DEAN C.
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 09:22 AM |
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CBR1000F
Hi,I have been offered a very low mileage CBR1000F 1987 model from a chap that works for me.
He's owned it for about 10 years and mileage is 17000 and guaranteed with documents to prove.
In my mind i'm wondering whether to break for a car build or tidy the panels/paint and keep in bike form.
Basically what is it worth as a donor engine /electrics package with a view to selling the other bits off.
And secondly what are they like in a car as regards to performance and mods needed to fit into an Indy.
Cheers,Dean.
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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StevieB
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 09:49 AM |
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As far as the parts you'd sell on after taking what you want for a BEC, frames, bodywork, front wheels and forks are worth a lot more than you
might think (these are the bits that get damaged in any crash the most).
I looked at something similar to get my R1 gear - I could buy one for about £3,000 and recover most of that back through selling the parts I
won't be using.
I'd imagine bodywork for CBR1000's would be worth a faoir bit as the bike is getting old now and aftermarket bodywork probably isn't
as readily available
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zilspeed
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 10:06 AM |
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Non prehistoric but not exactly modern 1 litre bike engines like the CBR1000 or old model ZX10 / RF900 / FZR1000 seem to fetch up to 300 quid for a
full package needed to get it to run. Maybe a wee bit less.
Search under the username 'Kissy' for gen on this engine.
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fesycresy
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 03:59 PM |
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Speak to TimC regarding that engine. It seems to be geared quite low, even with 17" rims he had no top end.
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The sooner you fall behind, the more time you'll have to catch up.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 04:14 PM |
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They are fairly low geared, but with a 3.14 diff and 205/60-13" wheels it will be geared for over 120mph which is absolutely fine. Obviously the
cost of the 3.14 diff (~£250 it seems) has to be taken into account when costing it up, but performance wise in a BEC they are on a par with the blade
and fairly bulletproof
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DEAN C.
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 05:29 PM |
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Chris,what would I have to modify to make it reliable ie,sump mods,airbox,clutch slave etc.
Dean.
Once I've finished a project why do I start another?
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 05:36 PM |
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Ive not had any personal experience so probably best to ask those that have installed them, but from what Ive seen they seem pretty much bomb proof
without needing to do much to them at all, maybe just stronger springs on the clutch and possibly a baffle plate, but that would be all.
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Moorron
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 06:13 PM |
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i bought the car off tim c, and a very nice car it is.
As far as i know the engine is standard apart from rejetting and a clutch upgrade which has proven well now i have had the balls to give it some.
My engine is burning oil, ok its 15 years old so im not too bothered until it smokes heavily. about 350ml every 500 miles (but much more if i nail it
all the time  )
I want more power so am looking at a bigger or turbo engine. but its great fun at it is. Ive sat in heavy traffic at 30 degrees c and above and its
been fine so cooling is ok (its the original rad).
its a heavy engine tho. but looks very easy to fit. Prop is angled a bit but it clears the drivers firewall by about 2".
Top speed with my 3.68? dif is about 115 on 205/40/17 tyres. which means if your on a nice open road the other 'normal' car wins. But its
a very low geared 1st gear so is easier to pull away and accelates very well (looeses traction on its own).
hope this helps!
Sorry about my spelling, im an engineer and only work in numbers.
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TimC
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| posted on 13/9/06 at 05:57 PM |
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Late to the party as usual.
These engines are by all accounts bulletproof. 93kgs is a lot for a bike engine, but the relatively good torque helps, Very similar performace to
early blade cars.
Baffle plates not necessary from what I can gather. Barnett clutch springs a must!
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