would give some good acceleration but i think top speed maybe a problem or would you beable to get to 110mph and hit that brick wall that the locost cant go past

5:1 be any better?

its two diff ratios multiplied together, center diff is 1.5:1 and the second diffs will be about 4:1 so 1.5X4=6

does anyone know of any programs that can calculate what your gearing should give you?

Try this

Suitable cec ratio 3.8:1, suitable bec ratio 3.2:1.........................
6:1 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! = 0-40 in 2.8 secs, top speed of about 68mph unless your engine revs to about 15,000

well max speed on public roads is 70mph, ok i'll use a hell of a lot of fuel but who cares, its only temporary until i get a diesel east-west gearbox then it will be more suitable i hope

whatever the speedlimit may be, you dont want to be doing max rpm at 70mph, you will drive yourself mad.

quote:

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Originally posted by goodall
well max speed on public roads is 70mph, ok i'll use a hell of a lot of fuel but who cares, its only temporary until i get a diesel east-west gearbox then it will be more suitable i hope

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i'm going for all wheel drive rather than being the rear wheel drive with ford parts, i'm not woried for top speed as i'l be on R plates for the first year of my driveing and they restrict you to 45mph

I have been on a tarmac rally in an escort forest rally car with a 5.1:1 diff in it, that was "interesting"

the speedo didn't work but calculated max at 10,000 rpm (millington diamond 2.0 engine) was approx 118mph and it got there remarkably quickly!!! (on the isle of mull as well, not exactly large roads!!!)

6:1 will certainly be painfull for road use!!

quote:

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Originally posted by goodall
i'm going for all wheel drive rather than being the rear wheel drive with ford parts,

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dareing to be different is one reason, second i have all the parts already to do it this way and thrid i like awd best

looks like i mite beable to bring it down to 4.9:1 if i cut part of the gearbox houseing, so that may not be so terrible after all

if you count me bringing myself to school then yes i do have kids to bring to school in it

Just interested in what parts you're talking about here? So have you found a conventional transverse setup with only a 1.5 final drive!? Is there anything in particular holding you to the 4:1 front and rear diffs? Something like landrover freelander rear diffs could be used - they are light and only 3.21:1. Maybe a bit pricey, but there might be other stuff. Old bmw 3 series diffs have a huge range of ratios too if i recall...

Liam

Rover sd1 and ford atlas axles both used 3.08:1 cwp's (which are also cheap CWP's cos noone wants them)

You can cut the axle tubes off and turn em into independent diffs pretty easily, seen it done a few times.

the two diff that will be used front and back are spitfire diffs, as for the center diff it will be modified by use of a chain and two sprockets and flipping it left to right and fitting the smallest possible sprocket on the diff and the largest possible sprocket to the output shaft, the best ratio i think i can achieve by doing this with out cutting anything is about 1.5:1 or 3:2. as for buying diff and the like thats probably a no cause its just experimental at this point so i dont want to waste too much money if things go sour.

emm sounds like those maybe useful to know about thanks, always help to keep costs down in case i dont like my creation

p.s i was typing the other reply as you posted

Liam,

read Goodall's other post (a couple of days old) "Spitfire diffs anygood". All will be revealled.

[Edited on 22/1/07 by TL]