Hi Ive been having a few gear changing probs when I was driving my car

it drives perfect apart from when thrashing it from 1st to second it finds neutral

it goes from first to second when going slower perfect

it also goes through all the other gears perfect

so to me that means my paddle is working perfect and Ive got the gear selector positioned ok

my clutch pulls ok

and it doesnt jump out of gear

I could swear I also get whine more in second

Ive noticed that when I was looking at some other peoples BECs there gear selector you could flick it and it would go into gear

mine you have to really clunk!!

and thats at the engine end


Ive got good oil in

so If I start with the gear selector what would I be looking for if it was worn

its an r1 engine

thanks chris

on an bike engine surely neutral is between 1st and second.

6
5
4
3
2
N
1.

Ray

[Edited on 28/4/06 by rayward]

should explain better mate sorry I know that

neutral is the slightest touch

but when driving it shouldnt find neutral easy

I really have to bang it twice when thrashing to go into second something isnt right

sorry to say that it sounds like 2nd gears is fooooked. mine did exactly the same and ive got the engine in bits now. Its a common problem with R1 engines apparently as they eat second gear.
Mine was very noisy in second and it really clunked when engaging. i could live with that but the main problem was when giving it full power in second gear it would jump out into neutral at about 10,000rpm. o.k. in every other gear though. i should have the box stripped out later today so i will report back with the damage.

I used to have troble going from 1st to 2nd at high revs. I had two problems:

1) the hole in the transmission tunnel cover was too small and my gear lever bottomed out on the fibreglass. You need more lever travel when going through neutral

2) there was too much play in my gear select cable. The gearbox end outer sleve mounting was turning a bit when pushing the cable, shortening the amount of "throw" that it had. I put an extra bolt in to to stop it moving and it's been fine since.

ok but mine doesnt jump out of gear

and goes in fine at low revs

so Im a bit stumped but ill check the lever first

It'll be the dogs on the two gears that mate in the selection of second and or the selector fork that does the selecting.

I've had the same problem on a Hayabusa in a single seater, all gears selected fine at slow gentle speeds but once the hammer was dropped it was at least two attempts for each gear.

When taken apart there was a fooked selector fork and three fooked gears.

The cause of it all was a poor quality gear change cable that was 'skiving' in the 'pull' direction.

Use only Tuthill Controls 'Cable Craft' Marine / Aerospace cables they are fit and forget.

how would I know if the selector a was duffed mate

is it obvious

You'll be able to check the tolerances on the selector forks with those in the manual. You'll probably even notice the wear on your selector fork if that's the problem.

ok ill get a manual today which I was going to anyway

tolerances??
sorry but Im still learning

Within tolerance = 4.2mm - 4.8mm (made up figures)

Anything less than 4.2mm and they need replacing.

ok cheers

numbers like 5 +0 - 0.5

means that everything bigger as 5 will be fail and everything smaller as 4.5 will also be an fail.

The total tolerace will then be 0.5

Then you also have the 10 +0.2 - 0.5

same game everything between 9.5 and 10.2 will be fin bigger or smaller will be fail.
Tolerance margen = 0.7

regards,

Tks

p.s
There is also a standardisation for tolerances h7 and H7 is a example.

they are used sow everything straight away knows what to do.

Basically with gears and selector forks if it dont look like brand new it's fooked.

The dogs will have rounded corners and burrs on them, the selector forks will be twisted and / or galled on the faces that contact the gears.

ok ill get looking cheers