Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 11:36 AM |
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Blade Oil Temp & Pessure Sensor Thoughts???
Right,
Further to my other two posts and now I
know the thread sizes etc.
I have a hole in my sump and a hole in the block where the original blade oil pressure sensor was.
Which orifice shall I insert the new ETB temp sensor and which orifice shall I insert the oil pressure sensor?
I'm thinking temp in the sump hole as the pressure one needs to be connected to the block ???
Ta,
Pat...
[Edited on 20/7/06 by Avoneer]
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Howlor
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 11:45 AM |
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Dear Liza, Dear Liza!
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shortie
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 12:05 PM |
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Yep, exactly as mine is done but make sure you mount the pressure sensor remotely.
Rich.
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Guinness
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 02:18 PM |
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Yup, I can vouch for fitting the sender remotely. I didn't and it fractured the brass boss, just enough to spray the screen of the guy who was
behind me at the time. Drained the oil off and then it snapped clean off when I went to un-screw it. Can only assume the weight of the sender
coupled with the vibration was more than the brass could take.
I will be buying a remote sender pipe from LMA when I get paid!
Mike
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TimC
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 03:28 PM |
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Count yourself lucky - I understand that I need to drill the block for the R1 pressure sender! 'Triffic.
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lsdweb
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 03:54 PM |
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Tim
Many people (myself included) have drilled and tapped the oil cooler bolt. Have a look
here and
here
Regards
Wyn
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 09:52 PM |
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Hi Pat
Yep definitely the way round you've said, for starters you won't get a lot of oil pressure (ie Zero) if you plug the pressure sender into
the sump 
Also as others have said mount the pressure sender remotely (but NOT temp sender), unless its a mechanical capiliary tube type gauge, cos electrical
ones die very quickly if attached directly to the engine.
cheers
Chris
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Avoneer
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| posted on 20/7/06 at 10:55 PM |
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Would the temp sender be ok in a tee next to the oil pressure switch or is it going to be better in the sump ?
I know the remone mounting won't be free flow for the temp sender, but shouldn't it heat up just the same?
Pat...
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Hellfire
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 10:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Also as others have said mount the pressure sender remotely (but NOT temp sender), unless its a mechanical capiliary tube type gauge, cos electrical
ones die very quickly if attached directly to the engine.
cheers
Chris
Why's that? Because of vibrations? The original pressure sender on the ZX12R is mounted directly to the engine therefore, this is also where we
have mounted the SPA pressure sender. If it's gonna die very quickly, should we consider mounting it remotely?
PS - Sorry for the hijack Pat but it's all useful info.
Phil
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 07:39 PM |
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Yep a lot of them die from the vibrations so I would thoroughly recommend remote mounting it, especially as the SPA pressure senders are well over £50
from what a mate told me.
Pat, the temperature sender really does need to be directly in the oil flow, any still "stagnant" liquid directly in front of it will
seriously impair the reading. When I tapped my water sender hole slightly too large the sender leaked so as a stop-gap I used a very small adapter
boss less than 20mm long so the water sender was about 15mm from the water flow, yet it read virtually 20c lower than the actual water temp (as
measured by the bike gauges I temporarily plugged in) during warmup and although it gradually got closer to the running temp, it never actually got to
the true temperature at all, even after an hour of running. Also if you have a quick fluctuation in temperature, you'd never detect it with
something that responded so slowly.
Chris
[Edited on 21/7/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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Avoneer
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 08:26 PM |
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So is the sump gonna be best for the oil temp sender?
Cheers,
Pat...
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 09:01 PM |
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Yep, thats what I had plumbed into that hole you're referring to (assuming you're still using my chopped sump).
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Avoneer
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| posted on 21/7/06 at 10:22 PM |
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Yep.
Sorted then - thanks.
Oil pressure on remote lead from hole in block next to clutch.
Oil temp directy into the sump orifice.
Cheers,
Pat...
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However a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced.
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