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Author: Subject: R1 Sump Baffle - which one?
Nosbod

posted on 15/11/07 at 01:01 AM Reply With Quote
R1 Sump Baffle - which one?

Hi,

Can anyone recommend which sump baffle to buy for my carbed R1 ? I have found 3 different ones and not sure which to go for:-

- John Rarity (e-bay)
- Fluke Motorsport
- MNR Motorsport.

Or should i not even bother and just overfill?

Thanks in advance.

Chris.

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russbost

posted on 15/11/07 at 08:17 AM Reply With Quote
Talk to Nitram 38 on here, he does them & I believe, will be able to advise what fits what.HTH

Martin, send my commision to ..............................





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locoboy

posted on 15/11/07 at 11:18 AM Reply With Quote
Also Progers (paul Rogers) who is a member on here does them.





ATB
Locoboy

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progers

posted on 15/11/07 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the plug loco but I have now run out of stock and won't be doing any more.

From the list above you will find that 1 and 2 are the same. Johnathan rarity supplies Fluke with his baffles.

I'd go with the cheapest, they are all fine

Paul

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stuart_g

posted on 15/11/07 at 02:23 PM Reply With Quote
I have just fitted a Yorkshire engines baffle plate to my 05 R1 supplied to me by MNR. These are made from thicker alloy so there is no need to drill and tap the crank web to stop it potentially flapping around in the oil as per the fluke motorsport web site.

Can't comment on any of the others as I have not seen them.

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 15/11/07 at 07:57 PM Reply With Quote
I can personally recommend Jonathon's plates, top quality and a first class service.

As to the flexing issue, Im not sure you'd want a baffle thick enough that the dog-leg bit had no chance of breaking, because the baffle plate displaces the various pipes and pickup that connect into the underside of the engine by whatever thickness it is. If you had a plate that was very thick, Id imagine the oil pickup could be too close to the sump floor, or the U shape bolt-in oilway might not seal properly on its o-rings.

Although it may be thicker than JR's (1.6mm from memory), I suspect they're probably not a huge amount thicker in which case for the sake of the relatively easy job of tapping the web, I'd personally still put a retaining bolt in. Having had a blade baffle plate fatigue crack in several places from pure vibrations despite it not having any flexible dog-leg type segment, I wouldn't risk it.

cheers
Chris

[Edited on 15/11/07 by ChrisGamlin]






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stuart_g

posted on 15/11/07 at 09:26 PM Reply With Quote
This baffle plate does not sit under the oil pick up pipe it is cut around it so no issues with the pick up being disturbed it is exactly as it was without the baffle.
The baffle is held in place by the U shaped oil pipe mounting lugs and there is no way of the O rings not sealing properly as the pipes and O rings go into the engine about 10mm.

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ChrisGamlin

posted on 15/11/07 at 10:21 PM Reply With Quote
Ah OK, if it isnt held by the oil pickup though, then Id be even more inclined to bolt it in on the dog-leg as the oil pickup is the closest point.

I agree there's a couple of deep recesses of about 10mm that the oil pipe slots into but from what I remember the tube itself has a shoulder on it to prevent the O ring moving too far, and when fitting mine I was a bit concerned that if the shoulder didn't sit flush with the edge of the casting its pushing into, the O ring could blow out.

(picture paints a thousand words and all that!)

[Edited on 15/11/07 by ChrisGamlin]






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