jonah
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 07:37 PM |
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What engine
Hi All,
I'm just about to start my BEC locost. I've been going around in circles about what engine kit to go for. I nearly bought a damaged
busa a few weeks ago but decided not to because the head had damage.
Can anybody help? Cost is a big factor but not the only factor that will decided what I go for, I want a very fast car!!! (in normal car terms) not
driveability or a good motorway car, but i don't want to go down the turbo road. I would like to buy and fit something as a standard unit.
I've been looking at the obvious, R1, ZX9R, blade etc. but how do you all decided what to go for? What's the ultimate deciding
factor?
All coments more than welcome.
Thanks
Jonah
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RichardK
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 07:42 PM |
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Not sure where you are from but you could try Malc from Yorkshire Engines, he posts on here so do a search and you should find him and drop him a u2u,
always gets good comments about the stuff he sells and good customer service from what I hear.
Regards
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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gordon
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 07:51 PM |
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Hi
good to see you gone for bec no matter what you go for it will feel fast. I went for zx9 can be brought for little money and are a strong engine.
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 08:22 PM |
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I would use the following formula to decide if I was contemplating a new build.
£££'s v BHP = ZX12
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fesycresy
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 08:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
I would use the following formula to decide if I was contemplating a new build.
£££'s v BHP = ZX12
Where did you got to school ?
£££'s v BHP = R1
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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Guinness
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 08:55 PM |
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Ison, Fesy, detention.
£ x BHP = ZZR1100 ! £250 for a kit and 147 bhp as standard? That's £1.70 per horse!
But assuming you want a modern fuel injected engine with minimum miles on it, easy parts availability I'd go ZX12 now too!
Mike
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Jon Ison
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 08:58 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by fesycresy
quote:
Originally posted by Jon Ison
I would use the following formula to decide if I was contemplating a new build.
£££'s v BHP = ZX12
Where did you got to school ?
£££'s v BHP = R1
oi i lerned toooo speel as skool 2
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 09:11 PM |
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some big BHP engines need dry sumping, which costs serious cash. Do a search to find out whatr you can/can not use without sorting it.
Blade/r1/busa/zx9r are the commen ones - and these will hold there value better than zzr1100 or other less commenly used engines.
Don't overlook loom, carbs (or TB's), lock sets (some newer engines will only work with original keys), ECU's. clocks. some of these
go for stupid cash, so look into each engine properly.
I chose an older fireblade engine, as ancilleries are cheap as are the engines if it ever goes pop, plus it will be worth a bit if I ever sold up.
r1 was my second choice, but it would have cost more. I am on track to get the entire BEC transplant includng prop, cradle, clocks etc for £1000 all
in.
which will be a lot of bang for my buck.
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jonah
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| posted on 29/10/07 at 10:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dangle_kt
some big BHP engines need dry sumping, which costs serious cash. Do a search to find out whatr you can/can not use without sorting it.
Blade/r1/busa/zx9r are the commen ones - and these will hold there value better than zzr1100 or other less commenly used engines.
This is the type of thing i'm after, I really want the best for my money without being caught out somewhere at a later date with dry sumps and
locked out ecu's.
Are there any hard a fast rules about what needs dry sumping etc. ??
Thanks all
Keep them coming...
Jonah
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Dangle_kt
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 12:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jonah
quote:
Originally posted by Dangle_kt
some big BHP engines need dry sumping, which costs serious cash. Do a search to find out whatr you can/can not use without sorting it.
Blade/r1/busa/zx9r are the commen ones - and these will hold there value better than zzr1100 or other less commenly used engines.
This is the type of thing i'm after, I really want the best for my money without being caught out somewhere at a later date with dry sumps and
locked out ecu's.
Are there any hard a fast rules about what needs dry sumping etc. ??
Thanks all
Keep them coming...
Jonah
I'd use the search function to find out, as some are questionable - some say it needs sumping, some dont. I know that the BUSA defo needs it,
and as far as I am concerned i will not be dry sumping my blade engine as lots have managed without with no issues. Id dotn want to comment on
anymore, as misinformation is the last thing you need!
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 30/10/07 at 12:38 PM |
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Personally I still think the early injected (02-03) R1 engine takes a lot of beating for performance, reliability and ease of install, although the
ZX12 is also a good candidate. The ZX9 and blades are also good choices although having upgraded from a carbed blade to an 03 R1 I can't really
see any reason to pick an older blade (or a ZX9) over the R1 unless you're really trying to keep the budget right down, or are planning on
competing in a specific race class like RGB.
Whatever way you go though, if you don't want hassle during the install then I'd suggest not trying to be a pioneer with the latest engine
with 10bhp more, and pick an engine that's been installed regularly by others. Its also worth remembering that some older engines may look cheap
for the power on paper, but often you can't get off-the-shelf items for them like you can with blades / R1s / ZX9s etc, which cancels out a lot
of the initial cost saving needing bespoke manifolds etc made up.
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