hobbsy
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:40 PM |
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Anyone using the head bolt on an R1 for oil pressure?
There is a bolt on head / cam cover of my 5PW which I was considering using as an oil pressure feed. I spoke to Jim Giblett earlier and he mentioned
the oil cooler bolt and this bolt as well but was worried due to heat and slightly increased vibration but said that there were some people using it
successfully.
Just wondered if there was anyone on here who'd like to share their experiences?
I'd be using some kind of braided flexible hose to protect the pressure sender.
Anyone know what thread it is for sure?
I guess its no good for temperature (same as the oil cooler bolt) as the temp sender won't be in the flow of oil.
The one thing that worries me about its suitability is that the Haynes manual says you can use it to test the oil pressure. The procedure it
describes is remove the bolt then it should weep within a minute of starting the bike else you're in the poop. If this is seeing full pressure
surely it should fly out of there if you remove the bolt? (Maybe it was just loosen the bolt?)
I can't fit a sandwich plate in as it would foul the chassis rail. I bought a Mocal oil filter relocator kit and I was going to tap the remote
filter head but I'm struggling to find space to mount it without having long pipe runs or them running a bit too close to the exhaust manifold.
This would have solved both the fact the oil filter is a pig to get off and the oil pressure and temp take off problem.
Also I've only just put the sump back on with a fresh gasket so don't really want to drill and tap the sump / weld a boss on for the temp
sensor.
Is anyone getting a decent temp figure from anywhere other than the sump or a sandwich plate? I guess thats about it?
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chockymonster
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:49 PM |
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Oil cooler bolt worked for me.
I tried to use the bolt above #4 exhaust header but it's an M6 thread.
Drilling and tapping the oil cooler bolt is the easiest option. For temp I drilled the sump.
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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progers
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:49 PM |
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Hi Hobbsy,
I use the oil cooler bolt for oil pressure (1/8NPT tap). It seems to be a reliable way to do it, even though the amount of threads you get is not
great due to the thickness of the metal.
For temp I have tapped into a remote oil filter head. I appreciate it may need longish pipe runs (I have mine mounted in front of engine between
engine and rad) but it does make oil filter changes much easier.
Cheers
Paul
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hobbsy
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:50 PM |
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When you drilled the sump did you weld a boss on as well or just pick on a meaty part of the sump (where?).
Also is this place the best to get a braided 1/8 npt / bsp pipe ready made?:
http://www.lma-group.com/motorsport/Products/Gauge_Fitting_Parts/gauge_fitting_parts.html
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progers
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:52 PM |
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Forgot to mention that I do not think the tapped hole above #4 exhaust gives true reading of oil pressure. I once left the bolt out and oil only
dribbled out, certainly didn't spurt at 80psi!
- Paul
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hobbsy
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:55 PM |
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Paul,
Yeah as I said I was going to tap the remote filter head for both the oil temp and pressure but I'm struggling to find somewhere that it will go
where it will make getting the filter off any easier!
My battery and rectifier are already neatly in between my engine and rad and all nicely loomed in etc so don't want to shift everything
around.
There is just about space on the exhaust manifold side behind the engine but its tight and access isn't great plus wasn't keen on running
the oil lines that close to the manifold.
The problem is the 90deg turns in the pipe fittings they make the remote filter head over 8 inches wide I reckon!
As the oil filter access isn't THAT bad I decided to forget about relocating it and look at other options to get oil pressure and temp.
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hobbsy
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 10:59 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by progers
Forgot to mention that I do not think the tapped hole above #4 exhaust gives true reading of oil pressure. I once left the bolt out and oil only
dribbled out, certainly didn't spurt at 80psi!
- Paul
This was my concern after reading the Haynes manual (maybe not living up to its reputation as being the "Book of lies"
for a change) - hence the post.
Looks like its the oil cooler bolt like so many people have done for the pressure then. Mine is a dual SPA gauge so pressure is 1/8 BSP.
The question now is do I need a boss to put the 1/8 NPT temp sender into the sump or if I pick the location carefully will it be ok just tapped
straight it?
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chockymonster
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 11:22 PM |
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I just drilled and tapped mine.
It's in a meaty almost directly under the sprocket.
PLEASE NOTE - Responses on Forum Threads may contain Sarcasm and may not be suitable for the hard of Thinking.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 6/3/07 at 11:33 PM |
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Hi David
I think I have some pics somewhere of my remote filter setup which may help, so I'll see if I can dig them out (on my old PC upstairs I
think).
Chris
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 7/3/07 at 12:27 AM |
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For pressure take off technical guide linky here
Thats my old motor in the pics. As for oil temp Chris G's uncle welded and tapped a boss onto my sump.
It was on locostbuilders that I remember someone suggesting the gallery bolt (eg
here)
- Jim
[Edited on 7/3/07 by jimgiblett]
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lsdweb
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| posted on 7/3/07 at 08:12 AM |
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Sump and Oil cooler bolt for me (following guidance on here!)
Pictures here
Wyn
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hobbsy
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| posted on 7/3/07 at 10:23 AM |
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That bit does look meaty enough, I think I'll go straight in.
I just need to order a braided 30cm ish 1/8" BSP male to female hose now.
Where's cheapest? LMA or ThinkAuto (£5 min for postage and I just ordered a load of bits from them last week - doh! )
[Edited on 7/3/07 by hobbsy]
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lsdweb
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| posted on 7/3/07 at 07:18 PM |
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In the end, I put the sensor in the other side of the sump (just as thick), as this worked out better with the wiring and kept it away from the
exhaust.
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hobbsy
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| posted on 7/3/07 at 07:48 PM |
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Just finished putting the sensor in the side next to the sump plug, in this install its less likely to get knocked if I use that side and it
doesn't make much difference to the wiring if anything its shorter and follows the same path that the oil level switch does (not that this is
used as I chopped it off).
Couldn't get the damn oil cooler bolt out though in the time I had tonight as the chassis rail stopping me from undoing it completely! Will
probably be able to undo the mounts and jack it up a bit.
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