gttman
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 posted on 2/2/06 at 12:32 PM |
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R1 Starting
Ok I know this is done to death but I've read a long way back and can't find comments appropriate to my starting problem.
I have a 2002-3 injected R1 engine using the clocks, its all wired up with no faults displayed on the dash now.
Basically I don't have fuel.
Engine turns over a treat with spark and fuel pump is providing pressure to the fuel rail. However it doesn't even hint of fireing.
Diagnostic checks switch the fuel relay and injorts on ok and throttle sensor is providing data.
Finally if I drain a little petrol from the tank and drible it down the throttle bodies it fires imediatelly.
So all the fuel checks say everything is fine, however there is no fuel on starting.
I have noted that the engine warning light flashes when I hit the starter, and I'm sure this is telling me the fuel system is deactivated......
I just can't seem to work out why?
any ideas?
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ChrisBradley04
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 01:38 PM |
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Just to clarify, by diagnostic checks you have run the clocks in diagnostic mode to check the fuel system (the one where you press and hold the two
buttons for 10 seconds etc.).
If so, is the pump running when you are pressing the starter button? That will discount a few of the potential problems.
Also, did you check the fuel pressure. I tend to pull off the return pipe and let fuel run into a pot rather than back to the tank. Not very safe,
but you can get a good idea that the fuel is flowing at high enough pressure to bypass the regulator (about 3 bar). You should see a good volume of
fuel too.
The other thing I would check is the resistance across the injectors at the ECU end of the loom. Just disconnect ECU and take measurements and check
they are all the same (can't remember figure but about 450 ohms rings a bell but I would check). It will show any wiring faults in injector loom
which ECU has failed to spot.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Chris
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 01:55 PM |
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I've re-checked everything and just found that there is no fuel getting past the pressure regulator.... there is quite a high pressure in the
pipe before it as it sprayed everywere.
so either the regulator or the injection fuel pump.......
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 02:01 PM |
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Just to answer your question yep the pump does run and seems to be providing pressure. guess I need to establish if the regulator is working properly
and go from there.
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smart51
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 02:04 PM |
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If there is pressure between the pump and the regulator then the pump is doing something. The regulator should limit the fuel pressure to 3 bar not
be closed until the pressure is above 3 bar. Try swapping out the regulator.
Heres a question. Would it be dangerous to take out the regulator and run it straight from the pump just for a quick test to see if it fires up?
That would prove that the regulator is the fault. I wouldn't want to recommend it if it would be dangerous.
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 02:11 PM |
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i thought this was how regulators worked (ie only closed when needed to)...... just on the phone to yamaha to get a price.
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 02:20 PM |
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£1000 +vat anyone!!!!!
thats quite a lot for a pressure regulator worth about £20new max.
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ChrisBradley04
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 02:22 PM |
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Smart 51,
That's an interesting point about the regulator. My understanding was that the fuel pressure had to exceed the regulated pressure (around 3 bar)
to pass the regulator. In this way, the fuel pressure is a constant and therefore the variable is the time the injector is open. (I appreciate that
vacuum alters regulated pressure of regulator with revs etc. )
The reason I mention it, is pump could be generating 2.5 bar pressure and not passing regulator as I see it (so pump issue), but it if you are correct
then even a lower pressure pump would bypass the regualtor (so regulator issue).
It would be great to know either way for future.
Edit - Just reread above posts. I think you are talking about a carb engined fuel regulator who's job is to limit pressure at carbs i.e. keep
pressure below 3psi. The FI regulators have a role of mainitaining constant pressure, so only release pressure when it exceeds the preset value.
I would reckon on the pump or plumbing given what has been said so far.
[Edited on 2/2/06 by ChrisBradley04]
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 03:16 PM |
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I know this sounds silly question but you arent trying to feed fuel in via the regulator are you.
The regulator connects to the fuel tank return (the regulator is fed via the fuel rail).
- Jim
[Edited on 2/2/06 by jimgiblett]
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 03:33 PM |
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You are a star.... this is exactly what I am doing.
bugger work, I'm off to see if I can start the thing right now.
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smart51
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 03:38 PM |
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yes of course, my mistake. £1000 for a regulator? or a new engine? Anyway, it seems like you can get it sorted now.
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 03:43 PM |
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yipeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
it started first turn of the key.
BTW for those that havn't figured it yet I normally post as andygtt but can't get into my user id at the moment.
Chris..... I got this engine from you so I knew it worked which is why I was so frustraighted.
Taken me more time to sort this stupid mistake than to get the car to a rolling chassis with ready to run engine.
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 03:44 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by gttman
You are a star.... this is exactly what I am doing.
bugger work, I'm off to see if I can start the thing right now.
Nice easy fix then. Let us know how you get on .
- Jim
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 04:33 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by smart51
yes of course, my mistake. £1000 for a regulator? or a new engine? Anyway, it seems like you can get it sorted now.
the regulator
they only sell it as part of the throttle bodies etc.... wanted £300+ for a pump.
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gttman
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| posted on 2/2/06 at 07:17 PM |
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its fully rolling already..... now the wireing is sorted and egine started I recon I will be SVA'ing next month.
I've gota sort the brakes out, as whilst the discs are on I need to make adapters to fit the cailpers front & rear and then modify the car
to take a duel cylinder balance bar.
With half tank of fuel and only the seats and some of the body/lights to add it weighs exactly 424kgs..... I recon its on target for 470kgs fully wet
which wont be bad considering the wheels and brakes.
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gttman
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| posted on 4/2/06 at 08:43 AM |
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Yep I was using your cars weight as the measure....
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