What's the general consensus if I want to increase my rear by about 20mm each side?

I know about the hubcentric thingies, but even at the mo, my alloys don't sit on the teeny weeny flange that the drums have.

I was thinking about the cheaper spacer and longer wheel stud ones.

Axle is the English variety.

Pat...

Hi Pat

I have clearance issues on my unusual rear calipers. Spacers are therefore a necessary evil!

TC

Pat
i would rcommend you get your wheels the sit on the hubs, seen broken wheel studs caused by this problem.
What about some different offset wheels to widen the track.
Are you using escort offset wheels et18 or similar so you could go to et0 to get your 20mm ish

I had two studs break so would not advice, get wheel to fit direct on hubs.

Hi,

I'm keeping the Escort wheels!

Pat...

So looks like I'm staying as I am as well then.

Pat...

Oh sh*t!

??

Porsche uses them?
So why did the studs break?

Also there are different spacers.

I'm only looking for 12mm. I don't really have a choice.

I have used spacers in the past, for various reasons. Always good quality ones, made for purpose, not the slotted universal fit things. Used 1" ones on one motor, and have never had a problem with them, no brocken studs at least. They do tend to put extra load on the wheel bearings, as your putting the load further out on the axle. But I havn't ever had to fit new bearings, maybe just didn't keep the cars long enough. HTH Ray

Ditto. 20mm spacers each side at the rear but specific ones that fit the centre rim of the hub, provide a centre rim for the wheel, bolt to the existing studs and then provide new studs for the wheel to bolt to - Very strong with the only downside as Ray pointed out.

i'm almost sure forgales in heckmondwike (by ponderosa) said they could turn up wheel spacers. just get the centre bore of your hub and the centre bore of your wheels and necessary clearances.

if they won't do it now, they can definitely do you the bar stock and maybe martin would turn them up for you?

it has to be spacers as far as i can see if you want to keep the wheels.
tom

Nothing wrong with the cheap slotted type in my opinion.

I would be very gratefull if somebody could enlighten me as to how they can cause wheel studs to shear?

Cheers
Davie

I used 1" ones on the rear of my old Tiger which i had for 6 years with never a problem. Understand they put extra stress on the bearings but in a car thats half (or less) than the donor vehicle that the bearings were designed for then is this an issue??
Would certainly use properly designed ones machined to ensure the wheel is perfectly centred, in preference to the universal slotted ones, like the ones here http://www.performancealloys.com/alloy_wheel_spacers.asp.

Damned site cheaper than new wheels arent they!!

Hubcentric are a must if you go over 10mm imo. The extra support from the hub ensures that you get the wheel absolutely central (ensuring good wheel balance) and also takes the shear forces away from the studs.

I have 20mm hubcentric spacers on the back - no problems in 8k miles but they do add a fair bit of weight as they are solid steel.

Hi the ones from raldes are good.
And available up to 1"/25mm as this is the max allowed by MSA governed regs.

Club level race and rally cars have been using these for many many thousands of miles whith out problems. But yes you do need to take some care with keeping the wheel centered.

cheers matt

definately hubcentric.

Ive had problems with even the 5mm cheapies. serious wheel wobble as they arent 100% centred.

the wheel bolts are there to keep the wheel mated to the hub face, if you remove the hub lip (by fitting spacers with no lip) then the wheel bolts are also taking the weight of the wheel and every shock up through the wheel too. If you have a lip then this takes all the abuse.

I had to fit them to my M3 to clear coilovers and they were perfect even on track. 15mm hubcentric.

www.wheel-spacers.co.uk do them at a good price.

ford 4stud type 10 (bolt to hub then wheels bolt to spacer) £45 a pair. you get all the bolts etc too.

is removing a 20 mm strip from the rear wheel arches not an option?

