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Please check ya nuts / a question I should have asked a long time ago
BenB - 26/2/07 at 10:51 PM

Holy moly that was one exciting blat! Unfortunately too exciting.......

How do you tighten up the nuts on the top and bottom of the upright? When I try to tighten them the bolty bit attached to the wishbone just swivels in the upright? I seem to remember planning on torqueing them up fully once the car was on the floor and the weight was pushing the tapered thingy into the bush. Guess I forgot!!!

Sorry if this makes no sense. I ask 'cos at rather high speed my bottom wishbone decided it no longer wanted to be attached to the upright. Wishbone dug in like a byatch! Much sparkage... New trousers time.... Annoyingly (and rather amazingly) nothing snapped, I found the nut 100m back up the road, and almost managed to get the wishbone thingy back into the upright bush with a large amount of brute force but the silly amount of preload on the front shocks due the my protruding sump meant I couldn't... To make matters worse, the RAC man turned up with a trolley jack but no spanners (and of course I didn't have a 18mm spanner in my collection)..... Ended up putting it on a flatback truck back to my garage after ratchet-strapping the wishbones against each other....

Oh well, Dr Shakey Hand Man got to go and drink some scotch to calm the nerves....


greggors84 - 26/2/07 at 10:57 PM

When tightening the bottom ball joint, try jack it up from underneath the wishbone to push the taper right in the hole, not sure what you can do the for the top one? Are they sierra uprights? One i had got mine in the mushroom inserts they tightened up fine.

RAC man had no spanners! I guess most modern cars on the road can't be fixed with simple spanners anymore!

Maybe join the AA, the man who turned up yesterday did a wonderful botch job on my HT lead!


graememk - 26/2/07 at 10:58 PM

that happend to me on a pre sva shake down in b&q's car park

i was only doing 40 ish and i poo myself


BenB - 26/2/07 at 11:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by graememk
that happend to me on a pre sva shake down in b&q's car park

i was only doing 40 ish and i poo myself


Yup- trousers and boxers in the wash


BenB - 26/2/07 at 11:05 PM

quote:
Originally posted by greggors84
When tightening the bottom ball joint, try jack it up from underneath the wishbone to push the taper right in the hole, not sure what you can do the for the top one? Are they sierra uprights? One i had got mine in the mushroom inserts they tightened up fine.

RAC man had no spanners! I guess most modern cars on the road can't be fixed with simple spanners anymore!

Maybe join the AA, the man who turned up yesterday did a wonderful botch job on my HT lead!


I think what happened is when I made the car that's what I did but I put the chassis on very early so there was only 100kg(ish) pushing the swivel into the bush.... 400kg later (pushing in the opposite direction) and the result was obvious....


wilkingj - 26/2/07 at 11:11 PM

Daft question... You ARE using brand new Nyloc nuts?, or a castellated one with a split pin?

Nylocs should only ever be used once then thrown away.


BenB - 26/2/07 at 11:18 PM

Yup. New lower swivel with new nylock, only ever put on once!!! Might pin it next time!!!


greggors84 - 26/2/07 at 11:44 PM

I had a new nyloc mysteriously come off an engine mount. SVA tester spotted it first. Luckily he 'found' one in the car.

[Edited on 26/2/2007 by greggors84]


bartonp - 27/2/07 at 09:05 AM

You might try some studlock on the taper (NOT threadlock)


Peteff - 27/2/07 at 11:06 AM

Dog it up with a plain nut first to lock it in the taper then put the nyloc on and tighten it again. It spins when the lock part catches on the end thread. Mine had stripped the thread so it wouldn't go back on and I had to leave it overnight on someone's drive. It threw it down overnight and I had to bail it out when I went back with a new joint. The wishbone was saved by the nuts holding the balljoint hitting the road first and grinding down to about half height.


daviep - 27/2/07 at 12:44 PM

Why would you put "studlock" or any other type of retainer on to the taper?

As suggested if you cannot stop the taper turning when putting a nyloc nut on use a plain nut first to seat the taper and then remove it and fit the nyloc and torque it to the correct value.

The two mating faces of the taper should be spotlessly clean and free of oil or grease before fitting. Bolts and studs which are in good condition and torqued to the correct value will not come slack.


NS Dev - 27/2/07 at 01:15 PM

Had the same happen to me driving someone elses Westfield!

Unless I know them I spanner check first now!!!!

Mine was at low speed, and managed to fix it enough to limp back to the garage using a fence post, pliers and scissor jack from a nearby house.


BenB - 27/2/07 at 06:43 PM

Yup. Bolts to tighten first sounds a proper job... I was wondering about the studlock....


les - 6/3/07 at 07:58 PM

jeez!

I was worried about this on mine even before i read that lot!

i only have about 1 turn of thread if that poking out past the nut(tiger avon, cortin a upright)

tiger say this is fine- i dont habve enout thread to drill through and pin it.

the avon book states that you should drill through the whole nut and thread then pin it, anyone think this is a good idea ? / any thoughts?

les


MikeRJ - 6/3/07 at 09:32 PM

quote:
Originally posted by les
the avon book states that you should drill through the whole nut and thread then pin it, anyone think this is a good idea ? / any thoughts?


It's fine, lots of people have passed SVA with nuts locked like this.


coozer - 6/3/07 at 10:24 PM

What sort of torque are we talking about on the nut?

I've tightned mine up to 50lbf so far and intend to put some penetrating loctite on it .