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Author: Subject: Chassis Re-paint Can Anyone Recommend a Paint
cfc999

posted on 13/6/15 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
Chassis Re-paint Can Anyone Recommend a Paint

Can anyone recommend the best type of product to re-paint my striker chassis.
It was stripped and powder coated a couple of years ago. Some areas are now showing signs of slight rust but 90% of it is in very good nick so I don't want to strip it again. I need to be sure that the paint I decide to use Isn't going to react with the old powder coating and doesn't start to flake off after a few months
Cheers
Chris

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rusty nuts

posted on 13/6/15 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
Best of luck , I ended up stripping my car to the bare chassis before stripping off the crap powder coating, I then got the chassis blasted before painting the bare chassis with POR 15 which was then top coated with Hardnose paint from Frosts Auto Restorations . Has been on the car now for 6 years and still looks good . The problem with powder coating is unless the chassis was prepared correctly it will lift in sheets, touching up only made things worse in my case, it seemed to lift the edges of the coating
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adithorp

posted on 13/6/15 at 06:00 PM Reply With Quote
POR15.





"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire

http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/

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Irony

posted on 13/6/15 at 06:35 PM Reply With Quote
I splashed out on jotamastic 87 with jotamastic hardtop flexi as a top. Bloody ££££££££. But is does come with a ten year submerged in saltwater warrenty. I got it from shephard marine. They told me i was being a bit Daft painting a chassis with. They paint oil rig legs with it.
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CosKev3

posted on 13/6/15 at 06:36 PM Reply With Quote
Rust Bullet
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coozer

posted on 13/6/15 at 06:39 PM Reply With Quote
I've used hempathane, its what they paint oil rigs with and came across it when I got the chassis blasted...

http://www.hempel.com/en/products/hempathane-topcoat-55210





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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OliilO

posted on 13/6/15 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
I used Tractol paint which conveniently came in RAL colours so I could match it to my existing powder coating. Initially I thought it was a bit soft, but quickly hardened up and seems to have been pretty tough over the last year or so.
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cfc999

posted on 13/6/15 at 10:19 PM Reply With Quote
Ok thanks for the info. Just wonderig if any of the above are going to react with my original powder coating. Will give Frost a ring and see what they recomend. A bit skint so high spec north sea stuff is going to be too expensive. Plan is to grind back down to metal the area's where the rusting has come through the powder coating then treat prime and re-paint.
Might get away with using a couple of cans of spay paint. Will proberly have to give the rest of the chassis a light sanding to get the new paint to key. Does this sound like a good plan.
Cheers
Description
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[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

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joneh

posted on 14/6/15 at 01:50 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cfc999
Ok thanks for the info. Just wonderig if any of the above are going to react with my original powder coating. Will give Frost a ring and see what they recomend. A bit skint so high spec north sea stuff is going to be too expensive. Plan is to grind back down to metal the area's where the rusting has come through the powder coating then treat prime and re-paint.
Might get away with using a couple of cans of spay paint. Will proberly have to give the rest of the chassis a light sanding to get the new paint to key. Does this sound like a good plan.
Cheers
Description
Description




[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]

[Edited on 13/6/15 by cfc999]


Spray paint will just chip off. If you're on a budget use a Hammerite type paint.

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JC

posted on 14/6/15 at 06:32 AM Reply With Quote
hammerite in rattle cans is the work of satan!!1 in 4 cans block up, no matter how much you shake it (in the mechanism, not the nozzle) and it has a thin, wartery consistency. Apply a micron too much and it runs like crazy. Apparently the trick is to apply a thin layer, wait 15 mins, then another layer, etc. I found it a nightmare!!!!
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joneh

posted on 14/6/15 at 07:32 AM Reply With Quote
I used the brush on stuff, looks crap when putting it on but dries smooth.
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rusty nuts

posted on 14/6/15 at 07:32 AM Reply With Quote
Tried Hammerite before stripping my chassis, a total waste of time and effort IMHO , just flakes off as badly as the powder coating and the slightest thing will chip it.
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joneh

posted on 14/6/15 at 07:40 AM Reply With Quote
Hmmm mines on like sh!t to a blanket, but then my 10 year old powder coat was still good, just looking tired. I guess it's keyed well into that.
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mark chandler

posted on 14/6/15 at 08:13 AM Reply With Quote
Teamac plant paint, great stuff sticks to your fingers, nose and hair.

It remains soft so can take plenty of abuse, avoid anything that goes hard as it will chip easily.

https://www.teamac.co.uk/find-a-stockist

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cfc999

posted on 14/6/15 at 10:08 AM Reply With Quote
I've used a spray called Rust-Oleum on some small areas and it seems to be holding up well.
Anyone else used this stuff.

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