I'm trying to fit an antiroll bar to the front of my Striker using a 1/2" Caterham bar into which I've put an extra bend either side to line up with my wishbones. The problem I have is getting enough motion in the lower rod end to cope with the travel of the wishbone - it locks out a bit too soon and does'nt allow enough wishbone travel.
It's a bit rudimentary at the moment but I'd welcome any suggestions on how to get round this problem





Thanks in advance

Can't you weld the lower mounting to the wishbone at 90' to how it is now?

I'd have thought having it mounted that ar in on the wishbone would limit it's effect (low leverage). Is that intentional?

If I turn the mount through 90 degrees it then limits the amount I can move the upper rod fore and aft along the rollbar.

I placed the mounting there as its half way along the straight section of the rollbar, the idea being that, using split collars to locate the upper rod end, it would allow me to move it and so adjust the stiffness - forward = stiffer, backwards = softer. Is that correct or am I way off the mark? (not for the first time!)

Also I thought if I put it at right angles then, as the wishbone travels upwards, it will try to deflect the antiroll bar laterally as well as vertically (looking from the front)? Perhaps its not enough to worry about?

Thanks for the qick reply BTW
Cheers, Rich

You could mount it like this (not mine):



I would have thought in your present position the bar will need to be very stiff to get the desired effect owing to the leverage.

The way I have it is on the inboard end of the rocker arm.


more photos in the archive. This is a "Farley" ARB, but you could make the same thing yourself.

Matt

I can see your thinking re the adjustabilty fore and aft but to me (in addition to it locking out) the narrowness looks like it won't actually do much as the deflection of the wishbones at that point is fairly minimal.

If you really want it to stay where it is just turn the lower rose joint through 90 degrees..and move the ARB forwards and backwards



[Edited on 21/11/11 by mookaloid]

quote:

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Originally posted by matt_gsxr
You could mount it like this (not mine):

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quote:

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Originally posted by Rich J
I'm trying to fit an antiroll bar to the front of my Striker using a 1/2" Caterham bar into which I've put an extra bend either side to line up with my wishbones. The problem I have is getting enough motion in the lower rod end to cope with the travel of the wishbone - it locks out a bit too soon and does'nt allow enough wishbone travel.
It's a bit rudimentary at the moment but I'd welcome any suggestions on how to get round this problem





Thanks in advance

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Ok - a redisgn is needed then

Thanks for the input guys

[Edited on 21/11/11 by mikeb]

But to answer the initial question (I don't think it's been answered), you need misalignment spacers to get more articulation out of your rod ends.

quote:

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Originally posted by indykid
But to answer the initial question (I don't think it's been answered), you need misalignment spacers to get more articulation out of your rod ends.

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I've used misalignment spacers on my buggy build. You have to use an oversize rod end with them to get the extra movement. Not sure you would be able to adapt the anti-roll bar to make them work

Buy a cheap anti roll bar drop link, I got one for £4 for my daughter's Corsa which we are repairing. It has proper ball joints at both ends and you could cut one up to use the joints which will give you more articulation

Hi Rich. The Titanium arrangement pictured above is my handywork.( Apart from the welding). The centre section is a cut down 16mm caterham item. The rest is all bespoke but not too difficult to do. The pics don't show the mounts but they are straightforward items. A lot of designs only have an adjustable blade on one end. Steel blades are available commercially.
Try the following link.
Geoff.

ARB LINKY


[img][/img]

[Edited on 21/11/11 by SPYDER]

[Edited on 21/11/11 by SPYDER]

Thanks again for the replies guys. I'm going to go with Matt's inboard set up

How about this option- Saw this at Harewood


The bottom damper bolt is turned down on a lathe, then gets a new thread cut on the machined bit to tie it to the rose joint