smart51
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 08:15 AM |
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R1 overcoooling
The water temperature on my R1 engined vortex never seems to get above 45° when driving. If left stationary then the temperature will rise slowly
until the fan switched on but driving at any speed sees the temp drop to 40° or lower.
I know it's been cold lately but I'm still a bit concerned at driving with a cold engine.
The temperature sensor is after the thermostat so the engine temperature may be a bit warmer. The heater flow valve is switched off.
Is this normal or do I have a problem?
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 08:49 AM |
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Running the motor too cool is not good for it.
Its an old fashioned solution but the application of some aluminium foil to the face of the radiator will help maintain a higher temp. I use cable
ties to hold in place.
This is what I did on my R1 rad on some very cold days.
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cossey
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 10:08 AM |
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1. the temp sensor should be on the engine side of the thermostat as at the moment you are measuring the temp of the water going to the rad which is
fairly irrelevant.
2. the way most cooling systems work is that no water is pushed thjrough the rad until the thermostat has opened so when the engine is cold the water
in the rad is stationary. when the engine water gets to temp (around 80oC) then water is diverted through the rad to cool it down. so in your case the
engine water temp must be getting up to temp then due to the cold weather the radiator is cooling the water down very quickly when the thermostat is
open so the thermostat closes quite quickly. in effect you are getting short pulses of water moving in the rad whereas when the car is hot you would
get much longer periods with the thermostat open.
so you engine isnt running at 40oC it is running at normal temps but the outside temp affects the radiator temps.
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Coose
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 10:14 AM |
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1, The standard R1 temp sensor is in the radiator. This maybe isn't ideal, but as the later carbed ones use this to bring the fan on I can see
why they do it.
2, I ditched my 'stat yonks ago. Now I control temp as I do on my yamaha TZ250 racing bike - stick strips of duct tape across the radiator to do
the same thing as jimi indicated. My local bike tuner (British Supersports and Superbike) recommends running temps down to 65degC so that'll do
for me! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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cossey
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 11:54 AM |
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the injection engines have the sensor on the engine side iirc and have a temp controlled fan which measures the temp in the rad. the injection engines
need more accurate temps as it affects the mapping whereas the carbed engined ones dont need this.
the lower temps are useful as it allows higher cr without getting detonation. (the newer engines (04-05) run much higher compression than the old carb
ones (one of the reasons for the 175bhp ove the older ones 150-155).
manually blanking off the rad and using no thermostat will work but it requires alot of tweaking to get it to work better than the standard stat so
doesnt realy seem worth it for anything but a fair weather toy.
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Coose
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 12:57 PM |
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That's absolutely right!
I don't run the stat as I try to keep mine at around 65-70degC (not always in mid-summer though.....), where if the stat is fitted there's
not a hope in hell of doing this!
Smart51's R1 is a carbed one, therefore the location of the temp sensor isn't critical. As jimi said, blank off some of your rad and see
if it makes a difference.
Spin 'er off Well...
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 10/1/06 at 01:14 PM |
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these threads are great just the other day one chap was concerned about using the r1 rad at all and now weve got someone else whos car is to cold 
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tks
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| posted on 11/1/06 at 01:56 PM |
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What are you measureing?
Thats the question you have to aks your self....
If you measure the temp of the rad.
and your stat is closed then your engine temp will be much higher.
If your stat is old (it doesn't close)
your rad will warm up imidiately when you start your engine...
i think your problem is the stat and also the place where you measure the engine temp.
the only right place is the engine head!
my fan switch i placed on the rad outlet, sow when the rad can't pull the temp down it will switch on the fan...
when driveing an stat isn't opening and closeing like an door! sow now pulses in any form...
in fact the stat is like an balance device...
the hotter the engine the more % of water will flow through the rad.....
in fact we all need to adore this device because it makes the rad selection easier for us...wy?
if i take to small the rad, it will open more?
(until it reaches his limit)
if we take to big, it won't open until its limits...
sow in fact if you need to choose between 2 rads, choose the biggest!
(don't read this as the heaviest)
when the engine reaches 80degrees the stat will open 1mm then the engine will mix the rad water with the hot engine water...etc.. then it will reach
an point where it won't open more/close more...
Tks
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smart51
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| posted on 11/1/06 at 02:05 PM |
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I am confident that the stat is working. The thermostat warms up when the engine is running long before the pipe to the radiator starts to get
warm.
When the thermostat opens, then warm water will flow out of the engine and cold water will flow in. This cold water will be close to freezing because
the radiator is so cold. The thermostat will close again but not before the engine has cooled to below the thermostat temperature. My concern is
that the engine never warms up above the thermostat-starts-to-open temperature and that it may cycle below this temperature as the stat opens, alowing
too much water flow.
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tks
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| posted on 11/1/06 at 02:17 PM |
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it cant
the the stat never will reach full opening temp ok..
but the stat is made from an special material..that will react to every tenth of degrees chance...sow in your situ the stat will open an bit an maybe
close again....
if thats the case then the only solution is
that if you block the rad sow the new water isn't cooled down..sow fast...
anyway your engine will be working on 80degrees..sow an bit on the low side..
but ok..
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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