Toady1
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 07:38 PM |
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engine position
Ok so Ive got myself a welder, and practiced me welding! (not done it in over 7 years!) So its now time to start welding in mounts and to make my
cradle. My question is, how exactly does the bike engine sit in the bay? Is it at right angles to the driver ie straight inline, or does it follow the
outside edge of the chassis rails? Im thinking its straight...
Also what about the average height it should be? Ive got it on blocks of wood atm in the bay, but i think its a bit low as the sump is very close
(although this will be changed to a billet type one which will be shorter) But more importantly, the oil filter and cooler is very close to the bottom
chassis rail. cheers guys!
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scottc
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 08:40 PM |
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I assume you're going to use a propshaft and I also assume you want it in a straight line, therefore you need the engine central.
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jambojeef
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 08:49 PM |
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Yeah - I know what you mean.
Well mine follows the line of the outermost chassis rails since the clutch slave on the CBR1000 engine can be almost impossible to fit otherwise.
I think your blade will be more or less in a straight line - but its up to you to a large extent.
The things to watch for are clearance of exhaust headers to the top chassis rails (leave enough space for a nice radius of exhaust bend) and carb
float levels / oil level in sump.
If you can winch it up or balance it bearing all these things in mind you will be able to find a happy medium somewhere.
If I were to do mine again I would definately mount the engine higher - I tried to avoid a bonnet bulge but have ended up with about 2" ground
clearance under the sump!
Good luck!
Geoff
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Toady1
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 09:48 PM |
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its injested so no need to worry about carbs and float levels. yes it is using a prop i didnt mean using other methods like a chain etc, what i meant
was it it in line with the out riggers or in a straight line going down the chassis.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 19/3/07 at 10:11 PM |
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What I did with my R1 in a book chassis was put some 1" blocks under the chassis then sit the engine on the ground inside the chassis and use
that as a base point, so the sump hangs that 1" below the lower chassis rail. You may have more chassis depth with an Indy chassis though, so
might be able to get it flush with the bottom of the car and still not need a huge bonnet bulge?
As to the angle of it, there seem to be people in each camp but personally Id suggest if you can get a reasonably straight prop without angling along
the side chassis rail, Id do that because it can't be ideal having the prop UJ running at a significant angle all the time
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 01:46 PM |
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I thought the prop angle wasn't a big deal, a few degrees is fine, and so having it centralised in the tunnel isn't important. Actually
if the UJ's don't do anything then that is bad for them isn't it.
The important thing is for the faces of the UJ's to be parallel front and rear. This is because they are UJ and not CV and hence you can get
vibration if they are not parallel.
The big factor is chassis rail header interference, and getting the whole thing level (front to back).
The trick of resting it on the ground, and moving chassis seemed to work for me.
If you are buying a pre-made manifold/headers then that is a bigger consideration than most of this!
Matt
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 06:09 PM |
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Hi Matt
Yep a completely straight prop isn't ideal either, and a few degrees in total is fine (up to ~15 degrees IIRC), but you need to add up the
angles in both directions, ie the angle when looking at the prop from the side as well as when looking at it from the top.
If your prop is dead in line from the top but the gearbox flange is higher than the diff flange, you've still got some angle on the prop so all
should be OK.
Most chassis rails must be a good 15-20 degrees from the north/south parallel Id think so that in combination with any vertical angle as well could
cause problems.
quote:
The important thing is for the faces of the UJ's to be parallel front and rear. This is because they are UJ and not CV and hence you can get
vibration if they are not parallel.
Yep that can also have a detrimental effect and if you want to strictly adhere to that best practices, it pretty much rules out anything other than a
straight engine because unless you also mount your diff at the same angle as the chassis rail, you can't get your output flange parallel with
the diff flange if the engine is mounted along the side rail.
cheers
Chris
[Edited on 20/3/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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Toady1
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 07:01 PM |
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cheers!
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 09:15 PM |
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The engine on my mk blade is mounted 2.25 inches in from the top rail, paralel to the same top rail ( measured to the main flat edge of the of the
rocker cover ) The bottom of the sump sits 2 inches below the bottom of the of the lower chassis rails ( not including the sump plug ). The blade is
easy to mount just place the main flat part of the sump on a couple 3/4 inch strips of wood to clear the sump plug then put 2.75 inch packing peices
under the chassis and that will give you the 2 inch clearance . then get in touch with ChrisGamlin to move the sump plug.
Tony
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JoelP
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| posted on 20/3/07 at 09:41 PM |
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mine was parallel to the centre line but offset towards the drivers feet, as far as the prop would allow in the tunnel.
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Toady1
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| posted on 21/3/07 at 08:29 PM |
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mad butcher, mines a 954cc so a bit different.
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