ChrisS
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 08:56 PM |
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R1 Baffle Plate
Has anyone fitted a baffle plate in a 99>01 R1.
Its just that i brought one andthe instructions with it say that you should remove the oil pressure sensor in order to fit the baffle, as it isnt
possible for the baffle to fit without making a hole in it, as it is a reason to cause oil surge by having another hole!
Surely by fitting a baffle and making a small hole for the oil pressure sensor would make no difference, as opposed to not having a baffle.
Any Thoughts?
Also is it advisable, and easy to do to drill the holes into the web for fixing the baffle round the pickup area?
Thanks
ChrisS
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 09:09 PM |
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Hi Chris
I assume you're talking about the oil level sensor? If so, it's not really of much use in a BEC (and no use at all if you're
not using the bike clocks) so I'd just cut it down personally (what I did).
You can get baffles with a hole to fit the sender through but evidently it can cause a bit of surge. My original baffle had a hole in it for the
sender and I never experienced surge, however the plate did eventually crack in that area due to the lack of metal, so another good reason to go
without IMHO. My new one doesn't have a hole so I cut the sender down.
As to the drilling / tapping the web, you certainly need to do it on the far side of the water pump (the thin "arm of the baffle), but I didnt
bother in the main body area as the pickup etc holds it there fine. A couple of tips when threading it, firstly put a big dollop of grease around the
web to catch swarf, and secondly do it in situ when the engine is in the car with you lying underneath, that way 99% of the swarf falls away from the
engine internals anyway.
Chris
[Edited on 13/7/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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ChrisS
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 09:20 PM |
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Thanks for the advice chris.
I am using the R1 clocks, as i got this little "yellow box" to adjust the speed etc.
As for drilling in situ, i wasnt planning on doing it like that purely for ease of access, but thought id mask up the area and do it on the side on
the bench to avoid swarf.
Im not looking forward to doing, as it actually the next job to do, but ill go careful. Do you use m6 and loctite?
Cheers
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lsdweb
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 09:28 PM |
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Chris
I did the same as ChrisGamlin - no oil level sensor. I drilled the holes from underneath, with the engine on my B&D workbench with the jaws open.
I did it very slowly and it was no problem - I was very nervous though!
Regards
Wyn
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 09:36 PM |
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Yep M5 or M6 (i think the latter) dome head bolt and a blob of threadlock.
Even with the bike clocks though, the level sender is unlikely to be a lot of use because in a BEC the you'll be running the oil at a higher
level, and as this level is more critical (for surge reasons) if it gets down far enough to trigger the light, at best you've been badly
neglecting the oil level checking and at worse the engine will have already gone pop due to surge.
[Edited on 13/7/07 by ChrisGamlin]
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 13/7/07 at 10:41 PM |
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As Chris says making a hole for the sender leaves it prone to breaking but probably less so if made from decent ally or steel.
So long as it's snug(ish) fit the surge worries when having the oil level sensor and cut out is cobblers in my opinion.
- Jim
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hobbsy
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| posted on 14/7/07 at 01:56 PM |
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Mine old (Allbikes) sump plate cracked in a few places, also near the cut out for the oil level switch so on ChrisG's advice I chopped the oil
level switch and left the plate alone.
If I fitted one again I guess I'd be tempted to go for steel.
I had the same concerns when drilling into the webbing, whoever fitted the Allbikes one didn't bother to do this (which may well have
contributed to its demise). I did post some pics of the cracks etc (also the tulip disintegrated a bit - luckily I found all the bits in the oil
strainer) if you do a search using my username you'll probably find them easily.
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