the moa 2
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 09:59 PM |
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Calling all R1 bec
In the middle of sorting my R1 conversion and am still undersided on which gearlinkage system to go for so thought id re use this common post.
copy n paste......
Few Q&A's
1. What year and model of engine
2. What air filter set up
3. What exhaust system
4. What Diff and wheel sizes
5. What type of gear linkage - cable/solid links
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the moa 2
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 10:04 PM |
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1. not bought yet but was thinking carbs
2. Want to stick with original airbox (will this fit under the GTS taller bonnet ? )
3. Custom made equal lenth 4-2-1
4. I think its a 3.89 & 13 195 60
5. Was thinking cable as the RGB boys use it so must be the way to go.
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Triton
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 10:10 PM |
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Triumph Triple is a better bet as cheaper and make a mad noise......oh and it's British
My Daughter has taken over production of the damn fine Triton race seats and her contact email is emmatrs@live.co.uk.
www.tritonraceseats.com
www.hairyhedgehog.com
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OX
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| posted on 24/12/05 at 11:44 PM |
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1. What year and model of engine
yamaha R1 fuel injected,but id think twice about using the new 180bhp engine type .
2. What air filter set up
not sure if the r1 air box will fit under your bonnet upside down.
if it doesnt use a sock filter
3. What exhaust system
4-2-1 ,they look nicer and i believe they give better lower end response but i dont know if anyone can notice much difference
4. What Diff and wheel sizes
all i can say is shed has a 3.92 diff in his ri indy with 15inch wheels and 50 or 60 profile tyres and his car seems to be screaming every where.
i used a 3.62 and 17 inch wheels in my R1 indy and thought it was just right,
5. What type of gear linkage - cable/solid links
i did the solid link twice and cant fault it.
i think the cable idea is a good idea tho but iv heard and read of a few people changing back to solid link.
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progers
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| posted on 25/12/05 at 09:55 AM |
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1) I used a 2001 carb model in my original Indy - its a good motor.
2) Used a piper cross "sausage" filter, managed to get it to fit under the bonnet of the indy. I think you will be struggling with a
GTS/Locost unless you have a scoop on the bonnet
3) Custom 4-2-1 its worth spending the extra money here as it definitely releases more horses :-)
4) I would recommend a 3.62 diff with the R1 (even though I used a 3.38) mainly as you can get an LSD relatively cheaply. I would not use a 3.89. I
used 15" wheels with 195/50 tyres. Use that or 13" 185/80 (front) 205/60 (rear). Don't go 17" please (I won't say why as
I'll go into rant mode)
5) I used cable. Mechanical or cable can both be good its really down to how well they are implemented. Cable needs to be short and mounted on
substantial brackets to eliminate flex.
Other things :-
Uprate the clutch (remove the anti-judder mechanism and replace with standard friction) and beef up the spring
Fit a baffle plate
If going Carb make dure you rejet it properly before givingit any stick. Try and source a 200/2001 motor if you can. They are significantly stronger
in the clutch/gearbox than earlier models.
Cheers
Paul
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cossey
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| posted on 25/12/05 at 08:16 PM |
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1. 2005 172bhp one (havent bought it yet but will be in the next month or so) there seem to be a fair few new engines with only a couple of hundred
miles on them for not too bad money)
2. im going for a custom airbox ducted to a vent near the front so cool air plus less noise as i dont want to be caught out on any trackdays with low
limits
3. 4-2-1 possibly using richard miles's design or one tweaked to remove the flat spot of the new engine round 7k rpm.
4. 13" 185/80 (front) 205/60 (rear) with a 3.2 freelander, 3.38s are too rare so im not holding out much on getting one and the 3.62 is a bit
short for motorway use (im building a fury so aero body and a curved windscreen should make it more civilised at high speeds)
5. cable with proper brackets should feel direct enough.
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speed8
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| posted on 26/12/05 at 05:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by the moa 2
1. What year and model of engine
2003 R1
2. What air filter set up
Don't know yet but likely ITG
3. What exhaust system
Probably Richard Miles design
4. What Diff and wheel sizes
13's with 185/70 on front and 205/60 on rear
5. What type of gear linkage - cable/solid links
Solid
Edited because I read the last question as throttle linkage..... too much christmas spirit!!!
[Edited on 12/26/05 by speed8]
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Bob C
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| posted on 26/12/05 at 07:15 PM |
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1) 99 carbs
2) tbd - pipercross probably
3) MK 421
4) 3.14 - 14"
5) rods & rosejoints!
Bob
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Coose
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 10:54 AM |
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1. What year and model of engine
Mine's an '01 (carb). It's up to you really! Don't forget the baffle plate (available from various sources - mine's a
JB7). I wouldn't bother touching the clutch until you wear out the existing one - mine has had 3000 miles of abuse and is still absolutely fine!
