built (and passed SVA).

Ok....wow! I can't believe all of the help I'm getting already! Thanks a million guys. Ok, so I'm going to basically need to order a DAX kit and frame then?

My main concern is legroom and elbow room. I would like to take my fiance out in this thing every once in a while, but for the most part it'll be my daily driver unless it's raining, in which case I'll need to take my Mini (yes I have a Mini :-P). I'm 5' 11-1/2" tall, and my fiance is 5' 6" tall. She's very fit and skinny and all that, I'm about 275 lbs, and on my frame I'm a bit husky. The Mini isn't all that bad inside, it's surprisingly roomy. I was hoping to find out that I could widen the frame a little in the cockpit area, and make sure the length could be made long enough in it as well so that adjustable seats could be put in. Is this all possible?

Now for donors....like I said, I want something suitable enough for daily driver use, but also has a great deal of performance up it's sleeve. Are there any 4 cyl. cars I should be looking for? Fuel injected or carburated? I would like something that has a turbo, or could have a turbo installed on it.

I will be checking out those USA forums so that I can source parts closer to home and make it easier on myself, but this place has already shown me great welcome, so I'll definitely be frequenting here.

Thanks again guys, I really appreciate it

~006

if a 4 cylinger turbo is what you want, im guessing 200sx turbo isnt a bad place to start. There are loads of these in america arent there? rwd as standard and it has been done before, for ease of installation, plus loads of tuning potential.

Also, what about motorcycle engine powered Locosts? Are they ideal for daily use? What kind of donor should I look for on the engine? It seems really difficult to go that route becuase the transmission stuff is all different....However I did catch a video with a Locost powered by a Hayabusa engine, haha, pretty cool stuff.

~006

I was just thinking the same thing about a 200SX. Yes, they are in great abundance over here, and are highly tunable. Woohoo!

~006

i would have to say most becs arent ideal daily drivers - infact, most kit cars arent!! I think that regular town driving would take its toll on a bike clutch, plus to be honest, i think bike engined cars are too fast to drive to the shops etc, my neighbours will be well pissed off with the noise and pretty poor driving. A car engined vehicle will be much easier to drive normally.

Sounds like you want to build a slightly bigger car. I would suggest the McSorely plans are worth a look. I do thinkl you should consider learning to weld once you get into it it is an amazingly theraputic activity. Certainly working on a locst frame is a god place to get practice the material is cheap so if you screw up it is easy to cut out the dud part and weld in a new piece. Check locally for welding classes and get a feel for your preffered technique, I strte with Gas and now am using TIG some people prefer Mig as it is very quick and once your machine is set up it is a fast production process. The frame build will take a while but will allow you to customise to a great extent, once you have read forum posts and other people's build diarys on the web you will get to see how straight forward it is.

Best of Luck!
Caber

id have to agree with caber on the advantages of learning to weld. It does depend on your caracter though, if you know that you tend to give up when stuck, its probably best to buy a chassis. Likewise, if driving is the priority rather than the fun of building it, a manufacturers chassis is probably the way forward.

quote:

---

Originally posted by 006
....However I did catch a video with a Locost powered by a Hayabusa engine, haha, pretty cool stuff.
~006

---

Well, I don't plan on using a motorcycle engine, seems too complicated to make everything work. And since I really don't even feel inclined to sort of feel like I want to learn how to weld, I think I will be going with the Brunton Automotive SuperStalker V6 with the 3800 Pontiac/Buick supercharged engine. Very pricey...but the performance is insane. Hmm...it's double the cost of the regular 3.4L Stalker. I will not be taking this car to the track at all...as I said it'll be a daily driver unless it rains...which is very odd around here. I'm wondering how much performance can really be expected out of the 3.4L Chevy engine...as in, 0-60 times, 1/4 mile times, hp and torque...anyone know?

I just don't want to pull up to a stoplight, and some punk in a Mustang GT that his daddy bought for him to start revving, and then I can't beat him. Especially this being a car that I will be building myself. Would hurt my "ego" and my pride since my car would've been beaten...and I built it. :lol:

Thoughts?

~006

[Edited on 9/7/06 by 006]

Seven type car are not the best drag racers. Problems with grip at lower speeds and drag at higher. You will be quicker than most at the traffic lights but not invincible. On a every day car your options to increase grip are limited so more power will not do much good. Lower weight usually has a better effect.
On a curvy road however......... but I guess they are extinct in the US.

Maybe you should visit Texas...we have lots of open roads around here that will satisfy any driver's desire for twists and turns. I bet you think I'm a cowboy too? Not quite sure why people think there's no countryside left in the states here...maybe you should do some research? No negative intention with my comments.

