chrisf
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| posted on 20/10/06 at 03:50 PM |
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Puller / Clutch at Rest
First, apologies for incessantly bringing this topic up…
Before I button everything up this evening, I want to make sure of a few things. For those that have followed, my clutch pedal went dead at a traffic
light and left me stranded. Upon investigation, I found that 1.) it is bad to keep the clutch depressed for an entire stop light and 2.) I needed a
new clutch lever.
OK, so I ordered a new one, and it does seem that the old lever was worn where it meets the clutch puller. I’ve checked the throwout bearing, and it
spins freely with no play.
So I have two questions. First, is the clutch puller supposed to have a taper or is it flat, as pictured?
On the 'Blade, when the clutch is at rest, does it appear as pictured?
The reason I ask the second question is because I put a clutch limiter on my pedal to limit the pedal from falling forward. When I did, it put
constant tension on the clutch cable. I THINK the tension was just the spring on the lever itself--not actually the clutch springs. If it was the
clutch springs, that means the puller was constantly spinning on the clutch lever, hence possibly machining the taper (if there is any) off the clutch
lever.
Whew!
--Thanks, Chris
[Edited on 20/10/06 by chrisf]
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tks
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| posted on 20/10/06 at 06:37 PM |
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impossible!!
if that surface would have had a taper....
you you see it because it almost looks like a CNC lathe finish....
also i gues that your engine wouldn't like metal in the oil...
Tks
p.s. i thinkt hat with you hand you can feel when you press the springs or not!
anyway the most important thing is that there is tension in the line at rest..
The rest should be pure movement!!
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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chrisf
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| posted on 21/10/06 at 11:46 AM |
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Sadly, last nights efforts did not work at all.  I agree TKS that the the clutch puller looks too perfectly machined. But when I put everything
together last night, I got he same effect. The clutch arm moves freely to the 10 O'clock position and can be force to move to the 11
O'clock, but still does not disengage the clutch at all.
The only thing I can think of is that there is supposed to be a smooth taper on the clutch puller. I say this because with a taper on the clutch lever
side of the puller, it would help disengage the clutch.
I'm very close to towing the car to the dealer and paying through the nose to have the issue corrected. But before I do, does anyone know what
could cause the problem?
--Chris
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JoelP
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| posted on 21/10/06 at 12:36 PM |
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ignore my u2u, i though you were talking about the lever. I cant remember what mine looked like inside now...
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Peteff
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| posted on 21/10/06 at 03:27 PM |
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Have you got the engine running? Bike clutches don't work like car clutches, I doubt if you'll turn the prop by hand even with the clutch
disengaged that's why they clunk when you engage gear. Stick it together and try it before you go spending.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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chrisf
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| posted on 21/10/06 at 05:26 PM |
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Hi Pete:
I did bolt eveything up and it still didn't work. The puller just doesn't disengage the clutch. I cannot imagine why, but this is the
case. It's very frustrating. I checked the puller bearing and it seems fine. In fact, everything seems fine. I removed all the clutch plates and
put them back in the order in which they were removed too. Maybe the clutch plates are packed in too closely, but how could this happen?
Last night, when I buttoned everything up, I started the car. Try as I might to disengage the clutch, it still stalled when shifting to first...
--Chris
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JoelP
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| posted on 21/10/06 at 06:35 PM |
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Well, to brainstorm:
-have you had everything in pieces to check for worn or stuck stuff?
-does the puller move before you tighten the clutch springs?
-have you changed or messed with the clutch springs?
-can you move the lever once the pedal is connected?
-does the cable slip at all?
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chrisf
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| posted on 22/10/06 at 11:46 PM |
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Hi:
1.) Yes, I've looked over all the pieces, and the look good or so I think.
2.) Yes, the puller does move in and out about 1/2". I'm starting to think this might be the problem. It's like the puller is too
far away (by a couple mms) and cannot pull the clutch to disengage it.
3.) Yes, the clutch springs were removed to check for damage when this initially happed. I retorqued the to 7 ft/lbs.
4.) The clutch cable broke, so the pedal is not connected to the clutch lever.
The lever itself can be easily pushed to the 10 o'clock position. If everything was working properly, the clutch would be halfway through
disengaging at that point. It might be a simple matter of of a misassembly, but there is really only one way to put the clutch arm in the cover.
Any ideas why one morning the clutch is working fine, but 20 minutes into a drive, the clutch cable snaps and the clutch lever (even the new one)
cannot pull the puller enough to disengage the clutch?
--Thanks, Chris
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R1 Seven
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 01:49 AM |
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Chris,
Are you trying to move the clutch lever without the pedal? From what I am reading, your cable broke and you are trying to acutate the clutch just
using the lever on the clutch housing. I know you are using the blade engine, but on the R1, I cannot acutuate the clutch using that lever. I just
do not have enough strength. There is a little bit of free play in that linkage that lets it move around easily for a good ways. If you have
replaced your cable and it still won't work, then I will sit here and scratch my head with you.
-Jeff
http://www.project-seven.goof.com/
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chrisf
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| posted on 23/10/06 at 12:50 PM |
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Hi Jeff:
Previously, if I pushed very hard, I could get the clutch to disengage by pushing the lever with my hand. This is a very odd problem that I suppose no
one else experienced. I'm going to take it all to bits again tonight and have a closer look at the puller, the bearing and the clutch cover
where the springs bolt to...
The confusing part is that whatever caused this problem happened suddenly.
--Chris
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