It means adding 50mm to my track - making it 1550mm disc face to face...
Would be interested to hear comments, both on the engineering feasibility and also if this is a reasonable track width still?
Can anyone comment on the sanity of moving my rear bike engine to center by adding a centric 50mm spacer to one side of the diff?
It means adding 50mm to my track - making it 1550mm disc face to face...
Would be interested to hear comments, both on the engineering feasibility and also if this is a reasonable track width still?
Wouldn't a longer driveshaft be a better option, or have I missed something? Can't see why a spacer wouldn't work though.
purely through ease of build, I'm not sure i like the idea of cut and shut driveshafts...
Try: http://www.berrisford.co.uk/page_info.php?pages_id=6&pages_name=Driveshaft%20Information&osCsid=ao6eaq5s6vq5rdahmblomdpgc7
They made a pair of driveshafts from a mock-up I made from the car shafts prices start from £80 each and unbreakable from £160.
Personally I wouldn't cut n shut a driveshaft, although many do.
GB Engineering made mine up from a sketch and were very quick and reasonable.
OK, assuming I do that, what's the ideal track for a seven sized car? 
That's like asking what the ideal compression ratio is for an engine 
Track is a ratio based upon wheel base, 1.63 from memory, summit like that.
So how long is your wheelbase going to be ?
Regards Mark
That's just the best aesthetic ratio though isn't it? ie why a Caterham looks somehow 'right' compared to most other 7alikes.
Having said that I'm quite fond of the 'if it looks right it is right' school of engineering
I doubt your Bike engine will have enough torque to break it as long as you don't repeatedly clutch dump it...
What type of alloy to use? T6061?
Will it be less expensive to machine that part rather than just have a 1/2 shaft made to order?
G.
We're using the "unbreakable" driveshafts on a Radical Clubsport with a 200BHP Hayabusa, LSD, slicks and full aero downforce. So they've had plenty of abuse inculding many standing starts and no issues yet. Though we've broken one gearbox and one clutch so far.
Yes, cost wise I'm looking at about £20 instead of £80
The spacer will put more overhung load on the stub shaft and support bearings in the diff.
You wil probably get away with it, but you should ensure that the locating diameters at each end of the spacer have good concentricity to minimise out
of balance forces caused by any run-out.
Mal
my kitten has cut n shut shafts on it and no problems so far, i doubt a bike engine can trouble a properly sleeved drive shaft as they are all pretty low weight and will spin the wheel well before any seroius load goes through the shaft
the company we use at work said that they can respline shafts. so iam taking mine to get them done ill let you no how much they cost me when there
done. ive had the same prob getting shafts done at a cheap price i was quoted over 200 per side. but this place iam looking at 30--50 per side and
they will be a lot stronger being resplined.
adam
quote:
Originally posted by oadamo
the company we use at work said that they can respline shafts. so iam taking mine to get them done ill let you no how much they cost me when there done. ive had the same prob getting shafts done at a cheap price i was quoted over 200 per side. but this place iam looking at 30--50 per side and they will be a lot stronger being resplined.
adam
berrisford no longer do the 'cheap' 80 quid shafts, they're 160 or nothing.
I've found a bloke (via Bob on here) that will do them for about 60 quid a side. Dave Mac (dave mac propshafts) will make new shafts or friction
weld old shafts. The friction welds are good for 200bhp in a production car (he pointed out its how Audi make the drive shafts).
I see no problem with the suggestion of the spacer
Cheers
Fred W B
Only valid reason for centering the engine is to move the CG --- and moving the engine two inches isn't going to move the cg much. Unequal
length drive shafts don't matter on the rear -- no torque steer effects.
If you do use a spacer take great car with the bolts --- the tightening tension (ie torque) will be critical.
[Edited on 23/7/08 by britishtrident]
quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
berrisford no longer do the 'cheap' 80 quid shafts, they're 160 or nothing.
I've found a bloke (via Bob on here) that will do them for about 60 quid a side. Dave Mac (dave mac propshafts) will make new shafts or friction weld old shafts. The friction welds are good for 200bhp in a production car (he pointed out its how Audi make the drive shafts).
quote:
Originally posted by bimbleuk
We're using the "unbreakable" driveshafts on a Radical Clubsport with a 200BHP Hayabusa, LSD, slicks and full aero downforce. So they've had plenty of abuse inculding many standing starts and no issues yet. Though we've broken one gearbox and one clutch so far.