Any ideas what could cause just one brake to bind? Ive read old thread mentioning springs and m/c seals, but that seams to affect both brakes.
As ever, your help is appreciated
been out for a blast just now, but the brakes began to bind worse than usual. Up on a jack, it appears to be the front n/s wheel that is nearly
impossible to turn by hand, whereas the o/s wheel spins a little by itself.
Any ideas what could cause just one brake to bind? Ive read old thread mentioning springs and m/c seals, but that seams to affect both brakes.
As ever, your help is appreciated
Seized calliper seems the most likely ? 
Either the pistons siezing or the sliders depending on the type of caliper.
Concur with the above. Took my Westfield out at Xmas, it hadn't been driven since October. Got 50 metres, touched the brakes.....then spent the next 1 1/2 hours at the bottom of my driveway freeing up 3 wheels with 'stuck' pistons.
First thing to check it is isn't hydrualic locked --- trying pushing back the piston with the nipples open.
bugger. How do i sort a siezed caliper? rebuild or just buy new? Its bog standard cortina stuff.
Caliper repair kit from your local motor factors should do it. Failing that a refurb.
Take the caliper off and remove the dust seal, push piston back in the bore with a G cramp then lubricate it with some brake fluid and push it back out with the brake pedal, not too far though so leave the clamp in place. Do it a few times to free it up then wipe some copaslip round the inside of the bore and put the dust seal back on. I did mine 3 years ago and they haven't stuck since.
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Take the caliper off and remove the dust seal, push piston back in the bore with a G cramp then lubricate it with some brake fluid and push it back out with the brake pedal, not too far though so leave the clamp in place. Do it a few times to free it up then wipe some copaslip round the inside of the bore and put the dust seal back on. I did mine 3 years ago and they haven't stuck since.
Lockheed or Girling make their own red
'grease' for lubricating seals etc.
As BritishTrident posted, check for a collapsed brake hose before buying parts. You would be amazed at how many times that gets over looked.
If you cannot push the piston back using a pair of channel lock pliers open the bleeder and try again. If it goes back with it open you have a
collapsed hose or similar. If the piston still wont move back then your caliper is seized. Also make sure your slides are free. Should be able to
slide them by hand freely. Do not use any petroleum based lubes near rubber. It will swell and rot.
.I've been using this for the last 30 years, just a smear round the top of the bore where the piston comes up to seal against moisture, not as
a lubricant. I've never once had a brake failure, if the seals get that far up the bore you are going to be picking the piston up off the road as
the disk and pads will be missing. Red silicone grease is the one used for brake assembly and is safe to use in contact with seals and not recommended
for metal to metal lubrication
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
had the caliper off today. Seems the outer piston is rather stiff - needs an adjustable wrench and both hands to get it back in. Gonna cycle it a few
times more and then see if its worked! Then onto the rack
how far out can you pump it before it comes out?! 5 pumps of the pedal puts it about 5mm out.
[Edited on 13/2/06 by JoelP]
When i was tring to free my pistons, 5 full pumps would see the piston on the floor !!
must be something different i guess, ive clamped the inside piston so only the outer one moves. I wont try more then! 
not perfect, but much better. Cheers for everyones advice, its been a fun and free morning