i currently own a honda cbr1000f powered indy and was wondering what is best and easiest to upgrade to. I want more power (so i can gear it for better
top speed) but i am unsure what engine to get.
any recomendations?
i would preffer a carb engine as its easier to fuel it and save me some time from adding the extra fuel lines, but i will go injection if u think its
a good move. Wiring is simple and welding buts are also no problem. What i need to know is things like dry sumping and the like.
i see many new bike kits for sale on here and i know they are much higher reving and higher power so im not looking for a busa (zx12 any good?).
main question! is it worth me moving to a new engine or just the 'older' types. i only want to do this once tho.
budget? mmmm below 2k if i can all in.
thanks guys
quote:V8?
any recomendations?
funny u say that i have got a 3.9 sitting on my garage floor doing nawt.
must b a bike engine tho.
I also run a CBR1000F - I'd toyed with the idea of an R1, no dry-sumping is a must for me, but I'd definitely go injected as the later injected engines are the more powerful. I've also thought about supercharging. To be honest there are plenty of things that'll make it go faster; get it handling well, and keep the weight down (I'm at 420kg), and learn to drive it properly. If you've done all that then the R1 has to be the logical route; and the price is achieveable as I'm sure Yorkshire Engines who lists/advertises on here will vouch.
Go tubo.
NOS !!!!!!!!!!
got nos need to get bottled filled and see what its like.
looked at turbo and supercharging but pushed the stock engine past what i call reliable (its working hard in the car as it is).
my car is extremly heavy compaired to yours at 566kg, what is so special to make yours so light. it is an MK isnt it?
i gould get some lightwieght 15" wheels to replace my 'show' 17" ones, but this wont save me much, also grp seats instead of
cabra's. but what else it available to 'unbolt' and swap to make it lighter. the difference between mine and your must make yours fly
and might b anought to stop me needing more power.
So new injection R1 doesnt need sumping mods? looks nice and power rev fiques for this engine?
Thanks
having used a carb r1 and injection r1 both in bike and been in both cars( I have a carb one)
the injection is up on power but the carb delivers it more violent if you get what I mean
prolly R1 - but you're gonna be pushing that £2K limit... maybe new propshaft, Engine Cradle, Exhaust Headers, Fuel Tank if internal pump? That
little lot is gonna be somewhere in the region of £500... that leaves £1500 for the engine.
HTH Steve (no chance of a ZX12R lump for that budget).
Fuel lines with EFI are not an issue, use the existing pump to feed a swirl pot, EFI is just in and out under the bonnet.
thought even with a swirl pot, you still needed a return to tank??.
Ray
you could try it with one fuel line.
the regulator will then be fitted on the line near the tank.
sow behind the regulator is the pump
mount a return valve on that line to!
sow fuel cant get out the line to the pump.
then it should work with only one line!
Tks
p.d. the bad thing could be that you could get pretty hot fuel because it isn“t circulating..
No need,
Swirl pot fed by carb pump will keep the pot full as it will stop when pressure is a couple of PSI.
If you ran two EFI pumps then you would need a return as the tank upfeed will try and force 4 bar into the pot.
NB/ if you car is heavy then the best way to improve performance is a diet !
Doubling the weight requires quadruple the power to maintain the straight line performance but handling suffers, halve the weight and its all gain
gain gain.......
For £££ you are probally better off working with what you have already got, plastic is heavy so ali bonnet, scuttle etc you can make these for £100.
Throw away any excess et al. If the car is basically heavy through design then adding 10% more BHP will not add 10% more perfomance, saving weight 10%
will add 15% performance.
If its handling you want to improve not straight line then look at engine position, radiator etc, by dragging the engine back a few inches you cold
move the rad to inside the wheel base etc.... this is then chopping a few bits of steel and a bit of customisation, then spend the cash on other
bits.
If you spend money on carbon seats etc you can always resell the old or keep in the cupboard to move the trick bits across if you decide a lighter
chassis is the thing ulitmately.
Regards Mark
[Edited on 3/7/06 by mark chandler]
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Doubling the weight requires quadruple the power to maintain the straight line performance
can make my own tank at work so thats pence, engine cradle again is pence as i will make my own. propshaft shouldnt be needing an mods just the
adaptor as i will make the engine fit the prop (if all looks fine) only thing being the headers which i will have to pay for. (if i make these myself
it may look messy).
so if its weight reduction whats the plan? its currently got a s/steel fuel tank which i can make out of 1.6 or 2 mm alloy, this should save 5kg?
wheels and tyres say 10kg? seats 10 kg each? am i hoping too much here, saving 50kg will make a huge difference, but can i do it on this alone. i can
replace many panels with alloy (work for an alloy fabricator) but prefer not to as it will ruin the looks IMHO. if i can save 50kg for 1k is it worth
it over a 2k engine with 30 bhp more?
u got me thinking about saving weight now damn u.
[Edited on 3/7/06 by Moorron]
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Doubling the weight requires quadruple the power to maintain the straight line performance
i dont get that bit, can you clarify?
quote:
Originally posted by donut
quote:V8?
any recomendations?
I'm Hellfires alter ego!!!!!
not sure what brakesi have fitted as i didnt biuld the car. whats the price of the light weight kits? do these cars really need 4 pots? i seem to lock up before i get any sort of braking fade.
You've got standard vented Sierra brakes - massive overkill if you ask me. I'd go to ally calipers and solid discs.
Hi Spec's 2 Pots weigh the same as their 4 Pots apparently.
If you can, weight the steel wheels that came with the car and compare them to the 17s. The difference is massive!!!!
[Edited on 4/7/06 by TimC]
hi tim how are u doing in your new job? hope its smoother than the last one.
thanks for the info, i agree they are too easy to lock up so i think your advice is what i will do.
i am not driving on the streets with those steel rims. lol. but i will weight them to see what the diff is also my spare set of 15 ford puma wheels i
hae lying about.
What about those steel rims chromed for the Hot Rod look? People must get bored of reading our conversations on here....
Could you run your fuel return into the swirl pot instead of back to the tank?