bitsilly
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 11:19 AM |
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how much travel for R1 clutch (barnett)
Hi again all.
Am considering moving the clutch cable attachment closer to the clutch pedal pivot so as to increase the feel of the clutch and spread the bite, it
seems very on or off at the mo.
Before I waste my time, has this ever been discussed before as a solution, or is it a better option to get used to it as is?
If I go ahead, does anyone know how much travel is needed to engage/disengage?? It is a barnett clutch.
Thanks yet again.
Ed
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smart51
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 11:26 AM |
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I drilled 3 holes in my brake pedal before I fitted it. On the hole furthest from the pivot, it was undrivable. I stalled it 20 times getting out
of the garage the 1st time (the garage door is 3 metres from a fence so I didn't want to go out on full throttle).
With the cable mounted close to the pivot point, there is more pedal travel and so more feel. You can feel and control the clutch bite so that you
can pull away gently at low revs if you're in traffic.
I also have a barnett pressure plate. This makes the pedal more linear. The bike's clutch spring is designed to that it takes quite a bit of
effort to pull it in but much less effort to hold it in. This is so it doesn't brake your fingers. The linear action is better for your
stronger but less sensitive foot.
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 11:31 AM |
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hi mate your clutch pedal should have no travel or minimum before its under pressure
a bike engine car clutch is like an on off switch because your using your foot
remember on the bike you would have used your hand which has a lot less pressure so can control more
your foot applies much more pressure than your hand with the slightest pressin the car
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bitsilly
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 11:32 AM |
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Thats pretty much what I had hoped. Do you have any idea how far the most usable hole is away from the pivot or some other datum? It's an MNR
pedal box.
Otherwise I'll just drill a couple and suck and see!
Cheers
Ed
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 11:40 AM |
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a brand new cluthc will be very low before it bites
dont know much about the pedal box sorry
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Coose
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 12:08 PM |
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In reply to your original question, if you are using a standard R1 clutch actuation arm you will need 12-13mm of linear cable travel at the pedal.
Spin 'er off Well...
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Winston Todge
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 12:40 PM |
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Just thought I'd note that before fiddling with the pedal box it maybe worth welding on an extension onto the clutch actuator arm on the engine
and drilling that first?
I drilled 5 holes and have it on the furthest away position and haven't stalled it yet! A very useable 2 to 3 inches of 'biting'
travel from completely off to on. Very controllable...
It was a compromise between having the cable attach to the pedal too low and have stones getting trapped under the pedal arm and a very binary clutch.
Seems perfect at the mo... 
Chris.
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bitsilly
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 01:49 PM |
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That was another thing we decided to look at too, would certainly help adjustability, and not sure if I can get 12-13mm going closer to the pivot.
Pity we couldn't drive the car more before taking it off the road.
Thanks gents
Ed
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Fredrik Jönsson
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 02:37 PM |
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Why using a pedal? I will use a R1 clutch handle fitted to the gearshift (witch will be of same diameter as the steering on the bike) and facing
forward. I will then be able to shift up without clutch and easely shift down with just by pulling the handle and at the same time press the clutch.
The clutchfeeling will then be Yamaha-designed...
The extra benefit is that I only need two pedals...
I have also bought the electric controlpanels from a bike witch will give me a starter, lights, horn, choke and so on. I will put these below the
clutchhandle on the gearstick...
Fredrik, Sweden
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bitsilly
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 03:51 PM |
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Only reason I thought that wouldn't be an option was having to keep your hand on the gearstick when pulling away and, well, others times when
using the clutch! I'm easily confused.
I'd be very interested in finding out how it works for you though, please keep me posted. When are you due to have it on the road?
Ed
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Fredrik Jönsson
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 05:02 PM |
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One hand at the wheel at the start should not be a problem and by sitting in the frame I can imagine it will be harder to move your foot then your
left hand. I will be able to drive with my left foot on the brakes at all time...
When the car will ready? Sensible question... ...hopefully next summer maybe -08 but then it will completed and ready for action in the spring...
Fredrik, Sweden
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zxrlocost
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| posted on 7/12/06 at 05:31 PM |
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I would imagine your gear changes and the time with your hand spent on the gear lever will be multiplied with the clutch lever on there two
I wouldnt bother
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 01:01 PM |
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Unless you've got three arms then an up-hill start could be a real problem with a hand clutch, unless you bring your other hand off the wheel to
let the handbrake off......
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Fredrik Jönsson
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| posted on 8/12/06 at 10:18 PM |
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No problem. I got two legs instead .
Of course I will still have a foot brake to put my left foot on.....
[Edited on 8/12/06 by Fredrik Jönsson]
Fredrik, Sweden
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 9/12/06 at 05:37 PM |
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Good point, was thinking you'd have to heel / toe but obviously your left leg isnt doing the clutch. Duh! 
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bitsilly
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| posted on 17/12/06 at 07:40 AM |
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Just for completion, we welded an extension to the clutch arm and moved the attachment of the pedal-end cable closer to the pivot.
It works a treat, almost like a car clutch.
Thanks gents.
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TimC
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| posted on 17/12/06 at 07:57 AM |
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Having edged the car into the garage yesterday, I have to agree that it's a job well done!
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