Anyone know where I can get some of this from (Leeds area?) It's what's been used in the Fireblade in my Indy and I want to ideally top it up with the same. I've tried Hein Gericke, J&S and Dyrons.

Alternatively what are the other recommended brands or does it not really matter? Not really up on bike oils, so will I be fine with eg Putoline, Redline or whatever else so long as it's 10w40 4 stroke fully synthetic? Are any too "slippy" for a wet clutch in a BEC application and to be avoided for example?

Ta, Sy

you are an bit doubling the case...

when you say Fully sentetic it can be any oil. when you say 10W40 it also can...

when you say its for an bike...

You already go to an Bike oil
(wich is the normal oil + gearbox extra's and clutch extra's..)

altough many car oils have the same markings on the bottle they aren't gearbox/clutch conform the bike norms...

i use IPONE its japanese???
before i used motul, but i changed the oil completely because of an oil leak..(my carter broke)

and 5Km running..

Tks

Theres Jordans bikes, At the top of Geldard Road near the Showcase

They might do it

Hi mate Bike oils and car oils are Totally different or should I say incompatible.

failing all this just go to a bike shop and get a decent brand of the equivalent oil

your not exactly going to do it any harm

chris

quote:

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Originally posted by zxrlocost
Hi mate Bike oils and car oils are Totally different or should I say incompatible.

failing all this just go to a bike shop and get a decent brand of the equivalent oil

your not exactly going to do it any harm

chris

---

Car synthetics may contain teflon Amongst other things...which will destroy a wet clutch...

Make sure you use a good quality synthetic such as Castrol R4..

My bikes always used Castrol R4... the found it very palletable



Castrol R4 Superbike oil has been re-formulated to maximise your engine’s power and give improved clutch performance – and we were there in the final stages of its development.
During this process, dozens of engines were run over thousands of hours on the dyno – and then each engine component was inspected to ensure the oil is as good as it can possibly be.

MCN went to Castrol’s Pangbourne Research Centre ahead of next week’s launch of the new, improved R4 Superbike to see what goes in to the oil that lubricates and protects your bike’s engine…
What did Castrol Do?
Listening to a brand new Honda CBR600RR lapping Brands Hatch is a strange experience when it’s just an engine strapped to a dyno.

Castrol engineers used datalogged information that Ron Haslam set by thrashing a road bike around the circuit. The noises are muted by the sound deadening of the dyno room, but the screaming four-cylinder motor can still be clearly heard.

Checking the datalogging trace on the computer screen, it’s even possible for the engineers to see where the engine is on the ‘lap’.
This was the final stage of testing of the latest version of Castrol R4 Superbike synthetic oil that goes on sale next week.
This is no ordinary test either – this engine is not even a week old and it’s already been running flat out for 45 hours – only another 55 to go before the test is complete. That means a staggering 12,600 miles flat out with the same oil inside.

A full 100 hours is what Castrol considers a middle distance test – the real endurance stuff takes much longer. For the likes of massive diesel truck engines they can run non-stop for 800 hours.

David Jilbert – Castrol’s motorcycling and small engines team leader – told MCN: “We spend a phenomenal amount of time and effort making sure that what we bring to the market has been tested to suit the bikes of today.”
The day MCN visited, we saw:
A Honda XR250 motor running flat-out and coming to the end of a 10-hour test. The spark plug washer temperature was running at a steady 200 degrees Centigrade
An Indian market Hero Honda C90 motor running at extreme temperatures – apparently these usually let go after 170 hours of running flat-out.
A Honda VTR SP-2 motor undergoing endurance testing as part of the R4 Superbike oil testing.
The lengths Castrol go to...
Like any school science experiment, a control element is the key. Each and every component of every engine, down to the last valve, has to be identical to others tested before.

Almost 90% of parts picked are rejected for inferior tolerances – these can be out by as little as four microns.
Did you know?
After each test, each metal engine component is inspected and a 100 point check is carried out by pairs of workers in specially lit inspection rooms.
A chassis dyno with a robotic ‘rider’ can ride complete bikes under temperatures ranging from -25 degrees Centigrade to +40 degrees Centigrade. The ‘rider’ controls the bike in the same way a normal rider would, but can keep going for as long as they want the test to last.

This article was featured in Motorcyle News on Wednesday 25th May 2005


[Edited on 20/11/05 by G.Man]

[Edited on 20/11/05 by G.Man]

http://www.ixion.org.uk/faq/oil2.html

Texaco Havoline is a 15W40 SAE oil which meets or exceeds the API - SG classification. It is used by Indycart racing and Nascar racing teams in the USA. Even if you change your oil twice as often as your handbook suggests, you'll be saving money. It also often comes with a free gift, so not only is it good for the 'bike, it gives you free first-aid kits and the like.

I've used Havoline in bikes for years and never had any problems, clutch or otherwise. £10 for 5 litres from the local spares shop. I change my bike oil about 3,000 mile intervals but not religiously, and change the filter every time. I've been tempted by the publicity but being a tight sod I've always resisted it.
Rock oil do a range of performance oils, fully and semi synthetic.
http://www.rockoil.co.uk/

15w-40 is a bit heavy for most bikes, but will probably suffice for most...

It will have a lot more drag on cold startup days, but then how often do we use our cars in those conditions???

If it is mineral oil with no teflon added, I would say go for it... if its synthetic with teflon then steer clear...

Personally tho, I will use the more expensive synthetic oil as my engine will be stressed hard and I will be using it in a hotter dustier climate...



PS. Silkolene always recycled second hand oil and say it improves after use... but then I guess they re-add viscosity improvers..



[Edited on 20/11/05 by G.Man]

oil is always an difficult subject because it depend very much on what do you opinion about it.

Altough i think that changing an bad oil twice as fast as an good oil isn't an way to save money.

because an bad oil will do its small damage from the start to the end..

anyway i also think that as long the api grade is right and it is for bikes you have nothing to fear.

i like the idea of investing in your engine an good oil. like you eat some times good expensive stuff...

altough the stuff in the food is the same, the taste isn't...

its complicated..

Tks

p.d also i think like with many other stuff there are only an couple of BIG brands and the cheaper stuff might just buy the same stuff. on the otherside wy they don't throw this in the open world??