Gav
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 10:17 AM |
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Paddle shift linkage
After a few nights with the lathe and welder ive managed to get my shift linkage done, may look a little clunky but heyho seems to work 
How does other peoples shiftrs feel?
this seems to be ok going up the box and retuns to center nicley but going back down it needs a little encouragement to return to center.
I may need to shorten the lever on the engine later as ive not really allowed room for the master cylinder.
[Edited on 28/5/06 by Gav]
[Edited on 28/5/06 by Gav]
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 10:26 AM |
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if its returning one way it should the other
there all a bit clunky
make sure your pivot is free and easy to move by disconnecting everything
put some alloy tubing sleeve over the threaded bar this will help a bit more
get it from B&Q
your looking to get results so as soon as you move the paddle it starts to move the gear lever
also move your gear lever down a few teeth and try it
its trail and error
the shorter you have the upright of the L braket the shorter your gear change will be
youve got holes drilled which is the same thing
but obviously there will be a point where its to stiff to change
hth
chris
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Gav
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 10:41 AM |
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The action of the shift is perfect, smooth(and free when not attached to the engine), the paddle dosnt return to center when going down the box. it
tries and gets about halfway but its just not as positive as going t'other way
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 10:52 AM |
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thats nothing to do with your paddle then 90% certain
disconnect it and try the gear lever on its own
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Bob C
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 11:47 AM |
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Is that because of the weight of the downlink? A suitably chosen (long!!!) spring should balance it.
Bob
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Gav
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 12:31 PM |
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yeah i was thinking that or adding a counter weight..
thats a pie a week ill have to stop eating to balance out the counter weight option though
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the_fbi
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 12:52 PM |
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Weight is almost certainly the issue with it not returning from downshifts.
If I'm reading this right, from a downshift, the longer lever at the top (the one with 4 holes) has to be pulled back up, along with what must
be 6-7" of box on the bottom lever. Thats a lot of mass to move.
The thick metal used for the crank at the top (with the 4 holes) and the bottom bar need to be changed for some light ally. This would make a large
difference imho.
Also, is the crank supported on both sides by a bolt straight through the rose joints, or just one side? Support on both sides may help.
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the_fbi
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 12:56 PM |
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Can't see how you've connected to the gear rod, but one of these may help.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4644359099
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 12:59 PM |
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if you can put your pivot on an angle like a lean
then the bar going down can be took out which is deff going to be the cause as suggested with the weight
my pivot is at an angle then the bar coming off is going at an angle towards the gear lever
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Gav
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| posted on 28/5/06 at 04:09 PM |
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I attached it to the engine using a splined gripper similar to those from ebay but just welded onto a bit on 19x19 box.
I shuld be able to add a little lean but but offsetting how much the rod ends are screwed into the threaded bosses, also i can lop some of that box
section off by bolting the top rod end to the other side of the pivot bar and the rod end will allow some side ways movment.
cheers.
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