PeterW
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 12:58 PM |
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Waxolying a chassis
As the title says... Has anyone ever bothered...?? Mine is oint to be powder coated so the outside is fine, but just wondered whether it was possible
to do the inside and if it was worth it...?
Cheers
Peter
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DIY Si
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:11 PM |
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I'm looking at doing mine, but more to stop the old rivet bits from rattling than anything else. 
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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nick205
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:13 PM |
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I gave a squirt of waxoyl thru each rivet hole in the chassis not sure if it's worth it, but as DIY Si says it does stop and drilled out rivets
rattling around 
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mookaloid
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:18 PM |
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I'd be amazed if anyoune could hear a couple of rivets rattling inside the chassis on one of our cars.
I wear earplugs to protect my hearing from all the noise - Exhaust, twin 45 intake roar, stones hitting the bodywork, wind noise etc etc. so I have no
chance of hearing rivets inside a chassis member.
I wouldn't bother
"That thing you're thinking - it wont be that."
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DIY Si
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:20 PM |
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There's something rattling around in my chassis, and I can hear it over all the noises and wearing a helmet! It's in a cross member, as
you can only hear it when cornering.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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3GEComponents
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:39 PM |
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Si, that's what happens when you buy a "built" car, it's done to bug the life out of you.
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Peteff
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 01:45 PM |
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you can only hear it when cornering.
Don't corner then . I've drilled quite a few rivets out and as mentioned once the engine's running and the car's rolling you
can only hear the wind rush. If anything catches I can hear it though, like when the brake was sticking on the back wheel or the cam cover was
catching the pulley a bit.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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nitram38
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 02:13 PM |
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I personally wouldn't bother with waxoyl because your chassis is sealed and will probably last 30+ years.
Waxoyl is also an inflammible parrafin based product and is a pig to weld if you have to do any repairs. It just keeps running into your weld
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indykid
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 03:50 PM |
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and once you've driven the car a bit, and the chassis tubes have warmed up, you'll end up with nice pools of waxoyl all over your garage
floor. a right mess!
avoneer warned me about it, i was skeptical, i was wrong.
there's no waxoyl in my new chassis.
tom
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wilkingj
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 06:06 PM |
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I have waxoyled all my Landrovers (all 5 of them) It only weeps out on very hot days.
And is well worth it to stop it rusting inside.
However, the point about welding is well founded. Just prop up the bit you are working on, so the melted Waxoyl runs AWAY from the weld area. I would
have thought that was a bit too obvious
However, how long will you be keeping your car, How long will it take to rust through if you Don't protect it.
The chassis will probably outlast your use for it. However, driving my Landy in and out of Fords (The wet things) does warrant they use of
Waxoyl
Here is what I do:
Stand the vehicle on a couple of dust sheets that you can afford to throw away.
Drill a couple of hole at each end of the section to be protected. Allow the vehicle to be lifted at one end or side etc. so the waxoyl can drain
through and out the other hole.
Spray under pressure with a Proper Compressor driven gun (NOT a Schultz Gun)
Also cut the waxoyl with 10 - 15% white spirit. It will flow much better and DRAIN out much better, and you can recover it with a bowl under the
lowest hole.
If you MUST WARM it, sit the can in a bucket of boiling water, and keep topping up with more hot water. DO NOT heat with a NAKED FLAME. That is
seriously dangerous
This way you use less, and get a very thin coat, which is all you need.
This makes less weep out in the summer!.
Then plug the holes with tightly fitting plastic bungs.
OK, its your choice, but having used Waxoyl for the best part of 30 years, I have found it to be very good. Or Damned MESSY if you over cook it!.
PS... It also makes an excellent flamethrower when powered by 150psi in a Long nosed Parafin Gun
Guess how I know.
Oh... and Kiddies.... DONT try that at home!
Its right impressive, with 6ft of roaring flame, and is deadly dangerous
1. The point of a journey is not to arrive.
2. Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.
Best Regards
Geoff
http://www.v8viento.co.uk
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James
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| posted on 20/11/06 at 06:18 PM |
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If you've sealed your tubes correctly there's no need for it. Any moisture/air inside the sealed tube will turn to a small surface rust
inside the tube and then once all the mositure/air is used up no more rust can form.
And anyone that can hear rivets moving around inside isn't driving hard enough!!!
Cheers,
James
[Edited on 21/11/06 by James]
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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