darrens
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| posted on 10/5/07 at 07:31 PM |
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Balance bar
Prob been covered to death but couple of questions if I may.
What should be balance be roughly between front and rear? (for a seven)
What's the SVA accepted way of locking the balance bar, will roll pins suffice etc.
Thanks
[Edited on 10/5/07 by darrens]
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stuart_g
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| posted on 10/5/07 at 07:37 PM |
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Pretty sure the only SVA approved way is roll pins.
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Paradoxia0
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| posted on 10/5/07 at 09:21 PM |
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Darren nicely pre-empted my question there - thanks :-)
When you say roll pins, you mean set the balance, drill the balence bar shaft (through the bolts?) and stick a roll-pin through?
Mark
There is no replacement for displacement...
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stuart_g
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| posted on 10/5/07 at 10:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paradoxia0
Darren nicely pre-empted my question there - thanks :-)
When you say roll pins, you mean set the balance, drill the balence bar shaft (through the bolts?) and stick a roll-pin through?
Mark
Yes set the balance up then drill the shaft either side of balance bar and put roll pins through.
Not sure about bolts do you mean lock nuts on the shaft? if so these are not allowed on their own but can't see why you can't drill
through these and lock it that way. Hopefully someone will be along with the definitive soon.
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RazMan
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 08:12 AM |
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Depending on your brake setup I would set the bias bar so that it is level with just a little pressure (enough to take up the slack in the system) You
will probably find this is a good starting point . If you have monster brakes on either end, you can then compensate by adjusting the bias bar
accordingly. I like my rears to lock JUST before the fronts.
btw My SVA tester was happy to pass my bias bar even though it wasn't roll pinned - just locked with a locknut. It seems to be a grey area in
some test centres.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 09:35 AM |
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a very grey area, mine demands that i lock both the balance bar, AND the 2 master cylinder pushrods with a hole and a pin
im really not keen on what drilling through a 6mm pushrod bar will do to its strength, could anyone comment on this?
-Rog
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darrens
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 03:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by stuart_g
quote:
Originally posted by Paradoxia0
Darren nicely pre-empted my question there - thanks :-)
When you say roll pins, you mean set the balance, drill the balence bar shaft (through the bolts?) and stick a roll-pin through?
Mark
Yes set the balance up then drill the shaft either side of balance bar and put roll pins through.
Not sure about bolts do you mean lock nuts on the shaft? if so these are not allowed on their own but can't see why you can't drill
through these and lock it that way. Hopefully someone will be along with the definitive soon.
Seems sensible to me, gonna go with the roll pins and seen what the outcome is.
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darrens
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 03:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Paradoxia0
Darren nicely pre-empted my question there - thanks :-)
When you say roll pins, you mean set the balance, drill the balence bar shaft (through the bolts?) and stick a roll-pin through?
Mark
Glad to help!!
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darrens
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 03:23 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dillinger1977
a very grey area, mine demands that i lock both the balance bar, AND the 2 master cylinder pushrods with a hole and a pin
im really not keen on what drilling through a 6mm pushrod bar will do to its strength, could anyone comment on this?
That seems a bit OTT and I'm with you on strength of the 6mm pushrod, it's quite amazing how much force can be applied by your right foot.
[Edited on 11/5/07 by darrens]
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RazMan
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 03:56 PM |
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Pedal pressure can be up to 500N which is shared between front & rear pushrods. Pinning the pushrods is way ott imo and I would ask the question
again. I've never heard of the need before - just the balance bar itself.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 04:58 PM |
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Ask your inspector if he can think of any mainstream cars with roll pins through the pushrod. My balance bar set up has the "trunnions"
drilled and tapped and when balance was OK had a grub screw with a lock nut screwed in to lock the balance bar . Seems better than drilling to me and
SVA inspector was happy with it , things may have changed so don't blame me if you do it that way
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NS Dev
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| posted on 11/5/07 at 05:08 PM |
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That really is a joke.............................so use the joke solution, I did!!!!
Drill a nut, cut a roll pin in half and put half each side of the nut, hey presto, adjustable roll pinned nut.
I went to all that trouble as I didn't want to drill the bias bar, then I went and set it crack on without even trying it on the road, so it
never even needed adjusting anyway for the test!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Dillinger1977
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| posted on 12/5/07 at 08:23 AM |
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quote:
Drill a nut, cut a roll pin in half and put half each side of the nut, hey presto, adjustable roll pinned nut.
I dont think they fall for that one anymore, my tester even mentioned that 'others had tried this' when he was talking about how to lock
it so anyone following this method be careful..
Im guessing if they find you doing that they will slaughter you on the rest of the test!
-Rog
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NS Dev
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| posted on 13/5/07 at 12:54 PM |
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Maybe so, but how will they know?
I dont like being deceitful, and I'm not stupid enough that I don't have a pair of locknuts on the bar locked together to ensure the bias
can't go any more to the rear now. I just didn't want to drill a perfectly good bias bar when i could see no valid reason for doing it.
For them to find out if the pin is though they will have to adjust, or attempt to adjust, the bar, which they won't do, and indeed
couldn't do anyway as I had the pair of locknuts locking it anyway!
[Edited on 13/5/07 by NS Dev]
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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wicket
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| posted on 13/5/07 at 05:02 PM |
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But they could ask you to remove a pin if they have doubts!
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