ruskino80
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| posted on 28/7/06 at 06:19 PM |
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r1 5pw fuel pump cutting out
any ideas on fuel pump cutting out?runs fine on idle- pump always primes-then power to pump is lost?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/7/06 at 06:48 PM |
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Are you actually measuring a loss of power to the pump circuit? Does it cut out when you put it in gear etc, or just when you rev it?
If all else fails just wire it straight to an ignition feed, there's no reason to keep it in the bike circuit as long as you can bypass the
diagnositc codes its removal will probably cause (470 ohm resistor IIRC).
[Edited on 28/7/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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ruskino80
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| posted on 28/7/06 at 06:57 PM |
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seems to cut out whilst in gear (setting off)as you increase revs-power is lost
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/7/06 at 07:48 PM |
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But its rev related rather than when you put it in gear it dies? I ask this because mine did precisely this, the second I put it in gear it died. I
had bypassed the usual sidestand and clutch switches etc but it still did it, in the end I tricked the big multi check relay thing that the engine was
in neutral all the time 
As for your problem, put a multimeter on your fuel pump feed to see if it is actually cutting power when it revs. Is there fuel coming back down the
return feed OK?
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ruskino80
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| posted on 28/7/06 at 07:51 PM |
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thanks chris will check those tommorow-car is not here its at a friends.
by the way how did you trick it re neutral starting-i would prefer mine to be able to start when i want it to?
[Edited on 28/7/06 by ruskino80]
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/7/06 at 08:34 PM |
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When in neutral the neutral switch sensor goes to earth so if you just earth the wire from the relay that usually connects to this sensor, the relay
side of things thinks its in neutral all the time and allows the engine to run.
I think this will upset the bike clocks though as it will show the neutral light all the time and obviously will no longer work as a neutral
indicator, but Im not using those so don't worry about it, Ive just wired the neutral switch directly into my Digidash which works fine.
Chris
[Edited on 28/7/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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speed8
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| posted on 29/7/06 at 05:28 AM |
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This is what I intend to do as the diodes for the sidestand/clutch part of it seem to be fecked.
Plan is to earth the neutral wire directly and then take a 12v feed through the neutral light straight to the switch on the gearbox so that I still
have a neutral light.
If you have the R1 clocks then I guess you could just take the wire that goes from the inst. cluster to the box of tricks and take it straight to the
switch instead.
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ruskino80
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| posted on 29/7/06 at 06:58 AM |
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yes i like that idea should be easy enough to do and maintain the working neutral light cheers.rich
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ruskino80
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| posted on 29/7/06 at 12:12 PM |
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appears to have been a duff tilt sensor!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 29/7/06 at 03:46 PM |
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I just took the tilt sensor out of the system anyway, its designed to work on a bike without lateral G and I couldnt really predict whether hard
cornering could trigger it in the right circumstances and cut the engine mid-corner. I cant remember if its normally closed or normally open, but
obviously just join the wires if the former, and leave them seperate if the latter.
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speed8
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 05:28 AM |
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If I'm not mistaken the tilt sensor requires a 470ohm resistor across two wires. I can't remember what two wires off the top of my head
but I can likely find out.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 11:19 AM |
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Ah you might be right, there's a couple of things that can be bypassed/tricked by a 470ohm resistor, although thinking about it Im not sure why
it would have a resistance in it because its effectively an on/off switch.
cheers
Chris
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speed8
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| posted on 30/7/06 at 02:45 PM |
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That's what I thought at the time. But hey ho.
The AIS has been cut out completely with no joining/resistor do-das. And the Exup has had two wires joined. I'm not using the original clocks
though so I shouldn't have any dancing tachos.
I've cut out the cycle lock completely, cut out the clutch and sidestand completely. I'll take the neutral from the cut out relay direct
to ground and plug in the neutral light as mentioned above. Fingers crossed as I still have some chopping and soldering to tidy it up.
When it finally started it sounded good (without silencer of course) and runs smooth 
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tks
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| posted on 1/8/06 at 07:31 PM |
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mhhh
Well in my loom
the bank angle sensor (is this the tilt sensor??) was just feeding the relais with ground (the relais wich provides coil and injectors with battery
power.
the positive side of that relais came from the kill sensor
i just shorted that sensor to ground (all the wires).
and i use the kill and the contact one on my main smart box
Tks
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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