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clutch pushrod
joolsmi16 - 10/12/05 at 05:37 PM

Hi all, I have a floor mounted pedal box and I have just noticed when trying to drill a hole in the clutch pedal to fit the clevis pin that the master cylinder push rod is too long?

Is it normal practise to cut this so my pedal can be positioned correctly?

Also are the pedels usually positioned straight up (vertically) or are they angled forward/back to aid comfort.

liam.mccaffrey - 10/12/05 at 06:35 PM

i havn't done it myself but i think lsdweb(wyn) has a solid linked clutch have a look at his photo arhcive there might be a pick

joolsmi16 - 10/12/05 at 07:57 PM

Were I am unsure is when the clutch cylinder is bolted into the pedal box the threaded rod from the MC is too long to attach to the clutch pedal.

I have done a search but can only find cable clutch pedal boxes, so it seem the only thing to do is cut the push rod?

lsdweb - 10/12/05 at 09:56 PM

Hi

Liam is right - I have a pull rod system - it's sheer simplicity and works a treat. You don't need to worry about tight cable bends or anything.

It's only any good though if your release arm is on the same side of the car as the pedal box!

Have a look at:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=3P1010007.JPG

It's a bit mucky as the photo was taken when the Crossflow was in there!

Wyn

NS Dev - 10/12/05 at 10:17 PM

quote:
Originally posted by joolsmi16
Hi all, I have a floor mounted pedal box and I have just noticed when trying to drill a hole in the clutch pedal to fit the clevis pin that the master cylinder push rod is too long?

Is it normal practise to cut this so my pedal can be positioned correctly?

Also are the pedels usually positioned straight up (vertically) or are they angled forward/back to aid comfort.


Hi,

the others seem to have gone off track on this one! (I do it all the time!!)

Yes, it is quite normal to have to cut down the pushrod.

A couple of times I have even (on specials) run out of thread. It is usually rolled on these pushrods, so there is not enough "meat" on the pushrod to just cut a thread. In these circumstances I remove the std pushrod (take out the circlip and it comes out) and machine a bolt head to a spherical shape to match the pushrod end and use that instead)

givemethebighammer - 11/12/05 at 12:06 AM

quote:
Originally posted by lsdweb
Hi

Liam is right - I have a pull rod system - it's sheer simplicity and works a treat. You don't need to worry about tight cable bends or anything.

It's only any good though if your release arm is on the same side of the car as the pedal box!

Have a look at:

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=showphoto&photo=3P1010007.JPG

It's a bit mucky as the photo was taken when the Crossflow was in there!

Wyn


This is one of those times when you say "Why didn't I think of that!". I spent hours trying to force grease down my clutch cable to relieve the problems caused by the tight bend in the cable. I'm going to seriously look at changing my setup in the light of this photo.

thanks

wilkingj - 11/12/05 at 09:01 AM

Hmm.. Neat Solution.

Marcus - 11/12/05 at 10:20 AM

Wyn,
Call me picky on this one, but would it not be better to have the rose joint on the engine side of the bell crank?
This would take up any of the movement of the engine on its mounts.
I thought long and hard about doing this, but eventually settled on a cable and sector gear arrangement.

Marcus

NS Dev - 11/12/05 at 11:48 AM

Much prefer hydraulic myself, nice concentric arrangement.

More expensive though.

lsdweb - 11/12/05 at 12:05 PM

Hi Marcus

The engine was solid mounted and so there was very little movement. This never caused any problems and was smooth and progressive.

Regards

Wyn