Hi, i feel a bit silly asking this but i have never had to do one before and it looked a very simple job but can i hell get the thing to seperate! Basically i'm trying to remove the ball joint so i can replace the boot as its worn. I've taken a photo of how it stands at the moment, am i going about this the wrong way?



thanks

They can be a right bugger sometimes..

You need a ball joint sepperator

For the price of a new ball joint I would replace that at the same time.... they usually get damaged when trying to remove the little sods



or if you have the space


[Edited on 16/6/12 by tegwin]

hammer the hub close to the joint then it should come out

screw a nut on the end of the thread (but don't expose the thread) pour on boiling water, and clout the nut with a hammer. when i had one to remove, i tried ball joint splitters, didn't work, tried soaking in wd40 for weeks, nothing, only boiling water and a sharp smack with a hammer worked!

well its nice to know its not just me who has a problem with these! ive tried that hot water technique but im struggling to get in with a hammer so ill pick up a ball joint splitter at newark tomorrow!

thanks

The best type a fork type ball joint splitter with a long shaft Sealey AK3821 o Draper 38859 or Laser 2726

I've recently replaced the rubber on one of these balljoints for the MOT lately, I used the second type that tegwin posted, just leave the nut on a few threads and tighten the separator, then hit the joint with a hammer

Anyway, just in case someone shows up later wanting the rubbers only for these balljoints, you can get them HERE, if that link no longer works, they are "2 X MEDIUM SLIDE-A-BOOT UNIVERSAL BALL JOINT TRACK ROD END DUST COVERS 1 PAIR" sold by PANDA TOOLS.

No connection, just good service.

The problem with screw press type ball joint splitters is there just not enough room to get them in on most ball joints, whereas the fork type work on anything from BL Mini track rod ends to lower ball joints on vans.

The long shank type is extra handy because apart from being good for giving it a nice clean hammer blow ith your hands clear of the danger area you can also use it to lever the ball joint upwards.

You've removed the nuts to the lower part so the lower wishbone is hanging down and you've removed the top nut. So the only thing holding the BJ in place is the fit of the tapers???

Personally I'd get a long metal drift, put it onto the top of the BJ shaft and smack it hard. Job done. As said if you want to re-use the BJ put a nut on top of the shaft first.

If it doesn't work get a bigger hammer.

And next time use a bit of copper slip on the taper before putting the BJ in.

If you can't split a ball joint with the first crack thn you're a pussy........

OK now that you've had a motovational speech here's the technique.

1:You nee to get your cycle wing off so that you can can get a good lick at it.
2:Leave the nut on afew threads just in case you're not very good with a hammer
3:Turn the steering to full lock to give best access with hammer
4:Give upright a good crack as indicated by arrow (yes hit the upright not the ball joint)

5: Remember real men do it in one hit.

Cheers
Davie

[Edited on 16/6/12 by daviep]

If you hit the top of a tapered pin with a hammer because of the Poisson's ratio effect the pin grips the sides of the hole tighter, it just might spring out but the odds are against it.

The two hammer method applied to the side of the joint to send a transverse shock wave through the hole part of the joint (ie hitting the upright) often works but the problem is usually getting access.

The reason why fork type removers work so effectively is they pull the pin and Poisson's ratio works in your favour.

[Edited on 16/6/12 by britishtrident]

Never failed yet hitting the ball joint socket with a hammer, I'm with Davie here. Remove the wing bracket and put the bolts back in then jack it up under the chassis so there's some tension on it.



[Edited on 16/6/12 by Peteff]