(and keep away from the Carlos Fandango ones)

Minor Hijack Alert

If anyone has any hubcentric Ford 6-10mm spacers I would like to hear from you

.... carry on

I dont think there is enough metal on <10mm spacers to make them hubcentric.

smallest Ive ever seen were 10mm

k ford autos kingswinford
i got 4 Hubcentric 25mm spacers from them for my saxo. with bolts for 50 pounds and to use them on my mk2 escort i just changed the plastic ring bit in the middle. they have been on about a year and no probs with them. and i kill the crap out of it lol. ive got 4/10mm and 4/5mm spaces i dont need if your after some.
adam

quote:

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Originally posted by TimC
Hi Pat

I have clearance issues on my unusual rear calipers. Spacers are therefore a necessary evil!

TC

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quote:

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Originally posted by 02GF74
is removing a 20 mm strip from the rear wheel arches not an option?

(and keep away from the Carlos Fandango ones)

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Okay so far nobody has explained how slotted spacers can cause a wheel stud to shear!

quote:

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Originally posted by daviep
Okay so far nobody has explained how slotted spacers can cause a wheel stud to shear!

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quote:

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Originally posted by 2b_pablo
the wheel bolts are there to keep the wheel mated to the hub face, if you remove the hub lip (by fitting spacers with no lip) then the wheel bolts are also taking the weight of the wheel and every shock up through the wheel too. If you have a lip then this takes all the abuse.

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quote:

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Originally posted by daviep
Okay so far nobody has explained how slotted spacers can cause a wheel stud to shear!

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quote:

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Originally posted by RazMan
The extra support from the hub ensures that you get the wheel absolutely central (ensuring good wheel balance) and also takes the shear forces away from the studs.

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quote:

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Originally posted by Avoneer

It's not about asthetics - my wheels & tyres are damn close to the bolts holding the trailing arms, as I found out on Saturday at Elvington.

Pat...

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Chris - did you get some "rubbage" from the front bolts that hold the trailing arms?

If so, that would make me feel a whole lot better knowing it was more of a design floor than something i've done or used.

Pat...

Yep I managed to "polish" the front bolts which are right in line with the edge of a 205/60 13 tyre on mine. With a 185 I didnt have an issue because the tyre wasnt quite wide and big enough to touch them when flexing.

Wheel studs should never be in a sheer situation if they are tightened to the correct torque. I can't think of the correct terminology but what I'm getting at is that the wheel studs only hold the wheel against hub. They don't drive the wheel (think of knock on wheels) and they don't support the weight of the car either. All these forces are transmitted by the friction between the wheel and the hub not by the bolts.

Has anybody experienced wheel bolts shearing when they have been tightened to the correct torque every time?

I wonder how common this is on live axle track days as I've never heard it mentioned and it could have saved me an A048!

Looks like my bushing wasn't to blame after all.

Gonna start a new thread and see how common it is and probably get a 5-10mm spacer.

Cheers,

Pat...

Ah that's a pain, yours was a bit worse than mine then, which only just brushed it and didnt damage the tyre other than a minor rub mark on the edge of the sidewall akin to a minor curbing incident.

I can only imagine that the 48's didn't help either as they are so damn sticky, the chassis must have been moving on the corners and the wheels not!

Pat...

quote:

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Originally posted by daviep
Wheel studs should never be in a sheer situation if they are tightened to the correct torque.

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Unless you've got slack in the panhard rod then it shouldnt move Pat, maybe a couple of mm with the flex in the bush I guess but not a lot. I think its more tyre flex than anything else though.

Yeah - I was just over exagerating.

With my tyres down at 16psi, I can imagine how much they could flex on hard cornering.

Pat...

I guess in theory by the time the tyre is back round to that point it shouldnt be flexing that much (ie most flex will be at the 6-o-clock position where it touches the road, probably no flex at 12-o-clock), but having seen photos of how much tyres flex its going to have an effect most of the way around the tyre to some degree or other.

Chris

Just a thought - you could maybe fit some of these to steady your universal spacers. This would at least centralise them as long as the OD fits the spacer's bore size.