wicket
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| posted on 27/8/06 at 05:59 PM |
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Sierra Ignition Key
We have the standard Sierra 'stick' type ignition key and just had a spare key cut. The guy in the shop said that because the key he
copied from was a bit worn the new one may stick a bit for a few times, he was dead right, the key fits OK and works but there's no way it will
come out. Anybody got a trick of the trade to remove it?
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JoelP
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| posted on 27/8/06 at 06:06 PM |
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worked once for me this, pull til the plastic handle comes off, then grip the stump with a wrench etc, and whack the wrench with a big hammer to pull
it out.
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Hellfire
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| posted on 27/8/06 at 07:25 PM |
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Try some WD40 in the barrel and wiggle it about a bit whilst trying to remove it. If and when you free it, remove all the sharp edges on the new key
with some wet n dry. Be sure to grease the key well before trying it in the ignition again (If it ever comes out).
Phil
[Edited on 27-8-06 by Hellfire]
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Chazzy
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| posted on 27/8/06 at 09:48 PM |
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Buy a new ignition barrel from your local ford dealer, comes with 2 brand new keys
its not locost, but makes using the key nicer, its not worn from 70000m of someone elses sweat and grime.
Chas
PS about 20 quid IIRC
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 27/8/06 at 10:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Chazzy
Buy a new ignition barrel from your local ford dealer, comes with 2 brand new keys
its not locost, but makes using the key nicer, its not worn from 70000m of someone elses sweat and grime.
Chas
PS about 20 quid IIRC
Actually only a coupe of quid under £50 including the vat, I priced one up as I only have one key for my car
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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zetec7
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 03:35 AM |
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Try rapidly twisting it back and forth as you pull to get the pins to release. When you get it out, use a Scotchbrite pad or steel wool to
"soften" the edges of the teeth on the key. That should make it work fine. As for lock lubricant, try using a "dry"
(non-oily) lubricant, like spray graphite. Oils and greaes attract dirt & grit, which can cause the lock to seize up. The graphite spray,
though, gets EVERYWHERE (and NEVER comes off clothing or upholstery), so be sure to mask around the lock with a plastic bag or something when spraying
it into the lock. 
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zetec7
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 03:37 AM |
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...and I should have mentioned that the graphite spray is black as soot. It even stains skin for several days! But, if sprayed onto metal, it stays
almost forever when dry.
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 06:26 AM |
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Got a new barrel and 2 keys from a Ford parts dealer off of ebay for £20 inc P&P . 5 minute job to fit and you don,t need to remove the stuck key.
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BKLOCO
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 06:45 AM |
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If you get the key cut properly, on a proper machine, from the code rather than coppied, It should be ok.
When I got mine cut he looked at the key, worked out the code, entered it in the machine and cut me a new key.
Works perfectly.
Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want!!! 
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Peteff
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| posted on 28/8/06 at 09:08 AM |
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Read this.
Here it shows you how to read the key and the link to the ignition shows how to rebuild the
barrel. I bought a car years ago with the locks superglued and found this stuff out for myself but this is useful. My Sierra only had one key and I
read it and got one cut on the market for a couple of quid instead of the price the Ford dealer wanted.
[Edited on 28/8/06 by Peteff]
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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