I played a new game today. How many times can I stall the engine just driving out of the garage. The biteing point on my R1 clutch is nothing and it's just as your foot is off the pedal. Pulling away on the flat is tricky. A slight up hill - forget it. Once I'm rolling it's OK starting from rest...
By the way, I have a barnett coil spring clutch pressure plate with new EBC clutch pads.

when I lift off the throttle the exhaust crackles and fizzes. Is this normal?

On my first attempt on a trip out, the clutch "popped" at the end of the road. Pushed the car back down the street and started to dismantle. Then the battery in my lamp went flat. It turned out to be clutch pedal over travel. The pressure plate, which locates on dogs, was pulled right out and had to be taken off and refitted. anyway, the clutch cover gasket is a gonner. Yamaha take about a week to get replacements. So, is liquid gasket any good? If so which sort should I get?

Oh, and to top it all off, the indicators stopped working. The hazzards are just fine , so it's not the bulb or the relay. I suspect the fuse.

I have an MOT booked for 10:30 tomorrow. any suggestions would be very greatly received.

The car looks nice on the road though.

Dont worry about stalling the engine. I stalled about half a dozen times getting out of my street on the first attempt. That didnt give me confidence about pulling out of the junction onto the busy road!!!
You will get used to it, also let the engine warm up for five mintes before setting off as the throttle response on my R1 indy isnt as fierce once the engine gets a bit of heat in it. Also try to invest in some proper racing boots, you might look a wally walking down the street in them but they give excellent feedback from the controls and definatley make the car easier to drive.
Your exhaust should pop and crack it bit on the overrun (isnt it great!!!!!!!)

Indicators will be the fuse. Change it first before you dismantle the dash, spoken from harsh experience.

Hope this helps

Enjoy

sounds like you've had one of those days!!!

First thing, don't panic!! sounds like you are well on the way to putting things right.

You could put a simple stop so that the clutch pedal can't travel too far, I have one on my acc pedal, alot of people just use a big M8 coach bolt.

As for the indicators it is more than likely something simple, just follow the usual logical steps to find the problem, could well be a fuse as you say but check as much as you can.

Good luck,
Rich.

Plenty bit revs and slip the beggar then whoooosh off you go....huge grin for ages

You could always change the ratio on the clutch pedal by moving the cable closer the pivot point. Stop you pulling the clutch over and gear it down (spread the bite point) .

On a bike the pull travel at the handlebars is only 1/2"... You must be pulling far in excess of that car clutches have nearer 1 1/2" travel....

Never having driven a BEC I'm not sure this would work, but if you have a very sensitive clutch, how about going to a small diameter master cylinder? That way the clutch pedal moves more for a given clutch movement, allowing more precise engagement.

[Edited on 11/7/05 by kb58]

He's got a cable, not hydraulic clutch.

--Chris

Opps, that would do it. Okay, then like the other post said, change the mechical ratio so it's roughly half what you have now.

Re, the indicators. I had the same issue when driving to my SVA. I had wired the indicators & brake lights to the same fuse. When testing I had (obviously) not tried braking & indicating at the same time. When I did on the way to the SVA the fuse popped. Uprated the fuse and all OK. (I had put in very low fuse ratings for testing).

Be careful you don't cause permanent damage to the clutch. It's worth installing a stop and adjusting it properly.
Instructions at the bottom of this page.

Thanks guys. there is a big coach bolt fitted as a clutch pedal stop but it ibviously isn't big enough.

as for liquid gasket, I'll just see what mr halfords recommends.

The Barnett springs turn the clutch pedal into a switch.

Get the racing boots/shoes ASAP.

I occasionally still stall mine if I haven't been in it for a week or two - especially if I've just got out of my tin top.

5 mins later and all is well again.

The solution is simple, move the cable mounting point on the clutch pedal closer to the pivot point. You want a MAXIMUM of 15mm of travel at the bike clutch lever for full movement of the clutch pedal.

Once you have done this the bite point will be less aggressive and you will avoid damaging the clutch by overpulling it. It will still take some practice but will not as binary as you are experiencing. As Triton said don't be affraid to slip the clutch a little

Cheers

Paul

I would not recommend using instant gasket (or taking the advice of the average grease monkey at Halfords!). Firstly the clutch cover spacing from the clutch is quite critical so if you remove the paper gasket you effectively put the two parts slightly closer together, it may not cause an issue but it might not help things, I know when I trial fitted my blade clutch cover without a gasket just to see if it would actuate OK, the actuator arm didnt engage as smoothly as with a gasket. Secondly though, instant gasket tends to squeeze itself out and then floats around in the oil, so unless you are very sparing and careful putting it on, you either end up with lumps of it clogging up the oil pickup pipe, or if you didnt put enough on you end up with an oil leak from the gasket itself.

Chris

If I remeber correctly, the R1 has a puller clutch rather than a pusher so replacing the clutch cover gasket with instant would reduce the travel...

However, I am with Chris on this one, always use a gasket as thats what the tolerances allow for..

It could pull the cluth until it hits the clutch cover and removes metal on the inside...

With reference to the indicator problem. If your hazards are on a rocker switch, like mine, I found that there was a little bit of play in the switch when off which caused the indicators to stop functioning. Try turning on an indicator and gently pressing the hazard switch around the off position.

HTH

Also, a good tip when installing new gaskets, is to smear them on both sides with copper-slip. Next time you need take bits apart the gasket will just pull off without effort and may even be re-usable.

I fitted a longer stop bolt today and also adjusted the clutch cable so that there was a bit of slack when the pedal was released. It is slightly better. There must have been just a little tension in the cable causing the clutch to be just disengaged. I still stalled it a few times on the way to my MOT.

The MOT centre I chose is up a bit of a ramp into the test lane. A bit too much of a ramp as it turns out. Still, at least I got a bit of a ride.

The fuse wasn't blown but the act of taking out the fuse and refitting it seems to have worked. I'll have to keep an eye on that.

I'll phone yamaha for a gasket. or perhaps two as they take so long.

thanks everyone.

I'll confirm what Mark said with regards to the clutch cable linear travel - it needs to be 1/2" and no more....

I made a stop for my pedal using a stainless allen bolt (a bit nicer than a coach bolt) and it all worked beautifully first time!

Did it pass the MOT though?

[Edited on 8/11/05 by Coose]

quote:

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Originally posted by Coose
Did it pass the MOT though?[Edited on 8/11/05 by Coose]

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quote:

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Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
I would not recommend taking the advice of the average grease monkey at Halfords!
Chris

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took my indyblade to the track on back off beavertail truck loaded myself ( oh not nice)

Get it sussed and they are mad......don't be scared to rev it Jap motors love it