~006

If you want a slightly bigger car that will take a real V8, then consider the Luego Viento Chassis. The LV350 Chassis is spec'd to take 5.7 Chevvy's and the like, plus its got a bigger cockpit, and will easily accomodate fat buggers like me (19 Stones, and my Son who is 6ft 5" and 20 Stones. We can get in with not bother at all. Whereas a Locost Book size is a bit of a squeeze. (It's not the Locosts fault!!)
It will also take straight 6 BMW's,
Mmm Think what a M series Beamer engine in there would do for you.

I have a Rover v8 (Buick 215) in mine, and ist a super car / set up.
Luego Website

Have a look in my archives and my website for some piccies.

006, I have been in the Super Stalker...it is absolutely mind blowingly quick.

In my opinion it really isn't too expensive because it is really well developed....customer build-up problems and snags are close to zero...speak with anyone who has built one..they will concur.

BTW, yes I do know Dennis Brunton quite well, but I give the Stalker two thumbs way up only because it has earned them.

Isnīt it a bit dangerous?

When i drove my car for the first couple a times i came home/ in the bar with 200beats atleast...

not to scary you in anyway offcourse...

does the fact pace maker makes inductonal noise dangerous like the high current in the welding machines?

anyway Welcome 006!

Tks

quote:

---

Well, I don't plan on using a motorcycle engine, seems too complicated to make everything work. And since I really don't even feel inclined to sort of feel like I want to learn how to weld, I think I will be going with the Brunton Automotive SuperStalker V6 with the 3800 Pontiac/Buick supercharged engine. Very pricey...but the performance is insane. Hmm...it's double the cost of the regular 3.4L Stalker. I will not be taking this car to the track at all...as I said it'll be a daily driver unless it rains...which is very odd around here. I'm wondering how much performance can really be expected out of the 3.4L Chevy engine...as in, 0-60 times, 1/4 mile times, hp and torque...anyone know?

---

quote:

---

Originally posted by tks
Isnīt it a bit dangerous?

When i drove my car for the first couple a times i came home/ in the bar with 200beats atleast...

not to scary you in anyway offcourse...

does the fact pace maker makes inductonal noise dangerous like the high current in the welding machines?

anyway Welcome 006!

Tks

---

Well...the kit itself costs twice as much as the 2.8/3.4L kit...3.4 kit comes out to like $8k and some change, the 3.8 kit for some reason is $16k from Brunton. I will double check the prices and such, and if it is the same amount only + for the engine...I will be going that route then. Thanks guys.

~006

NVM, double checked the priced, I was looking at the wrong thing. The kits are the same price. The difference between the Stalker and the SuperStalker is about $300-600 depending on the engine/trans/diff prices.

~006

I think that you're still a bit off on the price, but I'd call the SS a no-brainer.

FWIW, Dennis is the real deal, Hellofa nice guy and more accesible than one could reasonably ask for. There will be a minor glitch here or there, but well, well worth it. Basically you're putting together a bona-fide supercar for the cost of a used sedan. There's nothing quite like passing Ferraris, Porsches, Lotus', Nobles and the like with a car that you built yourself. It almost feels like cheating

Well, the price is quoted directly from Dennis during a phone conversation we had earlier. He said the difference is just a few hundred dollars (if you play your cards right at the junkyard) and the main thing I should think about instead of price is if I want to go "bloody fast" or "just a little zippy", lol. I think I'm going to go with the SS because I asked him if it was too much to handle, and he said with the supercharger on bypass mode (where it only comes on when you stomp on the gas/push it all the way in, a la a turbo's characteristics) you have a very calm daily driver, with the power basically on tap. Or you can have it just completely on and race, or turn it off altogether. I think that's a winner.

~006

006:

Sounds like you're all set. My car was the black car with the stripe in the article. I live in the DFW metroplex if you have any questions. I just got my car registed.

With you San Antonio weather, you might be able to drive your car quite a bit. Make sure you check on insurance though. I'm finding most policies will not let you drive your se7en as a daily driver.

I've seen a very nice Stalker up close. I'm sure the Stalker guys will know which one I'm talking about. It's a Kansas car and has polished aluminum, countersunk exposed rivets (very nice) and a really odd windscreen. The owner tossed me the keys, but something came up and I didn't get a chance to drive the car. Too bad.

These guys are right. You really don't need too much to make these cars fast.

Honestly, if I were starting a US build, I would purchase a kit in the following order of preference:

Fisher Fury
MK (They are just so inexpensive, even with shipping to the US)
MNR
Coveland in the US

--HTH, Chris