Does any one have a guide to changing the crush washer in the English axle? so far I have found the following thread.
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?126170-pinion-depth-backlash-english-diff-cwp-rebuild-tips-and-info
Using the information in the thread above,
1. Mark up the location of the nut on the output flange
2. Count the number of turns to remove the nut.
3. Swap the crush spacer and oil seal
4. Replace the nut and do it up with the same number as undoing and line up the marks in step 1
5. Check the crown wheel pinion end float it should be 0.005 to 0.007" (0.13 to 0.17mm)
6. Check the pinion bearing pre-load witch should be 20 to 26 LB/INCH new bearings 12 to 18 LB/INCH old bearings excluding drag from seal
Does the above sound sensible / correct?
Above procedure will end in tears -- it is ok counting the turns of the nut to do an in-service change of the oil seal only but if you change the crush washer you have to set it up properly an measure the pre-load.
OK so how do you properly measure the pre-load?
1. Remove oil seal and old crush washer.
2. Replace crush washer and reassemble.
3. Tighten until end float is in the range of 0.005 to 0.007" (0.13 to 0.17mm)
4. Check the pinion bearing pre-load witch should be 20 to 26 LB/INCH new bearings 12 to 18 LB/INCH old bearings excluding drag from seal
5. mark up remove nut and resemble with oil seal
I don't mean to be nasty but I'm guessing that you may not be familiar with some of the terminology or it's application or it would be
obvious that you can't set the diff up when it's in the axle.
When you describe:
" 3. Tighten until end float is in the range of 0.005 to 0.007" (0.13 to 0.17mm) "
This adjustemnt is not done on the pinion nut (the pinion cannot have end float and preload they are the opposite of each other) the term "end
float" is also in correct and should be " backlash ". Step 3 describes setting up the clearance between the CW and the pinion, this is
done using the diff carrier bearing adjusters which you cannot see when the diff is fitted.
You also cannot check the preload on the pinion with the axle in the casing as you do not know what effect the halfshaft, wheel bearings, etc are
having on the reading.
Why do you want to change the crush tube?
Cheers
Davie
quote:
Originally posted by daviep
I don't mean to be nasty but I'm guessing that you may not be familiar with some of the terminology or it's application or it would be obvious that you can't set the diff up when it's in the axle.
I just typed loads and then accidently clicked on a link
bugger, please can you write it up again?
OK deep breath 
You need to take the propshaft off and have a rug and tug on the pinion flange, you shouldn't get any movement on it at all, if you get movement
then diff needs a rebuild.
If there is no play have a feel (turn pinion bacwards and forwards) and see how much backlash you can feel between CW and pinion, there shouldn't
be a lot (imagine rotating from 12 o'clock by 1 or 2 minutes at most) and you have to feel gently you only want the CW and P not the whole
drivetrain to the wheels. If there is a lot of play diff neeeds rebuilt.
If there isn't a lot of play then you can change the oil seal without too much trouble.
1: Scribe or mark the nut to the shaft (not to the flange as this can be fitted in different positions)
2:Remove nut - be very careful to feel exactly when the nut comes off so that you know when refitting how many full turns after it picks up the
thread
3:Remove flange and change seal
4:Clean and dry the splines of the flange and put a little silione on the splines near the top (nearest nut) before refitting - stops oil leaking up
the splines and out between the propshaft and flange
5:Refit flange
6:Refit nut as per correct number of turns from step2 - tighten just past you mark
7:Job done
Cheers
Davie
quote:
Originally posted by daviep
OK deep breath
You need to take the propshaft off and have a rug and tug on the pinion flange, you shouldn't get any movement on it at all, if you get movement then diff needs a rebuild.
If there is no play have a feel (turn pinion bacwards and forwards) and see how much backlash you can feel between CW and pinion, there shouldn't be a lot (imagine rotating from 12 o'clock by 1 or 2 minutes at most) and you have to feel gently you only want the CW and P not the whole drivetrain to the wheels. If there is a lot of play diff neeeds rebuilt.
If there isn't a lot of play then you can change the oil seal without too much trouble.
1: Scribe or mark the nut to the shaft (not to the flange as this can be fitted in different positions)
2:Remove nut - be very careful to feel exactly when the nut comes off so that you know when refitting how many full turns after it picks up the thread
3:Remove flange and change seal
4:Clean and dry the splines of the flange and put a little silione on the splines near the top (nearest nut) before refitting - stops oil leaking up the splines and out between the propshaft and flange
5:Refit flange
6:Refit nut as per correct number of turns from step2 - tighten just past you mark
7:Job done
Cheers
Davie
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....
quote:
Originally posted by daviep
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....
Seems a bit excessive, no harm in doing some diagnostic work first!
£5 for a seal versus £200 for a rebuild.
Cheers
Davie
Thanks for the input.
I'm guessing that rebuilding the diff/axle is going to be beyond me based on the input on this thread so does any body have a recommendation for
some one to to that in the Manchester area?
[Edited on 24/5/12 by ceebmoj]
quote:
Originally posted by twybrow
Get it rebuilt properly - even just getting the old seal out can be a PITA. Plus, most people dont replace the crush tube with another, but go for a solid space instead. For the cost, I would pay to have it overhauled properly, then at least you know it is good for the next 5 years....