pmc_3
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| posted on 18/9/22 at 08:18 PM |
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BEC gear lever mounting
Hi all, has anyone got any pictures of how the brackets they used to mount gear lever to the chassis? I've got one of the shorter MNR alloy ones
https://shop.mnrsportscars.com/collections/controls/products/alloy-g
earlever I can't decide on the easiest/neatest way to do it.
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Sanzomat
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| posted on 19/9/22 at 08:35 AM |
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Is this for the GTM Coupe noted in your sig or something else? Happy to share how mine is mounted in my Locost 7 but no pictures I'm afraid.
Pretty simple on the 7. Basically M10 holes drilled right across the top tubes of the tunnel frames horizontally. A length of M10 allthread studding
passed right through the frame. As it goes through it passes through, in sequence, a washer, 2nr M10 plain nuts, 2 more M10 plain nuts, another
washer, top hat brass bush M10 internal, 20mm external, turned down to 14mm for half the width of the lever. Lever pivot hole opened out to 14.5,
another identical brass bush the other way around, a washer, 2 more M10 plain nuts then two more M10 nuts and another washer. The allthread is
slightly shorter than the outside width of the tunnel frame. the outer nuts are tightened (just or you risk crushing the tubes) against the inside of
the tunnel frame then the lock nuts tightened against them. The inner nuts are adjusted to position the pivot bushes where you want them side to side
then tightened and lock nutted. This has worked fine on mine for many years.
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40inches
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| posted on 19/9/22 at 09:39 AM |
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Relatively simple on a Seven as Sanzomat says:
 
Brake line
 
Reverse panel
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pmc_3
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| posted on 19/9/22 at 12:08 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Sanzomat
Is this for the GTM Coupe noted in your sig or something else? Happy to share how mine is mounted in my Locost 7 but no pictures I'm afraid.
Pretty simple on the 7. Basically M10 holes drilled right across the top tubes of the tunnel frames horizontally. A length of M10 allthread studding
passed right through the frame. As it goes through it passes through, in sequence, a washer, 2nr M10 plain nuts, 2 more M10 plain nuts, another
washer, top hat brass bush M10 internal, 20mm external, turned down to 14mm for half the width of the lever. Lever pivot hole opened out to 14.5,
another identical brass bush the other way around, a washer, 2 more M10 plain nuts then two more M10 nuts and another washer. The allthread is
slightly shorter than the outside width of the tunnel frame. the outer nuts are tightened (just or you risk crushing the tubes) against the inside of
the tunnel frame then the lock nuts tightened against them. The inner nuts are adjusted to position the pivot bushes where you want them side to side
then tightened and lock nutted. This has worked fine on mine for many years.
It's a Dutton Phaeton I'm doing a restomod on.
 2022-07
-11 13.18.03 by Pete Clayton, on Flickr
Thanks for the suggestions I hadn't thought of doing it that way.
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ReMan
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| posted on 19/9/22 at 05:54 PM |
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Heres mine.
Still working!
 
Rescued attachment g2.JPG
www.plusnine.co.uk
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nick205
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| posted on 21/9/22 at 07:59 AM |
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Excuse my lack of knowledge here - do these work with puch/pull cables to change the gears?
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40inches
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| posted on 21/9/22 at 08:25 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Excuse my lack of knowledge here - do these work with puch/pull cables to change the gears?
Yes Nick, or in my case rods/tubes
 
Shiny Gearlever
[Edited on 21-9-22 by 40inches]
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nick205
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| posted on 21/9/22 at 09:19 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
Excuse my lack of knowledge here - do these work with puch/pull cables to change the gears?
Yes Nick, or in my case rods/tubes
Shiny Gearlever
[Edited on 21-9-22 by 40inches]
Thanks - thinking about it, on a motorbike you'd be changing gear with your foot pushing/pulling a lever directly connected to the gearbox.
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ReMan
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| posted on 21/9/22 at 09:40 PM |
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My picture above is the lever driving a push pul cable
www.plusnine.co.uk
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