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Caliper options
RazMan - 4/11/06 at 09:05 AM

I have a feeling that my middy will need better brakes on the rear (I am using std Sierra atm) so I will be looking for 4 pots with a mechanical handbrake setup.
What are my options?


Syd Bridge - 4/11/06 at 10:19 AM

Reading the Aussie lists, I see them using Volvo brakes on Cortina uprights quite often.

Don't know which ones though.

Cheers,
Syd.


StevieB - 4/11/06 at 04:21 PM

Or, depending on what you want to spend, get the Wilwood Powerlite kit - they do a four pot kit that has a handbrake mechanism (£320 from Rally Design).

[Edited on 4/11/06 by StevieB]


RazMan - 4/11/06 at 04:22 PM

quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
why not keep the sierra brakes, keeping in mind they were meant to stop a car that's weight was a bit more than your middy, i think a lot of people forget how much more stress the OEM components were under in, when used in their ORIGINAL intended position.



I know what you mean but I know of another Aeon that turned the discs blue every time on the track so I reckon some better calipers & discs are a must. A middy needs more on the rear anyway due to the different weight distribution.

quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
Or failing that you could again keep the sierra caliper as handbrake only, and place another four pot caliper at the opposite side of the disc be it placed either front or rear facing, it would be a fairly simple affair to make an new set of brackets, if you know what your doing.


A novel approach but think of the weight.


RazMan - 4/11/06 at 04:33 PM

quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
Or, depending on what you want to spend, get the Wilwood Powerlite kit - they do a four pot kit that has a handbrake mechanism (£320 from Rally Design).

[Edited on 4/11/06 by StevieB]


Excellent - rhey would match my Midilites on the front as well



Gav - 5/11/06 at 10:48 AM

I have a set of these on mine however they are replacement for drums only!

However what i did with my caliper type bearing hubs (they are quite a lot bigger and have bigger bearings) is to machine the taper off the hub so that the supplied braket just about slide over then machine the flange down to get the correct offset so the caliper sits with the disk in the middle, iirc its about 10mm on the drum hub but 16 on the caliper hub but you only need to take it down to about 10/9mm thick as their is no pressure on it from the caliper it should be fine.
Also the supplied disks wont slide over the sierra stub/flange thingy with the wheel studs on so this needs to be machined down so that it will fit inside the disk.

Think that was about it

[Edited on 5/11/06 by Gav]


MikeRJ - 5/11/06 at 06:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by CaLviNx
Hi

just a thought, but why not keep the sierra brakes, keeping in mind they were meant to stop a car that's weight was a bit more than your middy, i think a lot of people forget how much more stress the OEM components were under in, when used in their ORIGINAL intended position.


If his car kept the original sierra engine location I would agree, but a mid engine RWD car requires far more bias to the rear brakes than a front engined car. On my MR2 the rear disks are actualy larger than the fronts.