Hi all,

Strictly is donor related as the caravan chassis is a donor to my car transporter!!

I have been reading about using molasses or electrolysis but both require dipping and I just simply cant do that. I was wondering if I could liberally paint a molasses mix on several times over the course of a day and it would work the same. My drive way is rubbish so I dont mind if it stains the floor.

So, paint brush and approx 2 litres of molasses painted on and left, do you think this will work?

Wire brush in a grinder.....

That shifts most stuff, followed by a decent primer/paint

More than adequate for a chassis.

EDIT for fat finger typo

[Edited on 19/6/13 by cliftyhanger]

Should be quite easy to use electrolysis to do a chassis so long as its not very high. Just make a parameter wall higher than the chassis out of bricks, tyres, sleepers or anything ou can get a hold of. Then just throw a sheet of polythene over it and fill it up. I use several bits of iron in the water connected with thin wire back to the battery charger. Get a high amp 24v battery charger to cope with he extra water. After a jet washer will take it back to base shiny metal after a few days. Building suppliers wall sell you the polythene.

This is how I did these wheels for example and a lawn tractor (didn't even bother tacking it apart)


nasty



[Edited on 19/6/13 by Mr Whippy]

Wire brush on a grinder for as much of it as you can get to, followed by a coating of De-Ox gel for the pits and seams, etc.

Pay someone to shot blast it?

quote:

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Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Should be quite easy to use electrolysis to do a chassis so long as its not very high. Just make a parameter wall higher than the chassis out of bricks, tyres, sleepers or anything ou can get a hold of. Then just throw a sheet of polythene over it and fill it up. I use several bits of iron in the water connected with thin wire back to the battery charger. Get a high amp 24v battery charger to cope with he extra water. After a jet washer will take it back to base shiny metal after a few days. Building suppliers wall sell you the polythene.

This is how I did these wheels for example and a lawn tractor (didn't even bother tacking it apart)


nasty



[Edited on 19/6/13 by Mr Whippy]

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Got to be easier/safer to get it blasted and painted, even just primed and then paint yourself.

quote:

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Originally posted by Mr Whippy
Should be quite easy to use electrolysis to do a chassis so long as its not very high. Just make a parameter wall higher than the chassis out of bricks, tyres, sleepers or anything ou can get a hold of. Then just throw a sheet of polythene over it and fill it up. I use several bits of iron in the water connected with thin wire back to the battery charger. Get a high amp 24v battery charger to cope with he extra water. After a jet washer will take it back to base shiny metal after a few days. Building suppliers wall sell you the polythene.

This is how I did these wheels for example and a lawn tractor (didn't even bother tacking it apart)


nasty



[Edited on 19/6/13 by Mr Whippy]

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Yeah don't see why not, at the lowest setting it's not going to heat up the welder much, not sure if it would be safe or not to touch the water. Certainly feel nothing with the battery charger.

A hole dug in the ground would be fine so long as you have a digger to do it with and a pump empty it later

[Edited on 19/6/13 by Mr Whippy]

What do you do with the water afterwards ?

( or shouldn't we ask ?? )

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Originally posted by coozer

Seen this done on a truck chassis using a small arc welder set on its lowest ampage....

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Why not just soak a cloth and wrap it?

quote:

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Originally posted by mark chandler
Why not just soak a cloth and wrap it?

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For me the only feasible options are Dr Whippy's marvelous frothing orange tanks or shot blasting. Failing that remove as much rust as poss by mechanical means and get some acid to brush on - but that is rather nasty in the wrong hands (or to innocent 3rd parties such as yours or your neighbours fave pets). Fumes can be bad too.

I had a mate who brought some RS2000 parts into work (quality lab) and used the sink with the companies acid etching acid (normally used for weld / heat treat testing). It worked well but perhaps not eco friendly. The company at the time also had trike tanks and a handy paint plant.


I took my donor parts to a local treatment specialists for de-rusting. Would have been easier to make my old tank though.


Isnt a caravan chassis galvanised? Cant be that badly corroded can it?

quote:

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Originally posted by DarrenW
For me the only feasible options are Dr Whippy's marvelous frothing orange tanks or shot blasting. Failing that remove as much rust as poss by mechanical means and get some acid to brush on - but that is rather nasty in the wrong hands (or to innocent 3rd parties such as yours or your neighbours fave pets). Fumes can be bad too.

I had a mate who brought some RS2000 parts into work (quality lab) and used the sink with the companies acid etching acid (normally used for weld / heat treat testing). It worked well but perhaps not eco friendly. The company at the time also had trike tanks and a handy paint plant.


I took my donor parts to a local treatment specialists for de-rusting. Would have been easier to make my old tank though.


Isnt a caravan chassis galvanised? Cant be that badly corroded can it?

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Strip axle, wirebrush mounted in The Tool, done. No need to over-complicate things. It's a trailer axle, not something that is going to go into outer space... ;-)

quote:

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Originally posted by TimEllershaw
What do you do with the water afterwards ?

( or shouldn't we ask ?? )

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quote:

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Originally posted by TimEllershaw
What do you do with the water afterwards ?

( or shouldn't we ask ?? )

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shot blast then a good etch primer to give you a good base for painting?