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Author: Subject: R1 engine mods/requirements
Adam

posted on 17/7/07 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
R1 engine mods/requirements

I've been doing a lot of reading on this forum....it's great for the info.

From my past couple of post's some of you will know i'm fitting an R1 2000 engine into a MK Indy. I was wondering if there was list any where or a how to on the install of the R1 engine. I just want to make sure i have everything covered before i put in. every time i look at something i learn something new...eg.. exup fitting on the dash or the removal of the AIS system etc etc.

Any pointers or links would be great.

Cheers
adam

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zxrlocost

posted on 17/7/07 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
overfil with a little oil 250ml

I never bothered with any engine mods to the sump etc and thrashed the living day lights out of it never missed a beat

although people do fit baffle plates etc

EXUP Under dash? when you lay the loom out in your car youll find it ends up more at the nosecone end from memory id just leave it there no one will see it

nothing else really get it running SVA'd then look at dyno kits etc

ta chris






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zxrlocost

posted on 17/7/07 at 10:00 PM Reply With Quote
overfil with a little oil 250ml

I never bothered with any engine mods to the sump etc and thrashed the living day lights out of it never missed a beat

although people do fit baffle plates etc

EXUP Under dash? when you lay the loom out in your car youll find it ends up more at the nosecone end from memory id just leave it there no one will see it

nothing else really get it running SVA'd then look at dyno kits etc

ta chris






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zxrlocost

posted on 17/7/07 at 10:09 PM Reply With Quote
oh yeah clutch and sidestand switch will stop the engine from starting

Im sure some one will know the wire colours off by heart I can only think of the fireblade loom at the moment






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amalyos

posted on 18/7/07 at 07:05 AM Reply With Quote
Add an additional clutch spring, it helps with the clutch feel.

Steve







http://stevembuild.blogspot.com

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nitram38

posted on 18/7/07 at 07:32 AM Reply With Quote
Well I've spent £1850 on a 700 mile engine (05) from yorkshire engines. so I have not taken any chances.
I have fitted a sump baffle plate (I have a few spares for 04 engine onwards) and a barnett clutch. LynxAe racing swear by using an Accusump for racing. Cheapest set up is about£250.
The barnett clutch has more surface area than the standard plates and uprated springs.
I am still debating wether to strip the engine loom down to a minimum or use the existing fues etc to run the lighting etc. Cars tend to have seperate fuses for lights so that you don't lose them all when one fuse blows.

[Edited on 18/7/2007 by nitram38]






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fesycresy

posted on 18/7/07 at 07:36 AM Reply With Quote
The easiest way with the wiring is to lay it out under the scuttle and extend the wires to the engine. That way you don't end up with loads of wiring under the nose cone. There may be some photo's in my archive.

Mount the rectifier in the tunnel mouth - I didn't need to extend my wiring to this, it fell in place perfectly.

My EXUP went under the dash on a plate with other odds and sods.

I didn't remove my AIS - but in hindsight I should have. I've been lead to believe that the SVA is easier with it removed.

I baffled my sump and for £50 it's got to be worth it. But as said by Chris, quite a few people haven't bothered with no problems.

Buy a Barnett clutch if you're feeling flush !

HTH

Lyn





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nitram38

posted on 18/7/07 at 07:42 AM Reply With Quote
The barnett clutch and springs was only £90 on ebay, brand new.
I am building an Atom looky likey and I didn't know that you could extend the engine loom without altering resistances for the ecu?
Extending it would be good on mine as then the engine area would be less cluttered.
My sump baffle cost £70 but I have had a batch cnc'd and recouped some of my money pretty quickly. I still have 7-8 left.
No ex-up as I am using a V2 vepor dash.
What does AIS stand for?
I have an injection engine and will be using a power commander, cat and innovate wide band gauge to get me through sva.
I am a long way off the wiring stage but I have a few ideas and other gizmos to connect: trickshifter, electric reverse etc.

[Edited on 18/7/2007 by nitram38]






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zxrlocost

posted on 18/7/07 at 09:13 AM Reply With Quote
its an air induction system that works of crankcase pressure and pumps air into the exhaust ports after the mixture/combustion

hth chris






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nitram38

posted on 18/7/07 at 09:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zxrlocost
its an air induction system that works of crankcase pressure and pumps air into the exhaust ports after the mixture/combustion

hth chris


I know what you mean now. I won't be removing it as I believe that it helps with emmissions?
The power commander and cat should take care of the "sva Map"






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