amalyos
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:28 PM |
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Non-Synthetic oil vs Synthetic?
I currently have Non synthetic in my R1 (not used on road yet, about to SVA), but was wondering what the difference is to fully synthetic, other that
the price  .
I've been told that it may give clutch slip.
Any comments?
Steve.
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Coose
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:35 PM |
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As you can get 4l bottles of synthetic at just over the £30 mark, as opposed to semi for around £20 there's no question really! Especially
bearing in mind that the motor usually gets thrashed to within an inch of its life (once carefully warmed up).
I use Motul 300v or Rock Oil Synthesis 4 - both top quality and protective oils as each other.
[Edited on 29/8/06 by Coose]
Spin 'er off Well...
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nick205
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:47 PM |
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Not familiar with bike engine/g/box set-ups, but why would would using a different oil result in clutch slip - surely if oil is getting on the clutch
then you have an oil leak somewhere?
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Coose
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Not familiar with bike engine/g/box set-ups, but why would would using a different oil result in clutch slip - surely if oil is getting on the clutch
then you have an oil leak somewhere?
Most bikes have wet clutches.... 
Spin 'er off Well...
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amalyos
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Coose
As you can get 4l bottles of synthetic at just over the £30 mark, as opposed to semi for around £20 there's no question really! Especially
bearing in mind that the motor usually gets thrashed to within an inch of its life (once carefully warmed up).
I use Motul 300v or Rock Oil Synthesis 4 - both top quality and protective oils as each other.
[Edited on 29/8/06 by Coose]
If I change to fully synth, do I need to drain the oil and change the filter, or should the system be flushed?
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Coose
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 12:55 PM |
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Just drain the oil, change the filter and refill. No need to flush as they will mix quite happily.
Oil falls in to a similar category as tyres - it just isn't worth skimping on either!
Spin 'er off Well...
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nick205
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 01:36 PM |
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something learnt
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Phil.J
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 02:27 PM |
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Just make sure that you get a bike specific synthetic oil. Most 'car' engine synthetics contain additives to reduce friction even further,
and this can make a bike wet clutch slip under load.
Phil
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Coose
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 02:37 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Phil.J
Just make sure that you get a bike specific synthetic oil. Most 'car' engine synthetics contain additives to reduce friction even further,
and this can make a bike wet clutch slip under load.
Phil
Yep, very true. I forgot to mention that.
Spin 'er off Well...
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StevieB
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 05:02 PM |
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The R1 service manual states SAE20W40SE or SAE10W30SE if it helps.
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scotlad
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 06:30 PM |
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i reckon if the bike engine manufacturers say one type, be it mineraL or synthetic, then thats what to use. After all it was designed with that
specific oil type in mind!
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G.Man
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| posted on 29/8/06 at 07:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scotlad
i reckon if the bike engine manufacturers say one type, be it mineraL or synthetic, then thats what to use. After all it was designed with that
specific oil type in mind!
You would think so wouldnt you, but most manuals actually give options... They give an oil viscosity rating and usually recomomend a good quality semi
or full synthetic..
Only oils with friction modifiers need be avoided for a wet clutch
Opinions are like backsides..
Everyone has one, nobody wants to hear it and only other peoples stink!
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Coose
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 07:49 AM |
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The weight of the oil (i.e. 10W/40, 15W50) just allows for the optimum ambient temperature range. There is a lot of crossovers in these ranges, so
it's not really that critical. The important point is the oil classification (SF, SG, SH, SJ etc....) - this describes the testing processes
that the oil has been through to allow a 'quality' grading. Go for a good synthetic and it will be well up the grading list....
Spin 'er off Well...
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StevieB
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:03 AM |
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What about oil levels? Obviously, bike engines are designed to be mounted in a certain way and under centrifugal force when cornering keeps the oil
in the sump.
Then we come along and stick the engine in a car at a different angle than it's designed for, that corners flat, so the oil moves around but the
engine stays on the same plane.
Does this:
a) Make sense
b) Cause a problem
c) Is it just not worth worrying about?
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Coose
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:06 AM |
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Have a look here.
No disrespect, but BEC sumps, dry/wet sumping and baffling has been done to death. Use
this to find out more!
Spin 'er off Well...
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Coose
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:08 AM |
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Ooooh, StevieB - is that of Steve Smart Roadster fame? If so, helloooo and tell Mark he's fat!
Spin 'er off Well...
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StevieB
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:11 AM |
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I'll shut up then!
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StevieB
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:15 AM |
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Wondered how long it'd take to catch on!
Roadster now gone - got Diesel Volvo (I insisted that the next car is a mans car - even if old mans car!)
Mark's out of the office, so I'll tell him he's fat if he rings up to hassle me about soemthing (usually about 9:30)
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Coose
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| posted on 30/8/06 at 08:20 AM |
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Get some work done you skiver!
It was only once I read your location that it clicked who it was! I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed sometimes (and still slightly hung-over
from Sunday night to be honest!)....
The sump baffle plate on eSkip is what you want (so long as your motor is pre-'03). The man who makes them is a star and does a lovely job.
Then, go to York Yamaha Centre and get a sump gasket and the job's almost done! After fitting the baffle plate, overfill with oil until the
level is at the top of the sight glass when warm and ticking over. It's tried and tested on R1's and seems to work!
p.s. Sorry for the thread hijack!
Spin 'er off Well...
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