It is ludicrous that no welding at all is allowed no steering arms. So much so im not sure it isnt an urban legend.
lot of supposing there
[Edited on 30/12/07 by JoelP]
I'd planned to use rod ends for my steering but am worried that there may be some slop when using a standard rod end and bolt. Normal cars use
track rod ends with a taper that fits to the steering arm. The taper, when tightened will have no slop.
Am I worrying about nothing or am I better changing to normal track rod ends?
my opinion is it wouldnt be a problem, id drill the hub steering taper straight, bolt it all up tight with a spacer.
If the upright has a tapered hole, then I don't think that you have any choice, other than to use the corresponding part, unless you can machine
tapered washers to pack the bolt out.
[Edited on 30/12/2007 by nitram38]
I can't understand the obsession with rose joints, their weak, expensive, most aren’t even sealed properly and last no time at all. Normal track rods should last at least 60k and have no slop, so what's the point in replacing them?
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I can't understand the obsession with rose joints, their weak, expensive, most aren’t even sealed properly and last no time at all. Normal track rods should last at least 60k and have no slop, so what's the point in replacing them?
The point is that I'm not using the donor's steering rack or track rods. I plan to make my own "track rods" using 1" tube
and weld in threaded inserts. I'm not using them out of any belief that they're better.
track rod ends, being female, would make it harder for me to make up some track rods, without having access to a lathe.
I have rod ends on the F1-2 and I have done 1500 miles on them with no problems. I am also using them on the MotaLeira.
They tend to be lighter so are used on race cars.
A lot of people are driving cars that are half the weight of the original car that the ball joints were designed for, so if you are building a bec,
where every ounce counts, then rod ends do help your weight loss program!
I have driven cars with both options and I do think that you get more driver feedback through a car that uses rod ends, but the car feels a bit more
harsh over bumps.
[Edited on 30/12/2007 by nitram38]
quote:
Originally posted by nitram38
If the upright has a tapered hole, then I don't think that you have any choice, other than to use the corresponding part, unless you can machine tapered washers to pack the bolt out.
[Edited on 30/12/2007 by nitram38]
Then you should use rod ends if it makes your life easier.
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
The point is that I'm not using the donor's steering rack or track rods. I plan to make my own "track rods" using 1" tube and weld in threaded inserts. I'm not using them out of any belief that they're better.
track rod ends, being female, would make it harder for me to make up some track rods, without having access to a lathe.
I have seen an adaptor to fit Cortina steering arms to take rod ends somewhere? Possibly Rally Design?
I don't think that he is cutting and shutting track rod ends but making a purpose made threaded insert. So I don't expect the sva man will
bat an eyelid.
As to the 4-5K rod end change, how many miles have you done in your car Mr Whippy?
I doubt you will do that many miles in 5 years on most of these cars!
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Whippy
I don't think your allowed to weld up track rod arms, rather the sva guy would expect the tubes to be threaded instead. You don't need a lathe to thread that, do it by hand easy.
Ford MK1,2 Cortina, Corsair, Anglia, Classic, Zeph Zody MK1,2 all had male threads on the rod end. Both left and right had threads available as they were recirculating ball steering, with 2 rod ends per track rod. 1/2" UNF if memory serves me correct.
you'd be looking at something like 16mmx2mm thickness to tap to half inch i think, which isnt bad i suppose - better than using solid bar i
suppose!
It is ludicrous that no welding at all is allowed no steering arms. So much so im not sure it isnt an urban legend.
lot of supposing there
[Edited on 30/12/07 by JoelP]
5/8" OD (15.875mm) x .083" wall (2.1mm) is just about right for tapping 1/2" UNF threads. 16mm OD with 2.3mm wall would be perfect, if
such a thing exists.
Male track rod ends sound good. I'd need bigger tubes and taps though.
quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
Ford MK1,2 Cortina, Corsair, Anglia, Classic, Zeph Zody MK1,2 all had male threads on the rod end. Both left and right had threads available as they were recirculating ball steering, with 2 rod ends per track rod. 1/2" UNF if memory serves me correct.
9/16 UNEF then, you're probably right, might even have a set of taps kicking about somewhere.....
Just a thought - make a sleeve with tapered outside & plain inner. Then saw it in half with a hacksaw. When you tighten the bolt thru the eye of
the rosejoint it will push the taper into the tapered hole, gripping & locating PERFECTLY.
Easy if you have a lathe....
Bob
quote:
Originally posted by smart51
track rod ends, being female, would make it harder for me to make up some track rods, without having access to a lathe.
I suspect you are making problems for yourself.
A Mk 1 Escort steering rack will do the job
Most british cars under 1500 cc (such as Escort, Viva, Avenger, Spitfire) made in the 1960s/70s used the same thread size and taper as the Mini tre.
Joel , welding is not allowed on track rods as far as M.O.T. is concerned even signs of excessive heat is a failure. Welding is allowed on wishbones IF it is part of the manufacturing process.