LBMEFM
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 10:39 PM |
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Suspension Alignment
Hi. can anybody help me (again). I have assembled the suspension both ends and it does not look right. 1/ The rear dampers do not sit straight at the
base (upright top hole) mount they have to be pulled slightly forward to fit, is this normal?. I have also had to make up spacers because the bracket
gap is too wide, again is this normal?. 2/ I have not yet got the modified front uprights but now I have the front wishbones inplace the upper &
lower ball joints are not in line above each other + I have had to force the shock absorber (not too much but enough to put a side stress on it and
make it slightly angled forward) so that it locates in the bottom mounting. It does not also come through the top wishbone legs in the centre it is
to off set forward. I have the fitted the top wishbone as stated in the manual. Am I paranoid, is this normal will it all settle when the car is on
the ground or have other builders having/had these problems? Thanks for reading this and maybe giving some advice.
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PAUL FISHER
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 11:00 PM |
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I am not too sure what you mean regarding your rear suspension,if you post a picture this may help,as they say "a picture can speak a thousand
words" as for the front,your top and bottom ball joints should not line up,this is your caster angle,and the shock absorber is not in a
central position going through the wish bone,I think this picture may help
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PAUL FISHER
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 11:03 PM |
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sorry this picture
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macnab
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 11:04 PM |
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I had to put washers in at the base to get the strut vertical, its normal. I think that is why there is space round the strut so it allows for
adjustment. I remember wondering at the time why there was so much room! Hopefully both sides will need the same amount of adjustment if not I still
would not panic, try swapping them round then you should get it right as left and right are interchangeable.
Again the front sounds normal as the top ball joint should be behind of the bottom one, that's your caster angle. Have a look at previous posts
as this has come up a week ago.
Scott.
[Edited on 3/1/07 by macnab]
[Edited on 3/1/07 by macnab]
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stevec
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| posted on 3/1/07 at 11:55 PM |
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As Macnab says the front looks correct.
And the rears need a bit of jiggling with washers/spacers.
Steve.
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StevenB
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| posted on 4/1/07 at 10:25 PM |
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When you say the shock is angled forward.....
After attaching the shock at the top do you have to push it back or forwards to
fit it into the lower shock mount?
As you can see from my pics
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=57545&page=2
My lower shock mount is approx 10mm behind the top one.
cheers
steve
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 5/1/07 at 09:27 AM |
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Remember that the shocks have a rubber bush. On our indy you needed to space the brackets with washers (can't remember if this was the top and
bottom) to get it close, the rubber bush takes up the rest (also remeber only to fully tighten these bolts once the car is fully built and on the
ground!).
To confirm every thing is correct you can fit the shocks without the springs, you should then be able to move the wishbone over it's complete
travel and check that nothing binds, if not I doubt you have a problem. It's a good idea to do this any way to check that everything o.k..
Cheers
Dan
[Edited on 5/1/07 by Bluemoon]
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flying_coffin
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| posted on 5/1/07 at 09:05 PM |
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Camber
I've just fitter mine and they are not perfectly aligned. Not 10mm out but maybe 5mm. When bolted in place the bushes took up this difference
with no problems.
Any body got any pointers for setting the camber. As in how to do it and what to set it at?
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PAUL FISHER
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| posted on 5/1/07 at 09:41 PM |
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You need a camber gauge to accurately set camber,the best thing to do is when your car has been through SVA is take it either back to mk,or somewhere
local to you,to get it set up,and corner weighted etc.As for the camber settings,2 degree's negative front and 3 degree's negative rear is
a good starting point.
[Edited on 19/05/04 by PAUL FISHER]
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Bob C
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| posted on 6/1/07 at 10:12 PM |
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I set my camber at perfectly upright (spirit level) on full droop. This is REAL easy to do and should end up with a tad of neg. camber at ride height.
This is my baseline setting - if I change it I'll note the deviation from this baseline (in turns of thread) so I can repeat it.
A spirit level with a laser in makes this kind of job a breeze!
ATB
Bob
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Bob C
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| posted on 7/1/07 at 08:26 PM |
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Fair enough chris, but it's a baseline setting, it's fairly simple trig to work out how many turns on the rose joints give you how many
degrees; once you have a baseline, small corrections are easy & should give repeatable results!
Bob
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