doughie
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 07:28 AM |
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BEC general questions
OK, have tried the forum out elsewhere and like the no nonsence replies so have got a few questions for those of you in the know...
how robust are BE's in a lightweight car - do they keep goin and goin or prone to heavy servcie routines etc...? (guess there not as bullet
proof as a zetec over time and miles?)
whats the weight difference between the bike and a 500 - 600 KG locost?
what weights do locosts come in at - race and road goin models?
as always, helpful advice always appreciated
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cossey
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 08:29 AM |
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bike engine longevity is still abit unknown as there arent that many that have covered very high miles. many of the bikes the engine come from are
capable of very long lifes (not as long as modern car engines but 50k+ is becoming the norm) but they do need regular oil changes and you need to keep
an eye on things like the clutch which will be more highly stressed compared to the bike.
weight will be around 450-475kg for a car with a fairly standard chassis etc, if you start out trying to keep the weight down ie lightweight chassis,
bodywork etc then 425kg is more likely. to get to 400 or lower requires a very spartan car and some expensive ultra lightweight parts.
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stevec
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 10:08 AM |
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Clutches tend to be a bit of a weakness on some BEC But heavy duty ones that are available help.
No reverse is a pain but reverse boxes are available "at a price  "
Also some engines suffer with oil pick up/circulation problems that may need mods to sump or maybe dry sump conversion.
The main advantage is that you will be sitting in a Pocket Rocket. Yippeeeee.
Steve
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Hellfire
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 11:12 AM |
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BEC engine is light, noisy (read as beautifully sounding), easy to work on, easy to install, fast, technically sound, but above all reliable.
Regarding longevity - only weak point on some engines is clutch and gearbox depending on driving style.
CEC engine is heavy, quiet (read what you will), easy'ish to work on (weight issue) difficult to install (weight issue) old design, basically
reliable. Weak point therefore is weight...
At the end of the day the choice is yours - go for a test drive in both and make your choice... I know which one most people prefer 
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doughie
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 06:32 PM |
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ta for this info, food for thought...
can any one post some links for me to find out about different BE's?
i have read there are a few used and a few preferred... would like to check their vitals
BEC's do sound fantastic, mmmmmm
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 15/4/06 at 07:15 PM |
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Richard Miles's website has a good review of most of the different engine choices
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russbost
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| posted on 16/4/06 at 09:59 PM |
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Take a good look at what's available9ie don't be a sheep!!), in terms of bang per buck the ZX10 or ZZR 1100 (and maybe the Honda crx1000)
can't be beaten, one of the best in terms of power re weight is the Yam R1 1000, if you want the ultimate in terms of both outright power &,
particularly, torque go for the 'Busa or ZX12 (but be prepared to pay for it!)
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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doughie
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| posted on 17/4/06 at 06:44 AM |
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ta for the info, lots to think about...
if i was looking for a pre 95 engine (eg CBR1000F) how many notes for a rebuild by a professional...approx???
[Edited on 17/4/06 by doughie]
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chaos999
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| posted on 20/4/06 at 03:02 PM |
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As a Triumph fan and cos I have one in my Triton Challenger, don't forget the Triples / Daytona.
Latest Tonas are up the 140 + BHP. On my engine I've remapped and run full race exhaust system it is up at 130 being realistic with an ST.
It's not going to win power struggles but what an engine!
SOund is different and pulls like a train in 6th from 30mph.
Now a Tona with mapping, full race system will happily be 150 - 155 BHP.
Best bit, last week I got an ST engine 2001, incl throttle bodies and loom, the lot for £450 inc VAT!!! Now that's cheaper than my old CBR1000.
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russbost
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| posted on 23/4/06 at 04:07 PM |
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If you're going pre '95, I'd strongly recommend the ZX10 or the ZZR1100 over the Honda - there's no need to rebuild the engine
if you buy a decent one to start with. I'd recommend buying a complete bike & sell off what you don't need on ebay - you'll
probably get at least half your dough back. While the engine is out replace the starter chain(also referred to as alternator drive chain) at a cost of
about £12 including side case gasket, takes less than an hour with the engine out, worthwhile for peace of mind. Otherwise they seem pretty
unburstable 
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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