Folks, in the near future i want to paint my chassis. So i need to clear the rust off, i could annoy the neighbours with a weekends angry grinding or it occurred to me i could buy a swimming pool and electrolysis it ......

I'm thinking,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bestway-10ft-Swimming-Pool-with-Electric-Filter-Pump_W0QQitemZ270227847496

collected via long leads for the pump and to the battery charger in the garage (or i did hear about someone using an arc welder).

I'm just thinking set it up Thursday night, run it till a Saturday and then get painting.

Am i being completely daft ????

As soon as i took it out of the water what would i need to do, dry it obviously and then degrease and paint or degrease before the water or ????

What about putting washing up liquid in to degrease??? (that was a joke - i am serious about the rest).

I wouldn't bother. By the time you've set up enough electrodes to cover the whole chassis you could've cleaned half of it off. Angry grinder and a flap wheel will wipe all the rust off in an afternoon. Unless it's knackered/pitted you should just have to walk up and down each side and it'll be done!

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What he said

O

Agreed, flap discs (not grinding wheels) and a couple of seconds for each tube side.

If it's just light surface rust get some metal ready from frost (link) and use that instead. Spray on, keep wet for 20mins wash off with water and use a hot air gun to dry. Perfect surface for paint.

Welding pin holes will let the tubes fill with water
I'm with the others grind it and to hell with the neighbours

if its got light rust on it at least hamerite will stick to it

Water coming out of the tubes will reck what ever your painting on it afterwards.

Wire wheel and flap disc and bugger the neighbours

try with sand stream, the sand remove all the rust, and the seel will looks like new, then you can apply a primer who prevent the rust, after that paint with 2 components (epoxy) is really strong, looks perfect, and is inexpensive, you can apply using a spray pistol. Here in my country (argentina) I use PPG epoxy.


cheers.

It's not that noisy though.

I'm in agreement.

Clean a section then prime it.
When you're ready to clean and prime the next section, overlap the last bit that you did etc, ad nauseum

You'll soon have a fully primed chassis ready for painting.
And I have to say I agree with Mr Sebass on this one. Normal household black gloss will have sufficient flex to be suitable for a chassis.

i must be far too considerate, i do my best to never make noise after 7pm and definately not after 8.

A while ago a neighbour came round to ask for a hand "cause he could hear i was in the garage". I hadn't been "in the garage" for 2 months it was another neighbour making the noise

Oh well, anyone know a good source of flap disks?

(come on, you've got to admit it would have been cool having a whole chassis in a swimming pool de-rusting!)

quote:

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(come on, you've got to admit it would have been cool having a whole chassis in a swimming pool de-rusting!)

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quote:

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Originally posted by MikeR
Oh well, anyone know a good source of flap disks?

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just bought some on ebay (10 for 11 pounds posted)

and of course, never bothered to check the grit ..... just realised i've got 40

AAARrrggghhhhhhHHHHH



payed immediately as well email time!

Flap wheels (for the drill) from Wilkinson worked for me (only do 80 grit but that will be fine)..

The amount of current you'd need to do a whole chassis in a reasonable amount of time would be huge, and you'd be left with a hell of clean up job afterwards. Getting rid of hundreds of gallons of grungy polluted water afterwards could be an issue.

It has been done though, I can remember seeing pictures of someone constructing a tank using lots of plywood lines with pond liner.

It's such a crappy horrible job de-rusting something as large as a trailer chassis that I'd price up getting it blasted.

think about all the water left inside the tubes! hmmmmm, no... grit/glass blasting i think