Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 05:22 PM |
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brake balance bar- lock nut
What methods are acceptable for locking the nut on the brake balance bar.
I know I should use a roll pin but don’t have any so wondered what other ways have been used.
A quick glance at it today made me think about an m3 bolt through the nut and bar. Then remove the head.
Paul
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nitram38
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 05:27 PM |
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Roll pin is what they want and what they look for.
You can get them easily through ebay or your local nut and bolt supplier.
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 05:30 PM |
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Cheers -will spend some more pennies then and get some roll pins
Paul
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 05:42 PM |
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Hi Paul
I can help you with this one having just been picked up at SVA on what I did. I lock nutted the bar with full front bias and roll pinned the lock nut
using a roll pin suitable for a 3mm hole. Although what I had done limited the travel of the balance bar it was still possible to rotate the bar by a
few turns and this did have a significant effect on the rear brakes. He tested the brakes at both ends of the travel and fortunately it passed.
What I should have done was to drill through one of the yoke pivots and through the threaded bar. This would have prevented any movement at all.
I'll try to post a picture of what I did so that you can avoid making the same mistake.
Best of luck
John.jpg)
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 05:57 PM |
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Mine went through about 3 years ago by drilling the "trunnions" tapping out and fitting a grub screw with locknut. Needed to be adjusted
at SVA which just meant undoing the lock nuts and screws adjusting the bias bar and relocking. Even though the car had been MOT just before SVA there
is no sure way to tell what bias setting you have without the pressure sensor on the brake pedal. I had taken a cordless drill and roll pins to do the
job had my way not been OK. but I think roll pinning is better done when bias bar is adjusted correctly
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John Bonnett
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 06:05 PM |
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quote: you don't have to lock it, just make sure that atr both extreme's the fronts lock before the rears.
That is correct and is obviously dependant on the car, the selection of master cylinders and discs etc. However, in the case of the Phoenix, I am sure
that if the tester could have wound on any more rear bias my car would have failed.
It is true that the fronts must lock before the rears but it is complicated by the fact that the results are fed into a computer that takes into
account the weight of the vehicle and the height of the centre of gravity etc etc. Byron did say that before going to the computer he expected my car
to fail and indeed had my car been a conventional saloon it would have failed because of the c of g and presumably weight transfer under braking would
highlight an unacceptable amount of braking on the rear.
I took the advice of a very nice man at RAW whom I met at Stoneleigh and he said that they have no trouble at SVA if they wind on full front bias and
lock in that position. This is obviously the thing to do with the Striker and I can confirm for the Phoenix too.
John
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BenB
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 06:09 PM |
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I made up a little brake bias bar cover (two bits of wood and some ali sheet) that covered up the brake bias bar preventing it from being adjusted...
Rivetted in place so its permanent.... Voila... Unfortunately it fell off shortly after SVA...
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minitici
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 07:56 PM |
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Surely drilling the pivot bar for a roll pin would seriously weaken the bar???
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RazMan
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 07:58 PM |
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Mine passed with just two nuts locked in place - it does depend on the tester though so to save any problems I would roll pin them.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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nitram38
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 08:42 PM |
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If you put a nut on both ends and roll pin them, it would be better than puting one through the clevis.
I used half-nuts to lock mine and roll pinned nuts on the ends. It could still be adjusted, but not beyond "the worst case senario"
(according to book).
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BenB
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 09:15 PM |
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If you have a remote adjuster you can pill the adjuster and leave the bar unweakened 
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vindicator
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| posted on 5/1/08 at 10:10 PM |
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Information given to me was to use nuts and weld one of them to the end of the balance bar and make sure that the other was tight, but this was not
good enough for my SVA inspection. This was due to the yokes being to tight and the balance bar did not have any play in it.
Second time around I used the drill and roll pin method and that was ok for SVA.
I took a battery drill with me and the brake balance was measured first and then I drilled through the yoke and tapped in a roll pin.
The question about would this weaken the balance bar....I am not a expert and this worried me at first...but I am sure that nobody wants the bar to
brake under due braking pressure so I am sure SVA inspectors and other experts have taken this into account or they would not tell us this is the
preferred method to use....I have not heard of one braking yet unless......
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