Why replace something when you don't need to? I'd recommend sticking with genuine plates though when you do - they really can't be
beaten!
2. What air filter set up
I have a Pipercross 'sausage' type, with a TTS jet kit. It works superbly, though I have a set of Keihin FCR flatslides for it too, which
I haven't yet got around to trying....
3. What exhaust system
Mine is a bespoke 4-2-1 to Rich Miles 'All-bikes' design. It works beautifully, looks superb and cost just over £400. I'd say it was
worth it!
4. What Diff and wheel sizes
I use a 3.54 diff (live axle), though I had the original 3.89 in for a bit. It went like stink but topped out at 110-ish! I'm using
205/60-13's on the back. I think that 13's look sooooooooo much better than 15's! (hopes not to start a 'discussion'
with that statement!  )
5. What type of gear linkage - cable/solid links
Solid rod paddle shift. You'd be daft not to, bearing in mind the location of the gearchange shaft on the motor! Mine consists of two rods, a
bell-crank, the paddle, four rose joints and a home-made bush for the bell crank. It works great, with no backlash and instant gearchanges, and has to
be more reliable than the electronic one's! (Hopes not to start a 'discussion' about that either.... )
[Edited on 28/12/05 by Coose]
Spin 'er off Well...
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 03:48 PM |
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1. What year and model of engine
2003 FI "5PW" engine
2. What air filter set up
Currently an open sausage filter (ITG) but I'll be fitting a custom airbox before it ets rolling roaded to keep trackday noise down
3. What exhaust system
Custom made 4-2-1 system built to British Superbike spec lengths
4. What Diff and wheel sizes
3.54 Live axle with 185/60-13" tyres, although it could do with 205's for faster circuits as it currently tops out just under 120mph
5. What type of gear linkage - cable/solid links
Solid, using a very simple bell crank arrangement (pics in photo archive)- the R1 has such a well positioned gear change arm, making it more simple
than most others to get a linkage on it. A friend converted his Westie blade from linkage to cable and is now converting back again because he doesnt
like the feel of the cable.
[Edited on 28/12/05 by ChrisGamlin]
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the moa 2
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 08:31 PM |
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COOSE
Do you have any pics of your paddle shift or any advice on how to make one ie rod lenths etc and how or where you got the actual steering paddle
part?
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skydivepaul
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| posted on 28/12/05 at 10:42 PM |
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1. What year and model of engine '99 carbs
2. What air filter set up. standard air box and filter but will be upgrading to a K&N, I have been recommended to keep the existing air box as
they flow better than a a TTS type filter. will have it rejetted and rolling road set up at the same time. The airbox fits under the MK bonnet with
bulge. See pics
3. What exhaust system. MK 4-2-1
4. What Diff and wheel sizes 3.89 and 15" with 195-50-15 yokos and Avpn ACB10 for track days
5. What type of gear linkage - solid link tunnel mount. works great, but i might upgrade to a solid link on the steering column.
cheers
Paul
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Coose
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 11:46 AM |
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There are a couple of pics of my linkage here....
http://www.ne7ers.co.uk/modules.php?set_albumName=albun01&op=modload&name=Gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
I used an equal length bell crank, and if I remember rightly the rod from the paddle is something like 100mm from the pivot centre. I'd have to
measure it again to be exact. I have a luvly JB7 milled ali paddle to go on there, which I haven't got around to fitting yet - the one in the
pics was knocked together to test it and has never been changed!
The paddle doesn't rotate with the wheel, but it doesn't need to - I'm using a 2.5 turns rack and the paddle has never been easily
out of reach!
I'd highly recommend going down a similar route, as like I said, which the gearchange shaft on the motor being where it is you'd be daft
not to! 
Spin 'er off Well...
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the moa 2
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| posted on 29/12/05 at 10:06 PM |
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It look so simple !
But im sure its not .
How much pressure do you have to use to change the gears, Could you just use a couple of fingers or does it need the hole 4 ?
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Coose
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| posted on 4/1/06 at 08:51 AM |
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It's very simple indeed! What you see is what you get!
I use probably two fingers, though they are third and little fingers. You can easily use one though....
Spin 'er off Well...
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 4/1/06 at 04:53 PM |
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1. What year and model of engine
2003 Inj (5PW)
2. What air filter set up
Modified Airbox
3. What exhaust system
4-2-1 Powerspeed
4. What Diff and wheel sizes
3.38 hybrid LSD (14" wheels with 185-60-14)
5. What type of gear linkage - cable/solid links .
STM - Rose Joined Bar
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