Ok been phoning about today to see what engines i can find.

Found lots of Carb'd Blade and R1's

Can anyone confirm what i need with the engine package? Alot of them come with the following:

Engine
Carbs including airbox
Loom
CDI
Rectifier
Fuel pump
Coil

Am i missing anything ?

Also just getting together list of other parts needed for my change from locost pinto to locost bec.

2 Peice prop
Prop flange sprocket converter thingy
Engine cradle
Exhaust
New bonnet
New front springs (unsure of poundage !)
Gear linkage
New dashboard to put bike clocks in
Clutch springs
Sump mod ?

I wasn't gonna bother with reverse

Anything else ?

quote:

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Am i missing anything ?

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Is your current diff ratio suitable for a BEC? Without knowing your wheel size etc, you'll need approximately a 3.6 or numerically lower (eg 3.38)

Also does your Pinto manifold come out the side panel or is that why you've specced a bonnet, if the latter then you'll need a new one of those because a BEC exhaust will come out the other side.

I would also take into account that you might need to lower the rear springs too to regain the balance.

Bike clocks arent on your list, or are you buying 3rd party gauges? If you go with the bike clocks then you'll need a Yellowbox / Speedohealer to correct the speedo output.

I think we might have a 3.9 not sure though how can i tell ? What will this mean ?

Yes bonnet spec cause exhaust currently comes out of it.

Yes was planning on using the bike clocks but thinking about it now do i need to. Current got electronic speedo so that would keep cost down and could get a digital dash later.

What mods are recommended to sumps on R1 / Fireblade and how much you charge.

If the diff is a 3.9 then it might be a bit low geared. The blade and R1 are one of the best geared bike engines for BEC use but with a 3.9 in you'll top out at around 110mph with 185/60-13" tyres, and motorway driving will be a real chore. larger diameter wheels / higher profile tyres will obviously improve that a bit but if you've already got good tyres etc then it will probably be cheaper to replace the diff.

As for gauges, it depends. If your current speedo picks up from your gearbox you might have to find a way to get a pickup from a BEC setup. You'll need a new rev counter though, unless you're building a Harley BEC which only revs to 7k

As to sumps, both need a baffle plate but strictly neither need the actual sump pan modding, although putting the blade sump plug on the side is a good idea to keep it out of harms way (£25 + postage). For an R1 baffle plate see Paul Roger's advert in For Sale at ~£30, for a blade one last time I looked The Kit Car Workshop or Stuart Taylor flogged them for ~£20-30

[Edited on 16/11/05 by ChrisGamlin]

110mph does sound bad to me dont know if id dare going much quicker and with a 3.6 you would only gain about 10mph wouldn't you ?

Oh yes forgot that rev counter only goes that far. Hmmmm Harley bec that would be different.

Would you say ive covered most stuff then Chris with the engine package as i won't to try and sort one for weekend and don't want to miss something.

With our pinto we forgot to grab the electronic ignition which is a tab embarrassing but it was i nightmare trying to get hold of one so ive learnt from that.

If you're going for an R1 it would be worth getting the Exup valve too, and with either engine it might be worth getting the airbox so you can run it up and/or modify it to fit (although a lot of people fit a foam sausage filter).

Ignition barrel / key possibly? If its a late (98/99) carbed blade then the barrel has a little resistor built into it as a crude anti theft device, its easily overcome with a 10p purchase from Maplins but its easier still to use the orginal key etc if its available.

Cant think of anything else off the top of my head but I might be forgetting something obvious so do a search on here as the bits have been listed before.

Chris

BTW, regarding the diff, if you're planning on taking it on track you really need to plan for around 120mph+ otherwise you'll be hammering the limiter all the time. A 3.6 will only gain you about 10mph like you say but it makes sod all difference to acceleration and it does make a fair bit of difference in the real world. It also makes it much more bearable if you need to sit at 70-80mph on the motorway for any length of time.

Ill keep an eye out then for a new diff then what english axle's have this diff ?

The key ahh yes ill have to ask about that.

Ah, if its an English axle you'll be looking for a 3.54, sorry I assumed you had an IRS setup hence the 3.3/3.6 suggestions. The 3.54 was in the RS2000, and possibly in one of the automatic Escorts but not sure on that.

Chris

[Edited on 16/11/05 by ChrisGamlin]

how tall can you go as regards diff ratio for a de dion rear setup (R1 engine) and still get top notch acceleration (assuming probably 195/45/15 tyres)? and what diffs would have this ratio?



[Edited on 18/11/05 by daffy]

I've got the 3.14 diff & an R1. The combination will take 1st gear up to ~65mph. The high gearing may make starting awkward and may lose some potential acceleration at low speeds in 1st (though it should maintain 0.7G between 25 and 60) and I think lower gearing would be more at risk of wheelspin and would be much more of a pain on a longer journey.
I look forward to finding out next year...
Bob

As ive often said, within the bounds of whats suitable for a BEC (ie gives top speed of between 110mph and 140mph), having a longer diff really doesnt seem to affect real world, side by side acceleration very much at all. If you do a search for my posts within the last month or so, there's a link to a spreadsheet that will work it all out for you.

Edited to add - link to BEC gear calc spreadsheet now in my avatar below

Chris

[Edited on 18/11/05 by ChrisGamlin]

how much you being quoted for blade/r1 setups?

ta for that chris

to much at the mo started of at just over £2000 but now more near £3000.

Not had full quote yet so i wait in anticipation.