How much pipe am I going to need to do the whole car. I'm running braided flexy throughout so need to get a estimate on how much i'll need
to the nearest meter.
Also need an idea of what fittings i'll need for the Sierra master cylinder, front calipers and rear drums.
Thanks
Simon
[Edited on 13/8/07 by SyKaTurbo]
Far easier, neater to use 3/16" Kunnifer at least between the master and the T fittings.
To avoid confusion the convention is
pipe = ridgid
hose=flexible
I hate the look of bent copper pipe run down the chassis. I can't be bothered trying to get them straight and neat throughout.
Plus i can get the braided through work.
Thanks for clearing up the terminology.
Braided is much easier, more resilient to knocks & scrapes too imo
i can get approx lengths you require if needed, just need to pop round my mates as he has just done the lines in his Indy
If it's not too much trouble yes, i'd appreciate it 
will sort it before your kit comes in 3 weeks.
Braided is great for bits that need to flex, but if you use if for the whole system it will never give you as good a pedal as proper copper/kunifer
pipes would.
My dad had an MG Midget from a historic race series in his garage recently, suffering from a spongy pedal, no matter how much it was bled. He
stripped out the miles of aeroquip and fitted kunifer pipe in place of it (apart from the required flexi bits of course). After the next outing the
owner reported that brakes were transformed, nice solid confidence inspiring pedal.
Personally I haven't found any spongyness with my braided hoses. I have got them from m/c to caliper and after bleeding they are rock hard - you really can't tell the difference. Mine are Goodriche items if that makes any difference.
I found a 10m roll of cupro nickel was just about right. I think that it was about £12 on ebay
quote:
Originally posted by SyKaTurbo
............ I can't be bothered trying to get them straight and neat throughout.......
Getting brake straight is easy you just uncoil and swat it down on on a flat surface like work bench or a the floor.
Like wise neat bends are easy with the proper tool.
It all looks neat especially if you use proper pop-in brake pipe clips.
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
quote:
Originally posted by SyKaTurbo
............ I can't be bothered trying to get them straight and neat throughout.......
I'm not sure that kind of attitude will help you build a car to be proud of...or even get it finished.....
If running brake pipes neatly is going to be too much of a task I fear you are in for a loooooong build....
Don't get me wrong I'm not Mr Super-Perfection.....but I can see you struggling to be honest....
Just my opinion....
[Edited on 13/8/07 by Alan B]
No need to get stroppy. Youhave to admit that "I can't be bothered" dosen't exactly give the greatest impression.
I don't quite understand why you think you will have copper pipe all over the show? Surely it will all be routed down the transmission tunnel so
you won't actualy see it at at all unless you lift the bonnet or are working under the car?
I'm not stroppy. I just have no tollerance for gobby knobbers! (as were all expressing our opinions)
Yet another total irrelevant post about how I wish to build MY car!
[Edited on 14/8/07 by SyKaTurbo]
So true...you can and will build what you like....
Gobby Knobber huh?....never been called that before...LOL..people who do know me will probably laugh too....
Let's hope MR SVA man CAN be bothered to give you a pass.....
LOL
If you don't need advice then don't ask!!! 
What Alan said is quite right, running brake lines neatly took me a couple of hours including flaring them etc. Many other bits of the build were MUCH
more frustrating!!!!!!
Ps Over the years I have built (and am building) a fairly large number of competition cars, and none of them has used braided throughout.
One reason is it makes any welding repairs a pain. You have to completely cover the pipe as spatter sticks to it and bursts it.......learnt from
experience (very fortunately just before scrutineering not on stage!!! )
[Edited on 14/8/07 by NS Dev]
if i had the braided gear at home then id be tempted but going the Kunifer route meant the pipes were routed where i wanted them and terminated at the right place. i would hev been gutted if i couldnt complete the job because a hose was just too short or a bit long to be neat. There wont be that much on show to be honest. Maybe just run the front to back lengths in copper down the tunnel and the more visible lengths in braided as an alternative idea. Where they exit the tunnel at the back you can terminate at the T piece and then run braided to the calipers / drums (which is what i have done. i guess the fronts can be fully braided from the MC if thats what you want to do. You will be able to lose any extra lengths easier that way.
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
So true...you can and will build what you like....
Gobby Knobber huh?....never been called that before...LOL..people who do know me will probably laugh too....
Let's hope MR SVA man CAN be bothered to give you a pass.....
quote:
Originally posted by skydivepaul
quote:
Originally posted by Alan B
So true...you can and will build what you like....
Gobby Knobber huh?....never been called that before...LOL..people who do know me will probably laugh too....
Let's hope MR SVA man CAN be bothered to give you a pass.....
gobby knobber...................very funny